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Warped disk breaks


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#1 dejv

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Posted 08 January 2020 - 01:16 PM

I got an issue with my honda, it always warps my front disks.

 

My old front disks were finished and I replaced the disks and pads with Bosh from buycarparts.co.uk and in about a year disks got warped (car isn't used as a daily so maybe it covered max 4000miles), I tried to get them skimmed but they only lasted about 3 months.

 

I replaced the disks + pads and got brembo bought also from buycarparts.co.uk however they only lasted about a year max again.

 

Any ideas why is this happening? I tow a jetski occasionally and never washed the car when the disks were hot. It also got a stage 2 remap but don't really do much hard breaking.



#2 Bounder

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Posted 09 January 2020 - 10:00 AM

Often warped brakes are actually not warped but suffer from material build up on the surface of the disc which causes a grip-slip-grip feeling not unlike warped discs in feel.

Check the discs for runout with a dial gauge, if they are in spec the disc is likely to need surfacing to remove the contaminant.

If they have runout you need to clean the hub thoroughly and the disc inner face where it mounts to the hub, refit and check again.

 

If they are still out of spec then they need to be replaced.

 

Other things to check are the slider pins in the calipers, are they moving freely?

If not remove, clean and regrease with rubber safe grease, NOT coppergrease.

 

Then check brake piston movement, are the pistons clean, not corroded and moving freely?

 

You may need to rebuild the calipers paying particular attention to the grooves in the caliper that hold the square section O-rings, what happens is that dirt and corrosion builds up behind the seal and forces it into the piston causing binding and resulting in overheating of the brakes which can cause problems like pads leaving deposits on the braking surface.



#3 saj

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Posted 09 January 2020 - 10:48 AM

Eas the hub cleaned fully with wire brush before mounting of disk. All mating surfaces with brakes must be perfectly cleaned.

#4 dejv

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Posted 09 January 2020 - 03:46 PM

Often warped brakes are actually not warped but suffer from material build up on the surface of the disc which causes a grip-slip-grip feeling not unlike warped discs in feel.

Check the discs for runout with a dial gauge, if they are in spec the disc is likely to need surfacing to remove the contaminant.

If they have runout you need to clean the hub thoroughly and the disc inner face where it mounts to the hub, refit and check again.

 

If they are still out of spec then they need to be replaced.

 

Other things to check are the slider pins in the calipers, are they moving freely?

If not remove, clean and regrease with rubber safe grease, NOT coppergrease.

 

Then check brake piston movement, are the pistons clean, not corroded and moving freely?

 

You may need to rebuild the calipers paying particular attention to the grooves in the caliper that hold the square section O-rings, what happens is that dirt and corrosion builds up behind the seal and forces it into the piston causing binding and resulting in overheating of the brakes which can cause problems like pads leaving deposits on the braking surface.

 

when you say surfacing you mean skimming?

will remove the new set and confirm that the hub is clean. I think I had them painted (not sure I forgot)

the piston is and with I pushed the piston fairly easy (after opening the brake fluid reservoir) and using a gclamp

 

will post pictures of the caliper



#5 Bounder

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Posted 10 January 2020 - 07:22 AM

If the hubs were painted that will cause issues, the paint thickness is not uniform and anything on that surface will cause issues, it should be just bare metal.

 

Yes surfacing is skimming.



#6 dejv

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Posted 10 January 2020 - 07:23 AM

Below are some photos

 

IMG-20200109-185943.jpg
 
IMG-20200109-185947.jpg
 
IMG-20200109-190014.jpg
 
IMG-20200109-190027.jpg

Edited by dejv, 10 January 2020 - 07:24 AM.


#7 Bounder

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Posted 11 January 2020 - 07:40 AM

#3 shows the slider pins, they should be able to move in and out freely. If they seize then the caliper will stick on causing excessive heat.

with the caliper removed push the carrier back and forth and see if they move freely.



#8 saj

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Posted 11 January 2020 - 10:34 AM

Hub must be perfectly clean. No paint no rust.

#9 antdad

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Posted 12 January 2020 - 07:04 PM

My only proviso to what's been said is if they had been sticking and it's caused excessive heat build up you'd normally see some discolouration of the actual disk nor would it have got through it's MOT.

 

You're towing I guess another 500kg where you're obviously going to be near water.  I don't know, try to avoid running through puddles/water at the end of a trip?

 

Measure how hard you are really braking with a phone app, you possibly don't realise how heavy a foot you have.



#10 dejv

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Posted 13 January 2020 - 07:33 AM

I checked and the piston was clean, put some grease on the slider just in case, I sanded down all the paint that is in contact with the brake pad just in case for heat dissipation, I am not going through paddles nor putting water on them when they are hot.



#11 antdad

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Posted 13 January 2020 - 11:25 PM

Don't know what else to suggest fella especially as it continues to happen,  get yourself a cheap laser thermometer to monitor how hot your rotors are getting and give you an idea why or when it might be happening.

 

You have a stage 2 in a heavy car and you're towing, that to me is a recipe for having to brake hard even if you think you aren't. 



#12 dejv

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Posted 14 January 2020 - 07:34 AM

got a set of used disks but barely used, will see how it goes :S


Edited by dejv, 14 January 2020 - 07:34 AM.