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boot wont unlock

T

the big read

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Location
Bromley, Kent
Car
5th 1.8 VTEC
My 2001 accord hatch boot lock hasnt worked since christmas last year. For cost effectiveness ive dont nothing about it yet, but now I want to sell the car and would like it fixed.

Its not the actual lock....ive bought another and it did nothing! I did read on a Civic forum that they experience a problem caused by the regulator? Im not technically minded at all sadly.
Ive tried using the key and the fob. Using the key directly in the boot lock barrel does nowt.

Has anyone else had this problem, and did they find the problem?

Any help greatly appreciated.

Steve
 
Do you mean the boot doesn't unlock when using he remote fob? If so, it's probably the wiring to the boot lock mechanism.

Sorry i can't be of more help, but it's probably worth stripping the trim off the boot and having a look to see if everything is still connected like it should be.
 
luvmyaccord said:
Do you mean the boot doesn't unlock when using he remote fob? If so, it's probably the wiring to the boot lock mechanism.

Sorry i can't be of more help, but it's probably worth stripping the trim off the boot and having a look to see if everything is still connected like it should be.
Click to expand...


I'd check the block connection above the fuses at the passengers knees fusebox, just make sure it's pushed in correctly and clicks when pushed hopme.

B
 
It seems like we are both having the same problem.

A bit more detail with my car...

First noticed the problem when the car wouldn't dead lock - all 4 doors would lock, indicators flash and alarm etc, just not dead lock and boot would remain unlocked. This happened intermittently for about two weeks then stopped working altogether.

I had a look behind the panel on the boot hatch that has a courtesy light - there are two wiring connectors - 1 x blue & 1 x grey. The blue one goes to the actual locking mechanism and I can only ***ume is a sensor of some sort and the grey one goes to a 12v motor ***embly.

With the grey connector disconnected, the car's doors will now deadlock - but obviously the boot won't lock. The deadlocks will work from both the key fob and the key in the lock.

I have got another lock and motor ***embly from a scrapyard, tested continuity and all good but when I plug the connectors into them still nothing. That is why I think it is something to do with the grey connector wiring harness that goes up the offside of the boot hatch by the rear window, into the car and I ***ume to the driver's door where the central locking control box is located.

If the weather is good tomorrow I will try and get the boot hatch trim removed so I can inspect the wiring harness for splits etc.

I have pulled every fuse that I can find on the car and checked continuity and also checked the plugs by the passenger fuse box and all seem ok.

I won't let this beat me!
 
Any luck yet? Or anything been dismissed as not as fault?
 
I've not really tried yet. My mate is gonna take a look at it with me some time soon, but has asked for a wiring diagram of the lock mech.
 
Do you have access to the diagram you need? If not i'm sure there's one on here somewhere.
 
hi guys not been on this for a week :( sorry but i have had the rear boot off my car and had it in a milllllllon bits lol

my boot wouldnt open if the handle wasnt all the way back in, try pushing the boot handle back. (common fualt)

Fixed by new Handle

when your locking / unlocking the car, can you hear the boot motor working???

The 3 wire blue plug am sure is for Key sense whitch is when you use the key in the boot lock is sends a negitive signal to the central locking unit located in the multplex passenger fuse box.

The gray plug is for motor power.

there is no wiring diagram for this 6th gen, the data honda have is useless too!

I have a honda Civic Diagram witch mite be of use.



Hope this helps and any more info would be good :)
 
TIN-MAN said:
hi guys not been on this for a week :( sorry but i have had the rear boot off my car and had it in a milllllllon bits lol

my boot wouldnt open if the handle wasnt all the way back in, try pushing the boot handle back. (common fualt)

Fixed by new Handle

when your locking / unlocking the car, can you hear the boot motor working???

The 3 wire blue plug am sure is for Key sense whitch is when you use the key in the boot lock is sends a negitive signal to the central locking unit located in the multplex passenger fuse box.

The gray plug is for motor power.

there is no wiring diagram for this 6th gen, the data honda have is useless too!

