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Brake Calliper - Rear

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accord1108

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Eire
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Ex 2.2 i-Dtec
Hello all and happy new year.

I have a sticking rear caliper, i previously replaced seals and pistons, however the problem is back again, (less than one year) the piston is corroded at one point. I will admit i didn't use a genuine Honda piston, whether or not this is the reason for failure or not, i dont know.

At the minute i am thinking of replacing the caliper rather than fitting a new piston and seals.

Do you know can refurbished units be purchased?

NISIN 10CL-15SN is the part number off the caliper
 
Do a forum search for 'big red'. I've not used them myself, but nobody seems to have a bad word to say about them.
 
I had the same with my 8th gen and got one from euro parts for about £80.
That’s if you take the old one back to them within 1 month as you get £40 carriage back
 
I bought my refurbed calipers from those people "brakeparts"

Was spot on and great value. used them twice now, also for my Prelude 6 years ago when I had it.
they do exchange for the old one aswell, you just have to pay the return postage.

I looked into bigred, problem these them is that they dont stock any calipers on the shelf and you have to send your ones back to them for refurb which will take 2 or 3 days.This means your car will be off the road more than its needs to be. Would be ok if it was a project car.

With brakeparts, you order, they come and you fit, then send your old ones back. Done!
 
edgeoftime said:
replace the flexible hoses while your at it, they were most likely the cause of the problem in the first place.?
Click to expand...
Why would they cause issue?
 
When I did my 7th Gen rear brakes lots of TA advice said replace the flexi hoses too, as it was thought they could be responsible for sticking problems. Not knowing any better, I did as recommended -not least as I didn't want to revisit the overheating rear brake problem without having first covered all the bases.

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/8128-7th-gen-tourer-rear-brake-overhaul

Once I'd removed it I split one of my old hoses lengthways (easier said than done -they're really tough) and found no visible sign of internal deterioration what-so-ever. I didn't regret taking them out of the equation, though my genuine Honda replacements were rather expensive.

That's just my experience though. In that situation again, I might swap them, but with pattern parts.

I'm surprised nobody offers a stainless piston option as they seem so prone to corrosion...
 
accord1108 said:
Why would they cause issue?
Click to expand...
When you get the old calipers off pull the pistons and see what is inside lurking in the fluid, if you find loose bits of matter ask yourself where it came from??
 
When I replaced my caliper I also changed the break lines for good measure.
I went for after market ones from euro parts and these were better quality than genuin Honda ones on the 8th gen.
 
All points taken on board, i only questioned why, as i genuinely didn't know, not to criticize your point. When you say loose bits of matter, is this in the form of rust, rubber?
In the one which is sticking, the side of the piston is corroded, do you think this would be caused by dirt, etc? i have checked the other calliper and it is showing signs of pitting, just beginning to start, at a couple of points, when i replaced the pistons before, i changed the brake fluid, so i cant see why they are corroding, other than your point of foreign matter within the chamber
 
Heat is the enemy, how many times do you check the wheels after a drive? Mine collected the skin off my fingers, on the rebuild make sure the pads can "rattle" in the carriers, file the ends off a bit, and red rubber grease on the pistons/seals. Copper slip on the pins and carriers. I know many will say "rubbish" but the old remedies still work. Also the handbrake needs at least 6 clicks to be full on anything less will cause the shoes to bind.
 
edgeoftime said:
Heat is the enemy, how many times do you check the wheels after a drive? Mine collected the skin off my fingers, on the rebuild make sure the pads can "rattle" in the carriers, file the ends off a bit, and red rubber grease on the pistons/seals. Copper slip on the pins and carriers. I know many will say "rubbish" but the old remedies still work. Also the handbrake needs at least 6 clicks to be full on anything less will cause the shoes to bind.
Click to expand...
Thanks, when fitting the pads i do file, only until a snug fit, so may give them more so that they are looser, because at the minute when i go to remove they do be stuck slightly in the carrier.
No matter what grease i put on the pins, they always seem to set in one position, not that they cant be removed, they just take a bit of a push/pull to free. I have the handbrake set that way.
 
Just dawned on me now, what the purpose is, its the same caliper housing both sides, but bleed screw needs to be moved, so as to have on the upper side
 
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