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Whining power steering '05 CDTi

Accord_CTDI76

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Location
Netherlands
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Accord CTDi
My CDTi is not steering correctly, especially with sharp turns (off/onramps at highway)
The steering wheel start to push back.

1st I thought bad tires, beut these are ok with load, threadwear.
2nd I thought joints, these are all fin
3rd I check the power steering pump and the oil : the pump makes noise (bearing) and the oil looks like it is shot.


I uploaded a youtube file :
https://youtu.be/gGno-VXO6VI

What do you guys think?
I think the oil is shot and the system needs a bleed/flush and maybe anew pump?

I was told many CDTi pump go out at ~150K miles.

Thanks
 
It is not known for power steering pumps to go on these cars. They are generally reliable and not aware of any known issues.

I have heard if non honda power steering fluid is used in the past this may have long term effects and possibly damage the pump, not so sure how true this is though.

Your video does not work by the way.
 
Thanks, here is the correct url
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGno-VXO6VI

Defo it is the pump making the noise, I helt a screwdriver agianst the running pump, you can hear the bearing noise very loud.
It does not make the buzzing sound much, unlike the US Accords which had a leaking O ring and/or recal on the hose.
I want to have it fixed, the car does not steer like Honda but some 30 year old Mercedes van!
 
You'll need a flush and I recommended getting a pump from a breakers. I'd replaced a few PSPs on the diesel accord.
 
Are you sure it is not low on oil? What do you mean by "the oil is shot"? The high pressure hoses sometimes develope leaks and you can start loosing oil. The noise in this case is more like roaring increasing with the turning of the steering wheel.
 
Went to the dealer yesterday:

Dealer
The system was checked for leaks (none).
We test drove another accord (2.0 facelift) which had the same issue, the counter steering on sharp turns.
He said my car was number 3 this week with these type of steering issues.
He was convinced that it is a bit of the trade of the 7th gen.
I said the car should steer light, most owners complain about the car steering to light and vague.
My car is a bit heavyon steering but no change in heavyness (now responsive too)
Had the system flushed and the canister cleaned .

Outcome
The steering has improved very much, the steering wheel is pushing back a little bit on sharp turns but way more confident than before.
The steering wheel is a little bit of shuddering.

We investigated the noise, it is coming from the chain, it seems they are all getting noisy after replacement.
Also he said the reason for chain failure is due to injector problems with injection period/duration which leads to a lot of strain.
There was a modification about this?

The mechanic was very helpful in searching for a solution.
I could replace the pump because they do fail but he said to flush a couple of times to see it improves more.
The oil is stil a bit brown, but it is hard to get all of the old oil out at once (new fluid should be light yellow and clear)
Also have had the wheels balanced (improved a lot 20grams on every wheel!)
I also was told that the Accord needs a alignment every 30000-50000km. Will have the car 4 wheel aligned this week.

To be continued!
 
So it turns out it was not the ps pump making the noise? Yes, the chains are very bad design on this engine and yes they may become noisy, but so much noise does not seem alright for me. How did you confirm that it is the chain? Did you run the car without the belt and replicate the noise?
 
All chains, oil+water pump have been replaced at 100K mls by 1st owner, now at 140K mls.
Have not run the engine w/o belt. It is noisy but inside the car I do not hear it, just the turbo when you floor it and the factory BOV with a nice hish when you lift off the throttle.

Very looked after car, just needs some TLC now and big maintenance (all fluids and filters and I mean all OEM and the best).
It does run on 5W30, which I do not like. Will switch to 0W30 next service.

Engine does run very smooth and is powerful when you floor it. Initially it feels a bit slow when you try do drive economical, but it is not a TDI which are lively from stationary.
35MPG is what I get from the engine with a normal driving style (faster than most). Not sure how people get 45MPG with this 2.2D heavy lump but it does not seem possible unless you do 60mph all the time.

Stepped back from a 2017 Focus ST line 180bhp (company car), so you can imagine the car will never handle like that car.
Expected a bit more quality from Honda, but at least it is built way better than any Ford.
 
Have had a 4 wheel alignment yesterday on a Hunter machine, factory specifications.
Front toe was pretty off.
Rear they did not adjust, everything just stuck as f***, but well in Honda tolerance.

Car steers in very well now and much more confident, still have to turn the wheel quite well to go around the round-a-bout.
The knock back in the steer is pretty much gone, just over 75-80 degrees angle a slight push back.
 