I have a honda Civic Diagram witch mite be of use.



Hope this helps and any more info would be good :)
Click to expand...

Thanks for that mate. Diamond!
I will send that to my mate and see if it means anything to him. I wouldnt even begin to understand that lol.

It wont send a signal via key or fob. Do the blue and the grey go to the same box from the lock? Maybe its the reciever/box thingy thats knackard?
 
the big read said:
Thanks for that mate. Diamond!
I will send that to my mate and see if it means anything to him. I wouldnt even begin to understand that lol.

It wont send a signal via key or fob. Do the blue and the grey go to the same box from the lock? Maybe its the reciever/box thingy thats knackard?
Click to expand...

no trouble at all :)

Both plugs run to the Passenger fuse box, and it has a multfution unit fitted at the back down the bottom, witch is what works the central locking on the boot and the two left side doors.
(the drivers fuse box works the two right doors)

i have a pic with the glove box out and some info ave added:-


did you try checking the handle and listening to hear if the boot motor is working???
 
No noise from the boot motor. I've taken the mech off and replaced. I reckon its something to do with the cable running into the passenger fuse box, going by what you guys have said above.

Will update as and when I get to the bottom of it.
 
Dude, with your photo I managed to find all plugs, unplug....replug. worked! Boot motor now working.

However, after opening and closing a few times its now firmly locked. Motor works but hatch won't open lol. I've checked the tab in the lock in both positions. How do I get this mother open?? Lol
 
Crowbar??? ;) Sorry, probably not helping.

Have you tried to open it with the key in the lock in the boot? Also i know this is a silly suggestion, but have you tried unplugging and the plugging in the connectors again?
 
luvmyaccord said:
Crowbar??? ;) Sorry, probably not helping.

Have you tried to open it with the key in the lock in the boot? Also i know this is a silly suggestion, but have you tried unplugging and the plugging in the connectors again?
Click to expand...

Lol yeah tried that. Also sprayed a load of GT85 around the lock area. Will see what tomorrow brings.
 
Can you get to the removable panel on the boot hatch trim with the courtesy light?

If so, you may be able to get your hands inside and get to the cable that links the boot handle to the lock mechanism - if you are on the inside of the car looking back it will be on the right hand side.

If you push / pull the cable's sheath away from its metal holder you may be able to grip the sheath and cable and put enough force on it to work the mechanism.

In my case - I tried Tin Man's suggestions and removed the glovebox, unplugged & re-plugged the necessary connectors but no joy. I am beginning to think that it is the motor itself, even though it seems to check out with a continuity test. The blue connector doesn't seem to make a difference whether it is connected or not - only the grey connector being plugged in stops the car from deadlocking. If I try the key in the boot lock I can lock (& deadlock) the car, but it will not allow me to unlock it.
 
the big read said:
Well.....I gave it a go but no matter how hard I tugged the cable it did nothing.
Click to expand...

rite troops was a good day yesturday and thought i would rip my boot apart for the sheer crack ;)

the key hole in the boot is not mechanical its eletrical :( so it doesnt matter how much GT 85 you use, its a 3 wire blue plug like this:-


if you can't hear the motor working then its ether the motor its self or a connection thats broken. i would recheck the plugs you were playing with. if you have a volt meter or test light then you can test the suppy to the motor. (4 wire gray plug)
(sorry no pic if you 1 let me no.)

the 2 wire blue plug is for boot light.

i have stripped the passenger fuse box apart and got a picture of the back where the multifuction unit goes.


PS
if its locked and theres no sound from the motor working and the boot handle is not opening the boot then pulling on the cable is useless as this becomes
disconected when its locked. But steve you said you could here your motor working :huh:
they maybe these pics mite help you

 
Dude you are one helpful and useful bloke!!

Sadly though the metal tab doesn't help though. That's what I'd been using whilst the motor was dead.

Dunno what I can do to get it open now. I wish I'd just not closed ot that last time, and I could have put my other lock on there. Bah
 
Gordon that's a great post! Nice one fella.

