EDIT: 1) Make a note of your original ride height!
2) BIG NOTE!! REMEMBER TO LOOSEN ALL BUSHINGS AND TIGHTEN THEM WITH THE LOAD OF THE CAR ON THEM (measure original ride height -2cm or so)
Ok..the biggie. As a pre-note. I’ve not done any suspension work before, but I’m handy around the car as you know
. Took me 7.5 hours this was incl 1.5 hours faffing about with the end link nuts!!!...DON’T make my mistake..read below!
These instructions are to be used in lieu with the workshop manual (see here) and also the limited instructions with the kit (not really needed). I do not take any responsibility for any damage done to your car or yourself for you following these methods!
Background
Well my car has a has had a hard life..especially on the suspension…moving bunches of people..moving house….lugging 100Kgs or more of stones for said new house!...car felt a bit strange bumping on dips and seemed slightly unpredictable and just generally felt unnerving to drive…..no one else could feel it…but if it’s your car you know!....could have waited until it became dangerous but I LIKE to drive and this was unnerving.
The KIT
This was supplied by our trader Gareth from Holdcroft Honda…..excellent discount otherwise I would not have bought it :thumbsup. The kit is slightly different from my original kit this was 08W60-SEA-600B which caters for up to 18” wheels think my original was 08W60-SEA-600, which now says it’s only applicable for the 2.0….so I think the spring ratings and or dampers have been altered slightly.
TOOLS
1 or 2 Trolley jacks (I used 1 trolley and 1 bottle), axle stands, torque wrench, long 17mm and 14mm ring spanner (these really are the best tools I have!), 17mm and 14mm normal spanners, 45cm breaker bar (or whatever), ratchet +extension +10mm+12mm+14mm+17mm sockets, smaller ratchet, wire brush, PENETRATING SPRAY (MUST MUST!), copper anti-seize.
I can’t emphasis enough you need GOOD TOOLS for this job. I used the professional Clarke range from Machine mart. I ended up cracking the coating on the 17mm socket and got it replaced for free – lifetime warranty don’t you love them . You are most likely to be dealing with slightly stuck fastners and rust…tools snapping etc is the last you’ll want!
optional tools
Trim clip remover (good for those white clips), 14mm crows foot (for those buggery end links), 4mm or 5mm allen key and hammer…..well just to smack yourself with if you get frustrated…always on yourself never the car or anyone else :x
You may need extra little bits and pieces depending how it goes….or an extra helper if you need it….I did it myself.
HOW TO
FRONT
The front is pretty straight forward you follow the manual until the bit where it says withdraw the strut…..reality is different at this point…..(isn’t it nice how the people who write manuals are in a different world lol)
1) take off the wheel
2) loosen the top strut mounts (as per manual….but dont’t take them all off yet! You need a hand in the wiggling to come!)
3) PENETRATING FLUID – spray the 14mm on the top and 17mm on the bottom of the fork holding the strut..wait a bit
4) use your breaker bar to break tension on the two bolts...be slowwwwww….crank a bit…add fluid..crank a bit more..more fluid..until it begins to get easy. If you just keep yanking most likely you’ll round the head (if you have bad tools) or shear the bolt!! Once they’re free you’re in!
Susf3.jpg
5) release the fork from the strut by pulling down (well do whatever you do to get it free!). then leave the fork on the driveshaft.
6)NOW the tricky bits NOT EXPLAINED IN THE MANUAL! Undo the brake line attached to the arm.
7) place your jack under the knuckle like in pic above.
8 ) time to release the nuts holding the strut to the top (5 in total) hold the strut with one arm while undoing.
9) keep the direction of the steering straight ahead and load up the suspension. The circled bend in the arm is your contender here!
If you keep the suspension unloaded the bend in the arm prevents the top of the strut coming out. You’re going to need to use the jack under the knuckle quite a bit here..to clear the strut of the bend in the arm and the top of the fork.
10) you got it clear! Wohoo 8) …now while holding the strut..turn the brake disc and try and move the strut out in direction shown below (yes I know the arrow is the wrong way )
Notice how as you turn it turns the arm as well :lol: !......oh you have raised both front wheels off the ground right hehehehe :twisted: :twisted: .
Sounds tricky :? …it is …but very doable..the strut isn’t that heavy…just little tips not shown in the manual.
Refitting is reverse of removal as they say…you’ll need to jack up and down again to move the strut in…oh and use antiseize on all contact nuts and strut areas just in case in future you need to take things off!!
MOST IMPORTANT JACK UP THE SUSPENSION to ride height before tightening all connections! Measure from arch to hub centre, you should try to get it original ride height -2cm. this is crucial as it will seat things properly instead of straining them! RIDE QUALITY WILL BE COMPRIMISED IF YOU DON'T!
TIP: LOWER the WHOLE front end after loosending the bushings to get the weight on the whole front end. If you try to do it one side at a time the sway bar will prevent proper strut loading!
finished front
UPDATE!! FOR THE REAR
ok here are sum pics on how to do the rear....this differs from the manual an I wonder why Honda didn't do this, you DON't need to take of the C pillar cover and you DON'T need to remove the endlink nuts!!! (THESE CAN BE A BUGGER!!)