After the alignment the pushing back in the steerng wheel returned, also the whole car shakes in thef front / in the seats. It feels like a cement mixer at most speeds.
I was sick of the car and was suspecting the drive shafts. When I raised the car on one side to inspect the shafts today I turned the steering wheel to clear the drive shafts (ENGINE OFF)
*KLUNK* *KLUNK*
So I was "WTF?"

At close inspection it turns out the left outer tie rod is totally worn out, I think at least 2 millimeter of play which you DO NOT feel with the raised wheel and pushing/pulling on the X-Y axis (normal procedure for MOT).
So I checked online : 25 Euro's for both sides (Nipparts).

Will have the car on monday for MOT and make the Honda mechanic check every DAMN bushing, rod and bolt (this is a new shop suggested by a friend of mine , car has been serviced there former Honda)

Have had the car checked at the Honda dealer : not a word
Have had the car 4 wheel aligned at the best shop : not a word
I do 5 minutes of ghetto inspection and have found the probable cause

WTF is up with these shops nowadays?
The only shop I know which is a true mechanic and know his s**** unfortunately only services V.A.G., but I am considering helping him so in return I can go service my own car(s) again in return (access to full workshop)

QUESTION :
Which suspension other parts usually give way in the front on the Accord?
inner tie rods?
upper suspension arm balljoint?
lower ball joint?
 
I replaced on my 2008 Facelift 7th gen in 45k miles:


2 x front bushings (big one in front) I used PSB bushings from ebay.(I made a thread about it somewhere on here)
4 x Droplinks (meyle)
1x Outer tie rod
2 x inner tie rods
I also had a lower ball joint ready to fit (2.2 Diesel) but the car was written off before I could fit it.@165k miles
The tourer 7th diesel was a little heavier than the petrol but the biggest difference I could feel was the PSB front bushes, they were cheap and very good imo.
 
No, the wear was less present at the time, I think my (VERY) hard breaking caused it to wear out rapidly. I talked to a V.A.G. specialist (used to bring my GTI TDI there and very critical mechanic) and told me the alignment shop I went is run by idiots nowadays so I won't be going there anymore either. He sadly has no time to work on my Honda, asked a Honda buddy to do all the work (including the dreaded manifold) and do a really good alignment.

I noticed the big front bearing is starting to have cracks as well (used a prie bar to check), so I'm thinking of a complete overhaul for the front.
250 euro's I have everything new including LCA (mostly Nipparts).

So I will be picking up my newly aquired 1997 1st owner 45K mile Civic EK3 (LS full option and A/C) and be driving that for the time beeing.
At least these cars are w/o any problems, and if the have them I will be fixing it myself!!

Too many socalled mechanics nowadays, where are the real ones??
 
Personally I don't believe the LCA needs all rubber bushes changed, just the big one at the front , the other two are quite strong and rigid with very little rubber to go bad.
Like I said the PSB ones are very good to fit, the bolts that hold them in are bad to change it could be worth it to have two new ones to fit if the old bolts are seized and need to be cut.
http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/24495-front-compliance-bushes/
 
Had the car for MOT, checked the front suspension extensively.
MOT point is left lower ball joint, passes MOT but has some play but within limits. Outer steering joints are OK.
Did an additional check with me in the car and pulling the steering wheel left to right and vice versa.
Play and clunk comes from steering rack, but no MOT point so far, the wheels respond directly, but yes some play and also vibrations likely from the steering rack.
Brake discs are warped too in the front.
This is a very good all-round mechanic who also works on large machines and tractors etc, nothing like the idiots that mostly populate the dealerships.

This is another set back, overhauled rack 600 euro, pump 100 euro (have the best discount around), a day work.
Have to have the manifold done too.
I am not going to invest further in this car and wait for the engine to give problems (sometimes feel a slight hick around 2000rpm.. injector, diesel filter, software, pressure sensor, EGR??)
This way it will never stop and I have to do 20Kmiles a year.
Gonna call a guy who made an offer on the car before which is a decent offer considering diesels are totally zero wanted right now on the mainland due to diesel scandals.
This has been a very expensive car to drive and to be honest, love the looks, interior, but never again a diesel!

Bought a 1st owner 45K miles EK3 Civic last weekend, rustfree, fixed the aircon, new drive belt, new tires and alignment, drives like a charm, 40 MPG all day.
It is nothing like the Accord, but also not the headaches!

Thanks for the advice people, been helpful.
 
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