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DIY- Rear Hub Bearing ***embly

S

Salim

TAF Member
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Accord
Hi,

Changed the rear hub bearing ***embly today. Its really easy and not much of a how-to but nonetheless here are a few pics I managed
to take. If you've changed pads and discs before you will breeze through this so dont be shy.

Basic tools required such as the ones needed to change brakes.

Time: 30-60mins


After removing the wheel,

01062011538.jpg


undo the caliper bolts which are held on by two 13mm bolts, pull the caliper away and hang securely somewhere out the way.

CaliperBolts.jpg



01062011541.jpg



then remove the carrier held on by two bolts- 13mm?

01062011543.jpg



next undo the disc retaining screws, you may need an impact driver to undo these if they're seized.
remove the discs, tap lightly from behind disc to loosen if needed.

For reference
Discretainingbolts.jpg


once you have this done take a look behind the hub, you'll see four bolts holding it on spray these with WD-40 and undo these 14mm? bolts and the ***embly
will come out easily leaving you with this.

Hubbolts.jpg


01062011550.jpg


01062011551.jpg


01062011552.jpg


You do not need to remove the ABS sensor but be carefull not to touch or knock it!!!

01062011555.jpg


The bearing was gone not much play but very notchy compared to the new one.

clean area and refit in reverse order, might aswell clean and lubricate the slider pins and make sure the notch on the back of the pad ligns up with groove in the piston I didn't need to wind it back.
 
Nice DIY Sal with good pics.This will be very handy for members rep point well deserved :)
 
Thanks for doing this guide Sal mate. I'm sure it will help out loads of people. Top work
 
Sal, do you mind me asking how much you paid for the replacement part?? Which brand is it also???
 
Excellent!!

Has it cured the problem Sal?
 
Pepster said:
Nice one that is one rusty hub sal.
Click to expand...

Its not anymore :lol: tbh it looks like rust but alot of it was crud thats flaked off :unsure:


brett said:
Nice DIY Sal with good pics.This will be very handy for members rep point well deserved :)
Click to expand...

cheers bud

saj said:
Sal, do you mind me asking how much you paid for the replacement part?? Which brand is it also???
Click to expand...

It was a blueprint brand, paid £70 there was another brt part for a lilttle cheaper.

F6HAD said:
Excellent!!

Has it cured the problem Sal?
Click to expand...

Thanks Fahad, yep peace and quiet again :)
4 new tyres tomorrow.
 
Excellent write up mate. Rp your way!

Your hub retaining screws are looking the little the worse for wear - it might be an idea to get them changed if you haven't already.
 
Good job mate, very similar to the Pre;ude hubs I changed.
However I found no play when wobbling the wheel but found the bearings at the back of the hub had collapsed and had massive amount of play when inspected on the bench
 
Excellent write up! Very hand for members indeed! Well done :)
 
Thanks guys it was pleasantly an easy job.
Dan If you mean the disc retaining screw. Then well spotted I did change them for new when putting it back together.

CJ original sensor, please mate no bad news I know they prone to go on the n/s?

Shabz mine didn't have play but you could tell it was grinding when spun, so it hard to spot sometimes.
 
Sal when you say it was grinding do you, was it a scraping type of noise? Also did it disappear when you apply the brakes?
 
Sorry bud - I did mean Disc screws... :D
 
J4JAV said:
Sal when you say it was grinding do you, was it a scraping type of noise? Also did it disappear when you apply the brakes?
Click to expand...


when I spun it you could tell the bearing was grating and felt notchy, not like the scraping noise from pads against disc if that makes sense lol
nah not really much difference under braking but round a long left bend the noise would substantially reduce and I think it was causing a very slight wobble but that might of been in ma head.
 
Pepster said:
Naah mate it fine , as Honda did issue a technical ebullient sating the bolt which hold the sensor on the hub has to be torqued , if the bolt is too tight it crushes the crush washer letting water into the bearing causing premature failure.

By looking at the rust residue on your bearing that what alerted me to it.
Click to expand...


No you could be right, and this could be the inherent fault for these to go as the bearing housing where the sensor resides I did spot a little bit of white residue seeping through what could be a tiny amount of water ingress. If you enlarge the pic with the sensor you can see it.
 
Sal,

As the other's have said, great write up and a valuable contribution to the forum which I am sure will prove extremely useful to many members.

Out of interest and for the benefit of others, what torque settings did you use on reassembly ?
 
CJM said:
Sal,

As the other's have said, great write up and a valuable contribution to the forum which I am sure will prove extremely useful to many members.

Out of interest and for the benefit of others, what torque settings did you use on reassembly ?
Click to expand...

Thanks mate, I think it was 65nm from memory

Alnug said:
nice one.... ;)
Click to expand...

Thanks Al
 
Had a garage replace one for me, but they did something wrong.
On my way home at traffic light, driver behind me came out and said my wheel looked like it's about to come off the car.
Had a friend look at it too while I was driving, he said same thing. He was shocked by how much.

Problem now is garage is 20 min away and i can't drive it.

What could it be?
 
Yes. We jacked the car up and there was no play in the wheel.
Only wobbles when you drive it.
 
Hi been a member since September 2011 this is my 1st post, just about to replace a rear wheel bearing is there a o ring you need to replace between the new bearing and backplate looked at some Honda diagrams and it shows a o ring did you replace it?

Thanks Gary
 
The hub comes with a new O ring. If you look at image of old vs new you can see it.
 
Yep, be sure to torque everything back up :)

if you've changed discs and pads before you'll have no trouble.
 
I said 65nm one page1 someone may be able to check the ESM and tell... i've got 59nm in my head for some reason. Either should be fine
 
I'm about to do this on my 04 Icdti saloon but I'm not sure if my Sealey VS 024 wind back tool will fit this car. Sealey couldn't tell me either. All they could tell me was the pin distances are either 22mm or 33mm. Does anyone know?
Thanks
 
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