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Clutch Help

S

Swallow

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Location
South west
Car
Accord mk7 ctdi ex
Hi All - back again - Hoping greater minds than mine can diagnose something...

2007 Tourer Diesel 130k - clutch pedal had intermittently been a little slow to return, only once in a while. However yesterday after half an hours driving, depressed the clutch pedal and it stayed on the floor. I pulled the pedal back up with my foot and normal service resumed. Completed a further 15 miles no issues.

Fluid hasn't dropped.

Is the most likely culprit for this a failed/failing Clutch master cylinder? Or can anyone advise differently?

Enquired with local dealership parts dept who said they sell a fair few master cylinders but very rarely sell a slave cylinder (that might be down to their pricing though).

If it is the master, can anyone point me in the direction of a decent how-to??

Thanks in advance as always, T
 
If you don't know it's best to pay a garage for a diagnosis instead of risking wasting money replacing healthy parts.
 
Most likely I would look around master cylinder for any leaking brake fluid around triangle plate also get someone to press clutch and see if there is movement also the clutch pedal can crack as well, common failures on accord are clutch pedal crack and failed master cylinder, I fitted the k tuned clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder much better in my opinion as had blueprint one let me down after 8 months

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Thanks Saj, im picking up a Pagid master cylinder this morning from eurocarparts as further research points to this being the best place to start. Looks like an awkward job unless I can remove the hard lines in situ?

Did you replace your hard line to slave with braided hose? Thinking it would be easier to replace master AND slave and use flexible, would make bleeding very easy

Can't seem to find any good how-to guides online..
 
The reason I went k tuned was because of this:

all have a known issue with their factory clutch master cylinders (CMC). If you look at the CMC on these cars more closely, you'll notice that all of these models have a triangular shaped feedback plate positioned at the very end of the cylinder.

The k tuned one has braided hose and is easy to bleed although you will have to replace slave I did both within a hour.

To replace is not hard but fiddly two bolts on master cylinder, you will have to remove air mixer to get access to remove one of these bolts the air mixer has one connector and three gold screws, then remove clutch position sensors by loosening nut disconnect connector and unscrew out there may be 1 or 2 of these depending on model, then one bolt on top, remove cotter pin and pedal will pop out, on master cylinder you will have to remove u pin to remove, the reservoir unclips, be careful removing u clip you will have to re use to fit line when refitting ensure you do not damage o ring.

Also check clutch pedal has no crack on joints after removal.

Now the tough part is to bleed I recommend using a vacuum bleed and here is procedure remove slave cylinder two bolts will be easier with battey and air box out. Then bleed master cylinder by opening slave cylinder bleed valve after all air is out then push and hold in slave and bleed making sure reservoir does not go dry close valve and refit.

To adjust clutch pedal position you will have to move the locknut arm in or out then install cotter pin I would adjust and test before placing pin.


The reason I went for k tuned although it cost me £250 was because I removed whole line and fitted braided with slave cylinder was a doddle to bleed. Also after doing job twice I did not want to do a third time.

Keep us posted with your findings hope this helps

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Looked at pagid master cylinder and looks solid as they have also removed triangle restrictor plate which is the culprit of all problems so unless you also have a cracked pedal which I did you should be good to go.

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Cheers all - Jon, thanks for those links - picking up CMC this morning and a Gunson's bleeder & fresh fluid - will give it a go this afternoon/tomorrow - just got to coax the car into a 200 mile trip first that is necessary!!

Wish me luck
 
Jesus wept - the top12mm nut on the cabin side of the CMC is absolutely impossible to get to!!!!

Any tips other than outlined in the linked thread above would be very helpful
 
It might be a radiator-out job.

Let's hope that at the end it doesn't turn out to be the slave cylinder....
 
I've just sacrificed and cut down an old 12mm spanner, to be three inches long. Can successfully get this over the 12mm nut at an angle that gives some potential for movement. But being so short I can't budge it when contorted in the footwell. Next up I think I will put a notch in the side of this shortened spanner at the base & fix some tough twine to it - should then be able to pull hard on this to shift the nut.

I would love to see the Honda factory tool for this job!

Out of time for now as have to go out (in the Accord!!) - To Be Continued tomorrow morning (If I'm not stranded hours from home in the meantime)

Thanks all for help, T
 
Would a 12mm crowfoot open end work?
 
shortness is key - got a swn necked ring spanner onto it but that's from a new set & am not prepared to butcher that!! Early start tomorrow at first light, it will not beat me.

Car performed fine Oxford - Birminham - Oxford just now changing 1st - 3rd - 6th to minimise master cylinder usage..
 
Did you remove air mixer on left after that use a socket set to remove nut, I have done three times so will pm you

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Righto - thanks to Saj's excellent advice, have got old cmc out and replaced with new, all back together
Now - the ezibleed kit I bought (Gunson) has no lid that will fit the honda master cylinder!

Looking at it - with the slave still in the original positition, would it not be easier to reverse bleed the clutch system? IE pumping in fluid from the slave end up to the reservoir?

Does anyone have any bright ideas or tips?? I'm so close...
 
I'm worried that reverse bleeding might cause seals to 'flip'.

A vacuum bleeder is far easier and safer, in my opinion. Or get an ***istant to help you bleed the system in the traditional manner.
 
Cracked it - connected the ezeebleed straight to the tube from the reservoir - flushed system with fresh fluid at 10psi. After closing the slave bleed nipple, I whipped the ezeebleed off and connected the reservoir, topped it off, then "burped" any air out of the tube between reservoir & cmc - luckily gravity worked in my favour in this stage.

Car works fine, clutch feel is just as it has always been. Very many thanks to the author of the linked guide above and also to Saj for the tips that really helped.

What I have learned to add to the above - you MUST remove the air mixer mechanism to the left of the clutch pedal to access the tricky nut & when trying to undo siad nut, a 1/2 inch 12mm socket/extension combo is all you can get in there - don't bother trying to use a 3/4 inch set as you really do need the thinner shaft of the smaller sized socket extension.
 
Great glad you finally got sorted no problem buddy have experience In doing this did you check clutch pedal was it all ok they tend to tear apart on left side.

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Didn't see anything amiss with the clutch pedal thankfully - but will go back and give it a proper once over, once my back has recovered...
 
Oh ek, I just bought a 2,2 estate privately drove fine through traffic for twenty miles then suddenly the clutch pedal went soft and stayed increasingly down eventually impossible to change gear. I limped to a car park, nothing wrong with levels and it righted itself. Have tried to replicate on drive but works fine. The reason I am worried it that the slave and master looks new, or do they just not get dirty?, and there looks like spilt clutch fluid on a pipe nearby. So I wonder they have tried to fix but passed it on to a mug like me ha ha.Is it possible they didnt bleed it well, or could it be a sign of something worse to come?
 
Ok here goes could be a number of things, faulty clutch master cylinder, faulty slave cylinder and cracked clutch pedal, check fluid and see if colour is clean also you can have someone operate clutch pedal and see if slave cylinder is working correctly, from past experience if you have an original or similar master cylinder with triangular plate they leak at seal.

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Same thing happened to me, clutch kept getting stuck on the floor, ended up changing the clutch which sorted it and might be a good idea to change flywheel if you intend on keeping the car, bit costly though but sorted it.
 
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