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#61 piglet1

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Posted 14 October 2017 - 11:26 AM

No rags in the intake pipework then?

 

I'm not sure how helpful it'd be, but I'm planning to be in Shrewsbury this evening (here... https://www.theredba...rewsbury.co.uk/) so if you want to borrow my OBD2 scanner (a D900 with real-time data display mode) then PM me so we can exchange mobile numbers and agree when to meet in the car park there.

Thanks Jon  no there is no rags I put one in the down pipe so when I sprayed de greaser and water it didn't go down the pipe but iv taken the down pipe off and no change  (I was clutching at straws trying that lol) 



#62 trolleyjack

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Posted 15 October 2017 - 11:28 AM

​It's choking back badly in the video, I would check the simple things first

 1 Make sure the fuel pipes flow from tank / filter to fuel pump have not been reversed.

 2 ​Give the MAF sensor a clean with contact cleaner.

​ 3 Try running with the small black cylindrical filter removed from the EGR solenoid valve thats on the rocker cover, and check it's pipework for splits.Also all of the small gauge pipework that runs from this component ,to the one at the back of rocker cover which is the turbo vaccum line.

​4 Check for loss of pressure from fuel rail by disconnecting black fuel return pipe from pressure check valve, if it leaks any at all, it needs replacement.

​(usually this is associated with non starting at all, but may also be a cause of lower rail pressure at higher revs.) easy enough to check anyway.

​It may well be electrical, but  not my strong suit.

​Hope you get it sorted it's a very irritating fault after all the work that has gone into replacing the engine.

​TJ



#63 piglet1

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Posted 15 October 2017 - 07:24 PM

All of them have been tried mate if you could see the exhaust as well it looks like it’s overfueling

#64 trolleyjack

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Posted 16 October 2017 - 09:39 PM

​The only other thing I would suggest to try that ( I ended up replacing mine due to fuel pressure timing problems ) was the pressure regulator actuator on the HP pump body itself ,air filter side after that it would be down to electronics for me,although there would be a specific code being thrown up for it ( Jon G has athread on here somewhere about it ).I have no idea what the effects of it being stuck open would be ,certainly over fueling pressure which should be checked by the rail pressure relief valve, but who knows it's a Honda engine with German components.

​Hope you crack it.

 

T.J.​


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#65 piglet1

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Posted 30 October 2017 - 01:16 PM

Well guys after a lot of advice and searching I have finally fixed the problem after checking and changing all parts that where suggested to me I had a stab in the dark and changed the crank position sensor after it struggled to start when it was hot (after changing the hpp first ) and low and behold it cured the running issue so thats all sorted now it still struggles to start when hot so I'm going to put my original hpp back on and try it if not ill do a new leak test on the pressure switch in the rail while its hot and see a massive thanks to every one that suggested a possible cause to the running issue especially Fahad & Jon_G you guys have been amazing and a great help and font of knowledge 


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#66 Jon_G

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Posted 30 October 2017 - 03:25 PM

Well done for sticking with it after we'd run out of ideas! You were unlucky not to get a diagnostic trouble code (and I don't understand why not).

 

Hot starting problems might just be the fuel rail over-pressure valve but, seeing as how you've already checked it cold and it was OK, then I'd also check the injectors leak back flows.


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#67 piglet1

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Posted 30 October 2017 - 05:34 PM

iv re checked the pressure valve when its hot and still not a drop so I'm going to swop pumps over to my original one again and see as the hot  starting has only been since running this pump I think 



#68 F6HAD

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Posted 30 October 2017 - 05:47 PM

Really glad you solved it Kev, and another to add to our knowledge base 👍
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