2) BIG NOTE!! REMEMBER TO LOOSEN ALL BUSHINGS AND TIGHTEN THEM WITH THE LOAD OF THE CAR ON THEM (measure original ride height -2cm or so)
Ok..the biggie. As a pre-note. I’ve not done any suspension work before, but I’m handy around the car as you know
. Took me 7.5 hours this was incl 1.5 hours faffing about with the end link nuts!!!...DON’T make my mistake..read below! These instructions are to be used in lieu with the workshop manual (see here) and also the limited instructions with the kit (not really needed). I do not take any responsibility for any damage done to your car or yourself for you following these methods!
Background
Well my car has a has had a hard life..especially on the suspension…moving bunches of people..moving house….lugging 100Kgs or more of stones for said new house!...car felt a bit strange bumping on dips and seemed slightly unpredictable and just generally felt unnerving to drive…..no one else could feel it…but if it’s your car you know!....could have waited until it became dangerous but I LIKE to drive and this was unnerving.
The KIT
This was supplied by our trader Gareth from Holdcroft Honda…..excellent discount otherwise I would not have bought it :thumbsup. The kit is slightly different from my original kit this was 08W60-SEA-600B which caters for up to 18” wheels think my original was 08W60-SEA-600, which now says it’s only applicable for the 2.0….so I think the spring ratings and or dampers have been altered slightly.
TOOLS
1 or 2 Trolley jacks (I used 1 trolley and 1 bottle), axle stands, torque wrench, long 17mm and 14mm ring spanner (these really are the best tools I have!), 17mm and 14mm normal spanners, 45cm breaker bar (or whatever), ratchet +extension +10mm+12mm+14mm+17mm sockets, smaller ratchet, wire brush, PENETRATING SPRAY (MUST MUST!), copper anti-seize.
I can’t emphasis enough you need GOOD TOOLS for this job. I used the professional Clarke range from Machine mart. I ended up cracking the coating on the 17mm socket and got it replaced for free – lifetime warranty don’t you love them
. You are most likely to be dealing with slightly stuck fastners and rust…tools snapping etc is the last you’ll want!optional tools
Trim clip remover (good for those white clips), 14mm crows foot (for those buggery end links), 4mm or 5mm allen key and hammer…..well just to smack yourself with if you get frustrated…always on yourself never the car or anyone else :x
You may need extra little bits and pieces depending how it goes….or an extra helper if you need it….I did it myself.
HOW TO
FRONT
The front is pretty straight forward you follow the manual until the bit where it says withdraw the strut…..reality is different at this point…..(isn’t it nice how the people who write manuals are in a different world lol)
1) take off the wheel
2) loosen the top strut mounts (as per manual….but dont’t take them all off yet! You need a hand in the wiggling to come!)
3) PENETRATING FLUID – spray the 14mm on the top and 17mm on the bottom of the fork holding the strut..wait a bit
4) use your breaker bar to break tension on the two bolts...be slowwwwww….crank a bit…add fluid..crank a bit more..more fluid..until it begins to get easy. If you just keep yanking most likely you’ll round the head (if you have bad tools) or shear the bolt!! Once they’re free you’re in!
5) release the fork from the strut by pulling down (well do whatever you do to get it free!). then leave the fork on the driveshaft.
6)NOW the tricky bits NOT EXPLAINED IN THE MANUAL! Undo the brake line attached to the arm.
7) place your jack under the knuckle like in pic above.
8 ) time to release the nuts holding the strut to the top (5 in total) hold the strut with one arm while undoing.
9) keep the direction of the steering straight ahead and load up the suspension. The circled bend in the arm is your contender here!
If you keep the suspension unloaded the bend in the arm prevents the top of the strut coming out. You’re going to need to use the jack under the knuckle quite a bit here..to clear the strut of the bend in the arm and the top of the fork.
10) you got it clear! Wohoo 8) …now while holding the strut..turn the brake disc and try and move the strut out in direction shown below (yes I know the arrow is the wrong way
)
Notice how as you turn it turns the arm as well :lol: !......oh you have raised both front wheels off the ground right hehehehe :twisted: :twisted: .
Sounds tricky :? …it is
…but very doable..the strut isn’t that heavy…just little tips not shown in the manual.Refitting is reverse of removal as they say…you’ll need to jack up and down again to move the strut in…oh and use antiseize on all contact nuts and strut areas just in case in future you need to take things off!!
MOST IMPORTANT JACK UP THE SUSPENSION to ride height before tightening all connections! Measure from arch to hub centre, you should try to get it original ride height -2cm. this is crucial as it will seat things properly instead of straining them! RIDE QUALITY WILL BE COMPRIMISED IF YOU DON'T!
TIP: LOWER the WHOLE front end after loosending the bushings to get the weight on the whole front end. If you try to do it one side at a time the sway bar will prevent proper strut loading!
finished front
UPDATE!! FOR THE REAR
ok here are sum pics on how to do the rear....this differs from the manual an I wonder why Honda didn't do this, you DON't need to take of the C pillar cover and you DON'T need to remove the endlink nuts!!! (THESE CAN BE A BUGGER!!)
