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Modifying a 6th gen.

luvmyaccord

6th & Type R Mod
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Accord Type R
Hey all, In this post i'm aiming to cover all aspects of moding a 6th gen. But i'll be mainly focusing on the performance (power) upgrades that are available.

In this post I hope to be able to provide a little help to those of you who wish to mod your beloved 6th gen, but don’t know where to start.

The information I provide in this thread is what has been said either by the MANUFACTURER, or from personal experience either by myself or other people who have tried the parts on their car. I personally spent a long time looking at ways to get more power out of my F20B6 engine and am writing mainly my experience, with a little help from others.

I’ll split it into sections so it’s a little easier to read.

Chassis:

Lowering – There are a few options available to you if you’re after a little, or a big drop on your car. The 2 main options are either a set of springs such as Eibach, which I have on my car and have seen used on many Hondas all to great effect. It’s the cheapest way of lowering your car. A set of springs are around £180, then you’ve just got to pay for them to be fitted unless you’re handy with the tools and you can do them yourself.
prod_prokitlrg.jpg

The next option is a full Coilover kit such as KW or Bilstein. This is a more expensive way to go and will cost you anything from £500-£1200 for the parts. Coilovers can offer adjustable ride height, damping and rebound depending on which kit you go for.
honda+civic+crx+accord+adjustable+coilover+kit...JPG


Bracing – A strut brace goes from the top of one suspension turret to the other. They are relatively cheap (£100ish) and do a good job of changing the handling characteristics of the car. They also look good when opening the bonnet lol.
Tanabe_Sustec_Front_Upper_Strut_Brace_Accord_94-97_2_4dr.jpg


Brakes – There are many options available for a brake upgrade such as EBC. You can change both the rotor and the pads for better stopping abilities.
auto-part-brake-discs-for-honda-03-accord.jpg
 
I'll add them in a mid dude.just going out for a ***. - Sorry didn't know that was banned. Meant ciggie, :)
 
bracing wiise a company called solid fabs do front 2 or 3 point, rear is currently in devoloment

bracking there are ebc as said but i am personally not a fan. Ferrodo ds2500 are much better coupled to bremtech discs.

Lowering as said ebach but there is also weitec, h and r for lowering springs. Coilovers there are kw, tien, bilstein which are around the 750 plus mark. Other chaeaper options are meister r, bc, and xyz.

Intake an aem v2 can be made or k and n typhoon for long ram. I'd avoid short as of heat soak. Or go for a panel filter.

Exhaust there are many cat back de cat and manifolds out there to choose from.
 
Hey dude, cheers for the info. I'm currently writing the other part to it. This is mainly a thread for people who want to mod their 'normal' 6th gen though, not the ATR. And there are VERY few bits that are available. :blush:

If you think of anything to add once the main part is up though, please feel free to add them. B)

Always better to have more people helping with this sort of thing.
 
I was only using the parts listed as an example becuase there are too many to list individually :lol: But if you think of more to add to the list so people have a wider choice then thanks. It's very welcome. B) :)
 
Right, POWER!!!! :lol:

When looking at mods to get more power out of your engine there are a few things to look at. The first is usually an induction kit of some sort. These are split into 2 different types. There is Short Ram and Long Ram.
Short ram -
aem_short-ram_240sxsmall.jpg
This type are not as highly recommended as they sit in the engine bay and suffer with heat soak. There are kits available from companies such as AEM, and prices for them start at £35 on Ebay, and range to about £100.
Long Ram -
K&N-Typhoon-Cold-Air-Intake-98-99-00-01-VW-Polo-1.6L-L4-for-sale_140436040851.jpg
These are the recommended ones and they sit where the original air box in the front bumper is. So that has to be removed. AEM also do a kit, but the tried and tested one is the K+N typhoon, which although designed for the ATR can be addapted to suit any 6th gen engine.

On an engine like the F18 or F20 an induction kit may give you an extra 1 or 2 bhp, but they are worth installing just for the noise they produce!!!

After market panel filters are also available to help with the breathing of your car. An example would be a K+N panel which is just a straight drop in panel.

After the breathing you're looking at things such as the exhast and mani and de-cats. You can get a custom exhaust from a company such as Powerflow. As for a de-cat, any one designed for an ATR will fit, with a little bit of fiddling.

