Menu
What's new
By:
Advanced search...

Vibrations

Jan Accord

Jan Accord

Members
Messages
539
Reaction score
158
Location
Slovenia
Car
Honda Accord CN1
Hi guys

Hope you are doing well

I have a problem with vibrations which are more noticable the first few kilometers.
It's hard to tell from where is coming this vibration but the feel is like the driveshaft os on the way out...just for reference
I will list the parts i changed till now which could cause this issue, so we can exclude some of the options and make the search easyier.
-Lower ball joints ( Febi Bilstein )
-Drive shafts ( BluePrint )
-Springs ( H&R )
-Sway bars ( H&R )
-Sway bar bushings ( H&R )
-Sway bar links ( Febi Bilstein )
-Inner tie rods ( Febi Bilstein )
-Outer tie rod ends ( Febi Bilstein )
-Brake discs ( Ferodo )

I don't know why but i'm in dubt about the wheel hub's ??

Thanks for any input

Jan
 
It'll be drive shafts most likely. How many miles/KMs has the car done?

To rule out any potentially cheaper solutions, check wheel balancing and for bulges on the tyres.
 
Like said I would rule out tyres swap around also wheel alignment and balancing, but did read somewhere about blueprint driveshafts failing prematurely.

Sent from my LG-K100 using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for the input guys.

I chaged again the driveshafts to old OEM ones ( just cleaned and re-greased them ) but this is not a solution.
The wheels and tyres were balanced cca 5.000km ago.
Last year with other wheels and tyres was the same story soi dubt about balancing.
The vibration is most noticeble from 60-100 km/h.

Edit: Wheel aligment was done 2 days ago
e0dd0eb8071b1502e6432f69cacb40fc.jpg
 
No use. New shafts, or shafts the categorically know are ok. Second hand OEM shafts could still be warped. Not visible to the naked eye, but enough to cause vibration. The CV joint and shaft are one unit on these cars, so it could also be something in the CV joint itself.

Remember, drive shaft issues are very common on these, so even second hand shafts could be bad. I replaced a snapped drive shaft with blueprints. They lasted 18 months. I've since replaced with Insane Shafts and the difference is great. Not only did it eliminate the wobble, but it's so smooth and refined in comparison. They're uprated and can support unto 500BHP output from the engine, should I wish to turbo/supercharge. And they're cheaper than new OEM replacements.
 
It is commonly the inside tripod joint on the L/H side that fails and causes vibration.
Genuine is about €250 but I think it may be worth buying just that part from Honda as spurious seem to not last very long at all.
Shaftec I don't know about, Blueprint seemingly cheap and not good. Other options like Insane may be good but not made for the I-CTDI.
Mine vibrates at around 60-75 and seems to be getting worse.
Its the same part number for the Acura TSX sold in the US. Mine has 156k miles on the clock now so the originals have done good service.
 
I forget to mention...sory
The driveshaft's are the ones from the car and they were changed because i noticed some vibrations. When mounted the BluePrint driveshaft's the efect was like having a cement mixer on the steering wheel so i returned them to the seller and re-greased my old ones and mounted again.

The Insane ones are for petrol models from what i know so this is not an option for me. It's a 2.2 i-CTDI
 
My options in order of cost:

New L/H tripod joint Honda 44310TL0G22

New L/H driveshaft Honda

I don't think it is worthwhile buying spurious driveshafts they just aren't reliable enough quality.
Some may be good but lots of others are not and the cost is not insignificant.

As you can see the cost of that joint is substantial.
 
As first i will wait the new driveshafts to come back. I already paid the BluePrint ones so i don't have anything to loose
 
I bought a blueprint clutch master cylinder failed after 8 months had a another sent under warranty which usually are repired unit second one lasted 5 months could have got another one but instead I went k tuned clutch master and slave cylinder feels much better and quicker.

Sent from my LG-K100 using Tapatalk
 
I have used J &R shafts before, cheap yes but not really the kind of quality that the accord needs, these are very sensitive to balancing.
Shaftec seem OK but the price differential isn't that great.
I'd much rather just buy the L/H inside joint as that is seemingly the one that gives the most trouble.
 
Yesterday i noticed that at high speed when braking the things get much worse.
Much worse...so i dubt about the driveshafts at this moment.
Those days i will measure the hubs with the comparator and let you know
 
Any news on this problem, I have cross referenced the inside joint with an Acura Part, available from the US a bit cheaper but may have to pay more tax and duty.
the inner joint here is 202 +vat
 
I changed both my driveshafts for shaftec and they have been great! I've done over 50k miles with them, still going fine! Recommended and not too expensive, £160 for the pair.
 
Heard good stuff about shaftec thanks for update

Sent from my LG-K100 using Tapatalk
 
I have thesame. The judder appears at certain speeds and going on a steady cruise or slight acceleration (225000 km / 1450000 mls)
On full load no jerk/judder, below 50 mph and above 90mph also no judder.
Feels like shafts, steer goes slightly from left/right. Had thesame on 4th gen Civic and CRX, always came down to inner joints!
So the Shaftec' are good?

Rcecently done:
Wheels balanced and 4 wheel alignment on Hunter machine (big difference!)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top