this is evolving since i have more pics to show about servicing the filters etc..but will write up soon
Engine oil
---------------
Tools
-jack stands - gloves -Filter tool -Sump plug washer -cardboard/newspaper or whatever to catch any drips -oil receiver (basin or whatever) -10mm +14mm socket +ratchet -oil catcher or whatever - Funnel -Torque wrench
Jack up the car and support on stands.
Remove the cover which hides the drain plug (10mm bolt)
Undo the bolt and have the oil receiver underneath...best to line around with cardboard or similar in case the wind blows! undo the bolt by hand at the end and be aware oil may seep down your arm!
Leave to drain until finished and make sure the sump washer has come off the sump and refit the plug with a new washer and tighten to 44Nm
TIP if you don't have a torque wrench a good guide is to use a regular length 14mm spanner to tighten, the length prevents you from applying too much torque...you don't need to hit it with a hammer to tighten!
Now the oil filter, this is best done with the drivers side wheel off but not necessary.
I have a filter attachment which fits directly on the filter because i find fiddling with the other universal filter removers annoying B)
Place the oil reciver under the filter and twist off by hand. When you take it off IMMEDIATELY tilt the filter so the open end faces upwards that way you don't spill oil on yourself
Make sure the rubber seal of the old filter has come off the engine block and clean up with excess leaked oil with a rag or similar....check around the subframe...oil may have dripped into places and if not cleaned up you'll be second guessing yourself as to whether you have an oil leak when you move the car!
Place some oil in the new filter to help prime the filter and place some oil on the seal of the new filter.
Spin the filter on by HAND until the rubber seal touches the engine block, then turn it another 3/4 turn (OEM filters will have markings on them - slightly different markings depending on where the filter originated)
Fill with 4L of oil and wait for it to settle (a few minutes) and top up - the min max marks on the dip stick is about 1litre.
Start the car to circulate the oil and wait again to check oil level, top up if necessary...also MAKE SURE YOUR CAR IS ON FLAT SURFACE.
SPARK PLUGS
------------------
Tools
-Spark plugs for 2.4 IZFR6K11 Iridium, for 2.0 ZFR6K11
-10mm socket (best from a 1/2 inch set since the 1/4 ones won't be long enough) +ratchet
-16mm spark plug socket or maybe a dedicated spark plug remover
-OPTIONAL (if you don't use dedicated spark plug remover) extension for ratchet annd rubber fuel hose
Take off the spark plug cover (4 bolts)
Now remove the 4 bolts holding the coil packs, note position of extended bolts
Disconnect the connectors and remove the coil packs
Remove the spark plug (note the length of extension needed)
Now if like me you have a crappy sprark plug socket which keeps leaving the rubber grabber on the spark plug :lol: grap a piece of fuel hose to help seat the spark plug...this also helps not to cross thread the spark plug seats...also you may want to apply some antiseize on the threads
Once the washer of the spark plug touches the cylinder head, just turn it another 1/2 to 3/4 turn to seat it....it is a crush washer on the plug so don't go jamming the spark plug hard against the cylinder head..it's aluminium and can be stripped easily...once that happens....
Now refit everything
AIR FILTER
------------
Tools
Cross head screwdriver (reach has to be about 6" or so) and maybe a magnet
This one is easy it's just 4 screws and the filter will come out....no need really for pics here.
Engine oil
---------------
Tools
-jack stands - gloves -Filter tool -Sump plug washer -cardboard/newspaper or whatever to catch any drips -oil receiver (basin or whatever) -10mm +14mm socket +ratchet -oil catcher or whatever - Funnel -Torque wrench
Jack up the car and support on stands.
Remove the cover which hides the drain plug (10mm bolt)
Undo the bolt and have the oil receiver underneath...best to line around with cardboard or similar in case the wind blows! undo the bolt by hand at the end and be aware oil may seep down your arm!
Leave to drain until finished and make sure the sump washer has come off the sump and refit the plug with a new washer and tighten to 44Nm
TIP if you don't have a torque wrench a good guide is to use a regular length 14mm spanner to tighten, the length prevents you from applying too much torque...you don't need to hit it with a hammer to tighten!
Now the oil filter, this is best done with the drivers side wheel off but not necessary.
I have a filter attachment which fits directly on the filter because i find fiddling with the other universal filter removers annoying B)
Place the oil reciver under the filter and twist off by hand. When you take it off IMMEDIATELY tilt the filter so the open end faces upwards that way you don't spill oil on yourself
Make sure the rubber seal of the old filter has come off the engine block and clean up with excess leaked oil with a rag or similar....check around the subframe...oil may have dripped into places and if not cleaned up you'll be second guessing yourself as to whether you have an oil leak when you move the car!
Place some oil in the new filter to help prime the filter and place some oil on the seal of the new filter.
Spin the filter on by HAND until the rubber seal touches the engine block, then turn it another 3/4 turn (OEM filters will have markings on them - slightly different markings depending on where the filter originated)
Fill with 4L of oil and wait for it to settle (a few minutes) and top up - the min max marks on the dip stick is about 1litre.
Start the car to circulate the oil and wait again to check oil level, top up if necessary...also MAKE SURE YOUR CAR IS ON FLAT SURFACE.
SPARK PLUGS
------------------
Tools
-Spark plugs for 2.4 IZFR6K11 Iridium, for 2.0 ZFR6K11
-10mm socket (best from a 1/2 inch set since the 1/4 ones won't be long enough) +ratchet
-16mm spark plug socket or maybe a dedicated spark plug remover
-OPTIONAL (if you don't use dedicated spark plug remover) extension for ratchet annd rubber fuel hose
Take off the spark plug cover (4 bolts)
Now remove the 4 bolts holding the coil packs, note position of extended bolts
Disconnect the connectors and remove the coil packs
Remove the spark plug (note the length of extension needed)
Now if like me you have a crappy sprark plug socket which keeps leaving the rubber grabber on the spark plug :lol: grap a piece of fuel hose to help seat the spark plug...this also helps not to cross thread the spark plug seats...also you may want to apply some antiseize on the threads
Once the washer of the spark plug touches the cylinder head, just turn it another 1/2 to 3/4 turn to seat it....it is a crush washer on the plug so don't go jamming the spark plug hard against the cylinder head..it's aluminium and can be stripped easily...once that happens....
Now refit everything
AIR FILTER
------------
Tools
Cross head screwdriver (reach has to be about 6" or so) and maybe a magnet
This one is easy it's just 4 screws and the filter will come out....no need really for pics here.