For manifolds there is a company in America who do a mani for the engine. It's called Bisimoto. Their site claims an increase of 25bhp. Which is debatable. A quick search on Google will give you all the claimed facts, and you can make up your own mind.
 
Damn good thread there Si any recommendation for the k24 B)
 
After all this you're inot the relms of Camshafts and ECUs. Please bear in mind that if you change the cams then you WILL HAVE TO change the ECU as well. Otherwise you'll end up missing all the time and are putting your whole engine at risk i.e broken valves. When changing the cams on your car you will also need stiffer valve springs to aid the 'input-output' of the engine. When fitting these stiffer springs to a F series enigne it is also recommended to fit stronger valves at the same time.

There are many types of ECU available to you to use. There are full standalone units such as a P28 ecu, then there are piggyback chips too. I have no experience with a piggyback chip and would recommend a full standalone system, (if your car is post 2001, you'll most likely need a OBD2 to OBD1 conversion as well.

Also available to you is a P06 ECU. This is fitted originally to a EDM Civic Coupe, and can be found in scrap yards for a few quid. This is a fully programmable ECU.

Once all these parts are fitted to your car you'll need to get hold of a base map, so the person that's setting up your engine can 'modify' that map to get the best gains out of the mods that you've had fitted to your car.
 
RIght i think that's it for now. If anyone thinks of anyhting that has been missed or would like included, please feel free to post them up, and i'll include them.

Mods - can this be tidyed up a little please. So all the sections that i've posted are together? Then other people can start posting stuff underneath that they feel should be included, and i'll edit my posts to include them please.

Thanks goes to Marcus and Carlnike for some of the info provided. Keep it coming dudes!!!!
 
Excellent thread Si. At least we know where you've been hiding all this time! Looking forward to some gratuitous engine revving vids :D
 
Most stuff in these post are general and most things people already know. But this will help the people that dont and want to maximise the 6th gen.The more general stuff can apply to all gens.


ECU:

All 90-02 Accords are OBD1.
This means any obd1 ecu plugs right in with no wiring mods whatsoever.
ECU's that work with Crome are listed below
No mods are needed and all can be converted to do the same thing as any others listed. Vtec, IAB's, EGR's, etc

Accord and Prelude ECU's are chippable, but you can only edit timing. Theres not much point to chip them becuase Integra and Civic ecu's are fully programmable.


The following ECU's will work for ANY OBD1 application with the proper tuning.

1. P06 - non-VTEC, 4-wire O2 sensor, no IAB. This ECU is found on 1992-1995 Honda Civic Ls coupe models.
2. P28 - VTEC, 4-wire O2 sensor, no IAB. This ECU is found on 1992-1995 Honda Civic Si models.

3. P72 - VTEC, 4 wire O2 sensor, IAB, knock sensor equipped. This ECU is found on B18C Integra GSR models.
4. P75 - non-VTEC, 4-wire O2 sensor, no IAB. This ECU is found on B18B Integra

You can use Crome to tune the Ecu to whatever you need. This is a free programme and very user friendly,
however you do need to know what you are doing before using. you can google Crome to download it. Dont mix it up with Google Chrome!

P06 ECU lives in these cars:
1993-1995_Honda_Civic_sedan_01.jpg
 
Just adding to whats already been said here, this can be put into the Itake section

INTAKE:

Panel filter: More air flow that stock, no induction noise, reuseable, restricted in performance due to stock airbox.

Short-ram Intake: less airflow friction, more prone to engine bay heat in original form.

Cold-air Intake: More airflow friction, cooler air intake charge, more frequent filter cleaning necessary, prone to water ingestment/hydrolock.

A pipe is a pipe, the key to this mod is the quailty of filter, however the better the filteration the more air flow restriction thus less power beneift.

What you want is the straighest route to the throttle body starting with 3" and preferably tappering down to the throttle body size to gain a small venturi effect.

K&N and Pipercross are very good filters and provide a great sound. K&N are better filteration, but are quieter. The wider the neck the better flow. Both can be purchased from ebay for under £80
 
CAMSHAFT:

If you are running an aftermarket camshaft, block off the air starting/boost valve or it will cause vacuum leak

Use a P06 ECU or similar that doesn't recognize an EGR system, if you wish to block it off

If running aftermarket camshaft, you may need to raise your idle RPM to develop enough vacuum for consistency through engine management

If running aftermarket camshaft, do not be surprised if your idle screw & IACV do not help for consistent idling


Aftermarket Naturally-Aspirated Camshafts typically have more duration and more overlap for the scavenging effect to recharge the cylinders with a fresh intake of air.

