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2.2 i-CTDi oil

Jan Accord

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Honda Accord CN1
Hi fellas

I know that was already discussed but now i was searching on the various oil manufacturers sites and on the page of Castrol i found that they recommend the 0W-20 viscosity.
Can someone confirm that type of oil in this engine?

Thanks in advance
 
I was in my Honda Garage this morning and was talking to them about Oil, he said if your engine has a few miles on it then you should be using 5w-30 in the diesels, they last better with the slightly heavier oil than the light stuff.
Light oil is generally designed for fuel economy and cold start peformance.
That said there are plenty that will recommend 0w-30 as well, never heard of 0w-20 in a diesel yet, the petrol accord can use 0w20 though.
 
I would recommend 0W-30

0W-30 and 5W-30 are the same viscosity when warm and the 0W is thinner than the 5W when cold so will provide better cold start protection.
 
^^ this man works in the industry developing the additives that go into oils. He knows what he's talking about.
 
Grayedout said:
I would recommend 0W-30

0W-30 and 5W-30 are the same viscosity when warm and the 0W is thinner than the 5W when cold so will provide better cold start protection.
Any brand recommendations ?

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Thanks for the responses.
The car is 2006 witouth DPF or cats.
I would like to try the Motul 300V Power Racing 5W-30.
Anyone have experience with this oil?
 
https://www.motul.com/us/en-US/products/300v-power-racing-5w30--2

Out there are many great oils but from the informations i have and laboratory ****ysis should be one of the best oils avaliable on the market. I repeat should.
I know that does not make sense to use "race" oil in the daily car due to low cleaning aditives and high zinc and zddp aditives which should harm to the cat but i service my car every 5.000km, i have a straight exhaust with only ****lers and i don' t mind spending few bucks more for the oil.

I'm not an expert about oils but i would like to learn what is correct and what not and why.

Any input is welcome
 
300V are their racing oils designed to be used for short term race usage, not passenger cars with longer oil change intervals.
BTW I do 6000 mi oil changes and have been using Valvoline XLIII C3 5W30. I find it a good quality and economical oil and prefer it to the A5-B5 due to the high temp high shear HTHS properties.
 
That's the point which would also like to know.
The 5.000km interval is too long for usin an "race" focused oil?
 
100% synthetic racing motor oil based on ESTER Core® technology. Through technical partnerships with most prestigious Teams of car racing, MOTUL has developed a wide range of lubricants for Racing and Sport cars. The 300V motorsport line improves performance of the latest generation engines along with high protection against wear, oil pressure drop and oxidation due to high temperature.Power and Reliability. Medium engine dilution. Type of use: Rally - Short distance race

Personally I don't think its a good idea to use these types of oils in a daily driver in what is a moderate state of tune, race oils like these are changed every race usually and they aren't made to hold combustion byproducts in suspension.
If you have no cat you can add ZDDP to the oil which makes a significant difference to oil performance, the only reason its not used now is because it damages cats and not the furry kind!
 
Jan Accord said:
https://www.motul.com/us/en-US/products/300v-power-racing-5w30--2
Out there are many great oils but from the informations i have and laboratory ****ysis should be one of the best oils avaliable on the market.
Oil ****ysis does not provide the required information on the oils performance. This can only be done by its performance in standard engine tests and that is what the A5, B5 represents.

The 2.2 is a very ‘sooty’ engine and so you need an oil that can handle all the soot that is produced over a long duration which is the opposite to what a race oil is designed for.

Look for a Long life 0W-30 oil with A5,B5 credentials. I will look in the garage later and tell you what I currently use.
 
I just readed your thread and found some nice informations. Thanks [emoji6]
As you could notice many people are using thicker oil than listed by the manufacturer ( me included ) and i would like to know what are the positive and negative sides of using an thicker oil?
As example for the engine is recommended 5W-30 and you use 5W-40.
Or
What are the positive and negative sides of using an thinner oil?
As example for the engine is recommended 5W-30 and you use 5W-20.

Sory for so many questions but i would like to learn/understand regarding engine lubrification

Edit:
My car does not produce any visible soot or when testing with an optical sesnor on MOT and as mentioned i'm not running any DPF or CAT on my car.
Does that information change the oil choise?
 
Your car will still produce soot but it may not be visible if the levels are low but I would still recommend the same quality of oil.

There is a general misconception that thicker is better and this is not always the case but unfortunately there are lots of variations.

For example a cheaper non-synthetic 5W-40 may actually shear down very quickly (breaking VI Improver additives) and actually be running as a 5W-30 quite early in it's life and then may actually shear further and be thinner than a 30 grade by the end. Alternatively a high quality fully synthetic 5W-30 will stay in grade and remain as a 5W-30 for it's whole life.

A 40 grade will also provide worse fuel consumption than a 30 grade and so if Honda say the engine works with a 30 grade then they have carried out tests to ensure that the engine is durable in all conditions using that grade and so I would recommend it.

In terms of the low temperature performance (0W vs 5W) then you should buy an oil with the lowest number as this means it will be relatively thinner at cold start up and so will flow around the engine faster and get to key components quicker to provide protection.


So a fully synthetic 0W-30 will provide the best cold start performance, better fuel consumption and should stay in grade at a 30 for the duration of it's life, especially if it's being changed every 6,000 miles.

Hope this helps. :)
 
Have been using lubetech's 0w30 on my ictdi 2006 accord for the last 4 years.

Just finished my 3rd drum. Need to order another.
Fantastic stuff and super cheap.
Accord is at 177k and going strong. 6k ok changes.
Highly recommend.

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accord_n22 said:
Have been using lubetech's 0w30 on my ictdi 2006 accord for the last 4 years.

Just finished my 3rd drum. Need to order another.
Fantastic stuff and super cheap.
Accord is at 177k and going strong. 6k ok changes.
Highly recommend.
That sounds familiar and could be what I'm using !
 
accord_n22 said:
Have been using lubetech's 0w30 on my ictdi 2006 accord for the last 4 years.

Just finished my 3rd drum. Need to order another.
Fantastic stuff and super cheap.
Accord is at 177k and going strong. 6k ok changes.
Highly recommend.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

200, 000 on my mk7, diesel no worries at all, now on the low saps stuff on my mk8 again no worries. Good Product and super service.
 
I'm using the low saps stuff too. Even though the 7th gen doesn't need it. Wasn't much difference in price and a much better oil.

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I use the Smith and Allan stuff was about £55 a barrel, I'm now almost through my second barrel over the years, engine good
 
On 15.3 i was invited to an Motul seminar regarding their automotive oils.
The tech guy was avaliable for engine and transmission oils for recommendation.
He confirmed that 300V oil series are safe to use in gasoline engines for daily driving if the service interval is up to 5.000km or 6 months.
For the diesel ones is also safe to use if the car does not have EGR and DPF.
 
Hi all, saw in tesco earlier that magnatec 5w30 a5 spec was on offer 4ltr for £17.how would this oil do in a 125k 2.2 cdti? Any concerns about it? Cheers all.
 
You should be running a C3 oil imho.
A5 is not designed for performance or longevity, its designed primarily as a Fuel economy oil.
 
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