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Silent block replacement in the lower control arm

dandreye

dandreye

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Location
London
Car
Accord 2L MT (CL7)
Hi All,

Has anyone tried removing old silent blocks from the lower control arm and fitting new ones using this type of tool kit marketed for ball joint replacement:
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/f~IAAOSwndZaaExb/s-l1600.jpg

If so how much effort/time did it take you and are there any critical do's and dont's to be aware of?

I need to do both lower ball joints and lower control arm silent blocks and hoping that that single kit will spare another £75-100 that press and pull sleeve kits cost.


Many thanks in anticipation!
 
Just buy new arms with new bushes already fitted - and save yourself a lot of blood, sweat and tears.
 
Cliffordski said:
Just buy new arms with new bushes already fitted - and save yourself a lot of blood, sweat and tears.
Click to expand...
We're not looking for easy ways :D

The reason for asking is that (1) the kit in question is at least twice cheaper than the labour and I need it to do the ball joints anyway and (2) having an office job I usually go for that sort of activities as a gym substitute. Buying arm ***emblies complete with the bushes has been an obvious alternative since inception, I'm just researching if it's really that hard to swap the bushes alone with this or perhaps a more suitable tool, e.g. one of those press and pull sleeve kits. I fancy investing into various useful tools the money that'd otherwise be, well, wasted )
 
dandreye said:
We're not looking for easy ways :D
Click to expand...
If you want a challenge why bother with the kit - just pull them out with your teeth.

If the bushes have seized in the arm then you can hacksaw the metal surround off the compliance bush and remove them that way. But if the others are seized they might need pressing out with a hydraulic press at a garage. Some people just change the compliance bush only when they do this job.

Up to you but having tried it the hard way myself I'd still recommend new arms.
 
Cliffordski said:
If you want a challenge why bother with the kit - just pull them out with your teeth.

If the bushes have seized in the arm then you can hacksaw the metal surround off the compliance bush and remove them that way. But if the others are seized they might need pressing out with a hydraulic press at a garage. Some people just change the compliance bush only when they do this job.

Up to you but having tried it the hard way myself I'd still recommend new arms.
Click to expand...
Thank you: fair enough. I couldn't resist the temptation to buy a MOOG one (decent quality reportedly) at this kind of pricing:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142115321005

Sadly they don't stock the other one but I hope I don't have to have the same brand at both sides and will then get something else I trust, e.g. Borg & Beck at GBP50 or Blueprint at GBP60 for the total of just over GBP70-80 for both resp. The 4 bushes alone would cost me at least GBP35 total, so not that much of a difference anymore.

Also that way I'll have as much time playing with the bushes in the old ones afterwards as I want ) After watching a couple of bush replacement videos on Youtube it looks like hacksawing is going to be necessary indeed unless WD-40 and that toolkit do wonders.

Update: do the lower arms in my car actually have compliance bushes at all? There are only 2: the inner one for frame attachment and the outer one for the strut fork attachment. Looks like compliance bush is the 3rd one where it exists.
 
Cliffordski said:
As investments go I've found this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROTHENBERGER-SUPER-FIRE-2-BRAZING-TORCH-AND-HEAT-MAT-BRAND-NEW-FREE-UK-DELIVERY/332556748165?epid=28003304831&hash=item4d6ded4585:g:tPQAAOSwkLhaTQnQ invaluable for removing corroded fasteners.
Click to expand...
I purchased a similar Campingaz one several years ago after watching them easily undoing all those 15-year old rusted bolts and nuts on my car with a similar tool at a garage, none of which I had any luck undoing by brute force:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370562521562

It's been extremely helpful ever since. The only frustration was to discover these ones later as they're 10 times cheaper and probably still good enough for the job:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273015950580
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253334972008

They fit traditional tourist butane gas cans sold everywhere although yours (and mine) with a threaded connection can do too via an adapter (purchased, tested, works):
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332228685709

Thanks for the idea anyway: absolutely agree it's a must have for any old car to avoid that blood, sweat and tears )
 
dandreye said:
Thank you: fair enough. I couldn't resist the temptation to buy a MOOG one (decent quality reportedly) at this kind of pricing:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142115321005

Sadly they don't stock the other one but I hope I don't have to have the same brand at both sides and will then get something else I trust, e.g. Borg & Beck at GBP50 or Blueprint at GBP60 for the total of just over GBP70-80 for both resp. The 4 bushes alone would cost me at least GBP35 total, so not that much of a difference anymore.

Also that way I'll have as much time playing with the bushes in the old ones afterwards as I want ) After watching a couple of bush replacement videos on Youtube it looks like hacksawing is going to be necessary indeed unless WD-40 and that toolkit do wonders.

Update: do the lower arms in my car actually have compliance bushes at all? There are only 2: the inner one for frame attachment and the outer one for the strut fork attachment. Looks like compliance bush is the 3rd one where it exists.
Click to expand...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thej said:
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
on this subject!
I planned on replacing just the bushes and yes a right mission. Moog replacement bushes only the inner fit, the outers are too small so car is currently up in the air in bits. Anyway regarding lower control arms can anybody answer this: why is there 40mm difference in length of lower control arms for cars manufactured in Japan or USA and Uk?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
They were different length, the cars, for example the JDM Accord I believe was shorter.
 
dandreye said:
Hi All,

Has anyone tried removing old silent blocks from the lower control arm and fitting new ones using this type of tool kit marketed for ball joint replacement:
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/f~IAAOSwndZaaExb/s-l1600.jpg

If so how much effort/time did it take you and are there any critical do's and dont's to be aware of?

I need to do both lower ball joints and lower control arm silent blocks and hoping that that single kit will spare another £75-100 that press and pull sleeve kits cost.


Many thanks in anticipation!
Click to expand...
dandreye said:
Hi All,

Has anyone tried removing old silent blocks from the lower control arm and fitting new ones using this type of tool kit marketed for ball joint replacement:
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/f~IAAOSwndZaaExb/s-l1600.jpg

If so how much effort/time did it take you and are there any critical do's and dont's to be aware of?

I need to do both lower ball joints and lower control arm silent blocks and hoping that that single kit will spare another £75-100 that press and pull sleeve kits cost.


Many thanks in anticipation!
Click to expand...
Cant answer but i do have this kit and pulled all the bushes out of my 20+ yr Toyota to replace with poly bushes.
The kits decent and robust and will pull out most bushes/joints if you have the right adapter combo- which can be a faff. I also have a ***ortment of press plates so can use them if the kit doesnt have the right size.

can make the job easier (if theres room) than having to pull the whole ***embly to put it on the press. . grease the threaded bar though, I used a impact gun which made it easy.
 
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