Bisimoto makes the best camshafts for Honda, and specialises in F and H series.


There are may options the most popular is a L2 cam in this link http://bisimoto.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_9_66_71_86&products_id=287

Details are in the link.

Its recommended to get stiffer springs which are shorter to prevent spring lock, (spring runs out of travel) due to the increase lobe hieght.
 
EXHAUST:

On the 6th gen the exhaust manifold is a 4-1 meaning it has 4 branches that goes into 1. This is better for topend, but the standard manifold has different length branches which is not ideal for optimisation

Most aftermarket manifolds will convert to 4-2-1 allowing for more of a transition down to the single 1 pipe. The branches will be equal length. The collector should be around the 2.5" mark to avoid bottle necking. The most you will get from this mod is about 5-8bhp however Bisimoto makes a custom manifold although expensive has proven gains of a great deal more.

4-2-1 Megan Racing Manifold
8182010_164212_1688_MR-SSH-HA98L4.jpg


4-1 example design
8232010_121436_9555_MR-SSH-HC01DX.jpg


A sport cat or a decat mod can produce some gains also this reduces the cat cells from 400 to 200 or 0 if decat. This has a side effect of small popping on the overrun with gains around the 3-5bhp max.

Cat-back systems, are the most popular modifications this replaces everything from the cat back. Normally the midbox and rearbox are a straight through design for less flow resistance. Gains on the 6th gen will be around 5-7bhp mark.

These can be picked up on ebay and http://www.europerformance.co.uk/pages/products/category_manufacturer.mhtml?category=exhau


Source: From my head, and some bits from cb7tuner.com

Hope this is the kind thing you wanted from me Simon. I can bash out more if needed.
 
On the 6th gen the exhaust manifold is a 4-1 meaning it has 4 branches that goes into 1. This is better for topend, but the standard manifold has different length branches which is not ideal for optimisation

The 6th gen is 4-2-1 bud as standard! The previous model was 4-1.
 
The 6th gen is 4-2-1 bud as standard! The previous model was 4-1.

Oh dear lol, so yours is a 4-2-1? You see my dad has a 6th gen f20b6 its 1999, its got a single downpipe going into the manifold, to my knowledge it is the original. Does the 6th gen have a different manifold pre and post facelift?
 
Oh dear lol, so yours is a 4-2-1? You see my dad has a 6th gen f20b6 its 1999, its got a single downpipe going into the manifold, to my knowledge it is the original. Does the 6th gen have a different manifold pre and post facelift?

Not sure about that mate, mine is 1999 1.8 pre facelift and I recently changed the front pipe as it was blowing, both the original and replacement were twin downpipes. Perhaps a previous owner put a single on your dads?
 
Aha that explains that then, at least that cleared things up

So my dads is the 2.0 and it has the single, yours is the 1.8 and has the double

Quite an important difference for future 6th gen modders when choosing an aftermarket exhaust.

Thanks guys for the valuable imput
 
I would have thought that the 4-2-1 system would benefit the 2.0 more than a single pipe system? Then again, I suppose that Honda knew what they were doing lol... Useful bit of info anyways guys B)
 
This is a guess, but the 1.8 needs the 4-2-1 double downpipe to help bump up the torque which would be lower than the 2.0 due to less displacement. Single downpipe allows for higher top end due to higher flow velocity, the double the flow is slower in flow but better for low down and mid power due to more scavenging effect.
 
This is a guess, but the 1.8 needs the 4-2-1 double downpipe to help bump up the torque which would be lower than the 2.0 due to less displacement. Single downpipe allows for higher top end due to higher flow velocity, the double the flow is slower in flow but better for low down and mid power due to more scavenging effect.

wow this boy knows his stuff B)

great thread this is :D just been sittting going through it and all the links :) most i do no but defos learning some new thing.
 
Cheers G, however after re-reading that bit you quoted, I really need to improve my grammar!

Oh and 1000th post!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Cheers G, however after re-reading that bit you quoted, I really need to improve my grammar!

Oh and 1000th post!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:) no probs hahaha i am sure we could all do with a little improving :p
 
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