Steve i can't remember, is there any way to get into the boot through the back seats?
 
Just been having a read through owners manual, and it states that the lock for the hatchbacks "tailgate is a electromagnetic type lock.Unlock/lock cannot be operated when battery power is lost".
Other tha that no more info in manual,sorry i can't be of more help but it may give you another avenue to look into.
 
luvmyaccord said:
Gordon that's a great post! Nice one fella.

Steve i can't remember, is there any way to get into the boot through the back seats?
Click to expand...

Yeah that guy is fantastic help! Im a member of many forums and never had that much help in such easy to follow detail.

Yeah its a hatch so very easy to climb into the boot (even though im a massive fella). Until the last ****up id been able to crawl in there and lock unlock via the tab if I needed to.
As stated previously, the motor was the problem before, now the motor is fixed but the boot in locked shut regardless of what I do with the tab. Its extremely annoying as a) I HAD IT FIXED FOR 10MINS! and B) im trying to prepare it to sell it.
 
Ok thought i would try locking my self in the boot and see if it could get it open.

To cut a long story short i removed the boot light cover, and found a silver metal tab that when moved unlocks the mechanisum, then pulling down on the cable opened the boot. i have taken some more pics with it stripped so you can see what i did.



is this the same tab as you were talking about steve?

this here is the power connector to the mechanisum witch you can see in the first pic at the far left in the middle


If your not getting the sound of the motor locking or unlocking then i would be checking this plug.

the stut preformed in this post was done by a professional and is not to be attempted at home lol
 
Rimmo said:
Just been having a read through owners manual, and it states that the lock for the hatchbacks "tailgate is a electromagnetic type lock.Unlock/lock cannot be operated when battery power is lost".
Other tha that no more info in manual,sorry i can't be of more help but it may give you another avenue to look into.
Click to expand...

nice1 m8 thought it mite have been with it been a 4wire system :D i always forget to look at the manual and drive right in. and end up going about it the hard way lmao!

PS Thats such a cool word electromagnetic B)
 
TIN-MAN said:
Ok thought i would try locking my self in the boot and see if it could get it open.

To cut a long story short i removed the boot light cover, and found a silver metal tab that when moved unlocks the mechanisum, then pulling down on the cable opened the boot. i have taken some more pics with it stripped so you can see what i did.



is this the same tab as you were talking about steve?

this here is the power connector to the mechanisum witch you can see in the first pic at the far left in the middle


If your not getting the sound of the motor locking or unlocking then i would be checking this plug.

the stut preformed in this post was done by a professional and is not to be attempted at home lol
Click to expand...


Nice help there Gordon,
 
TIN-MAN said:
Ok thought i would try locking my self in the boot and see if it could get it open.

To cut a long story short i removed the boot light cover, and found a silver metal tab that when moved unlocks the mechanisum, then pulling down on the cable opened the boot. i have taken some more pics with it stripped so you can see what i did.



is this the same tab as you were talking about steve?

this here is the power connector to the mechanisum witch you can see in the first pic at the far left in the middle


If your not getting the sound of the motor locking or unlocking then i would be checking this plug.

the stut preformed in this post was done by a professional and is not to be attempted at home lol
Click to expand...

Yeah that's the tab I mean mate. That's what I've been using the past few months to lock/unlock whilst the motor was playing up.
 
Stupid question, but the Coupe has 3 buttons on the keyfob - lock, unlock, and mystery.

The decals are worn off, but should the 3rd button unlock the boot on the Coupe? (It currently doesnt).
 
the big read said:
Any idea what the green connector is for BTW?
Click to expand...

The green plug is for the boot light. with a orange wire for negative signal when boot open and white wire is 12volt connsant. it plugs into the light on the boot.

maybe i wasnt clear earlier the blue plug comes comes from the mechanisum and it is the 1 that sends the negative signal to the oarnage wire and to the other boot light.


hope this makes sence.
 
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