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4000 RPM issues


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#1 Mikkeyb

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 12:47 PM

hey Guys...

hopefully one of you genius's can help...

Basically just got my Honda Accord 2.0i Vtec SE Exec (auto) less than a week ago... did some work on it and got it through its M.O.T... ££££'s later... thought i would treat the car and got a full Valet... asked them not to touch the engine... (they mustn't of heard me... maybe a language barrier)... any how i drive the car away and the engine light comes on... checked over the engine to see it was cleaner and there was water on the battery... so they must of cleaned the engine either by steam or pressure washer?...

its an intermittent fault, most of the time the car wont let me go over 4000RPM its like there is a rev limiter... sometimes it lets me rev happily all the way... its like the Vtec is kicking in, which i assume is electronic?... has anyone had this?... or know how to fix it?...

would drying out all the plugs and connectors help?...

any help would be magico fantastico... i've already found advice on other problems with my car just by skimming this forum...

Thanks in advance!...

#2 skhell

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 12:56 PM

Is it a 6th gen?

Try to remove the distributor cap and rotor and see if its wet or damped and give a clean. Also, remove the battery for a night or the backup clock fuse in the passenger under tray to reset the ECU.

#3 crespo

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 01:08 PM

your car is going in to limp mode. it won't rev past 4k to protect the engine. your car has stored a fault code and you need to get that read. otherwise you could start playing an expensive guessing game.

its probably emissions related and is probably just a faulty lambda sensor. but get the code read to be sure. any good mechanic will be able to read the code for you. don't go paying Honda 90 quid for something your local friendly mechanic will probably do for free.

#4 Mikkeyb

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 02:12 PM

well my local mechanic checked it for free... but his diagnostic came back as 'honda specific'... he reset it and it came back on after a few seconds driving... i will try the battery removal and get the code reset... but other garages are gonna charge £30-40 just to diagnose the fault... ive checked alot of the connections and they all seem good... maybe an issue with the MAS sensor?... i dunno...

thanks for the replies so far...


EDIT - i believe its a 6th gen as its an x reg (2000)... or am i wrong?

Edited by Mikkeyb, 08 December 2011 - 02:15 PM.


#5 TIN-MAN

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 02:46 PM

well my local mechanic checked it for free... but his diagnostic came back as 'honda specific'... he reset it and it came back on after a few seconds driving... i will try the battery removal and get the code reset... but other garages are gonna charge £30-40 just to diagnose the fault... ive checked alot of the connections and they all seem good... maybe an issue with the MAS sensor?... i dunno...

thanks for the replies so far...


EDIT - i believe its a 6th gen as its an x reg (2000)... or am i wrong?


sorry to jump in here but its not going to be a map sensor this would cos bad idle or high revs, its not a lamda sensor coz its only to do with fuel econ. if there was water in the dizzy then it would have trouble starting and would be mis-firing till the engine got warm. same with plugs and HT leads.

my geuss would a cam sensor or Vtec sensor is wet or faulty as this will coz your car to enter limp mode to protect your engine. as Crespo said.

pay the £30-£40 get the "P" code read, and there is a list at the top of this form with the means
this will indact what is cousing your porblem. there mite be a way of having the engine light display it as flash codes :S not sure tho


plz post back the code you get.

#6 skhell

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 03:53 PM

On the model with the F18B2 engine, it is possible to see the error without a scanner, although I have never tried it. Maybe its worth to try it your self and see if it does anything.

To do so you have to "short" with some wire the "service check connector" (a 2 pin connector in the passenger under tray) and then turn the ignition switch on.

Then the MIL indicates indicates a code by the length and number of blinks. Check your PM for more details ;)

Edited by skhell, 08 December 2011 - 03:56 PM.


#7 TonyB

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 08:12 PM

Did the mechanic say what the code actually was? P1399 or something like it.

#8 luvmyaccord

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 11:10 PM

If the code came back as Honda specific then you need a Honda reader to find out.

Pedro is talking about the paperclip test. There's a how to somewhere on here. Not too sure where though.

Firstly though, did you check that there was enough oil in the car? The Vtec works on Oil pressure, and if there is not enough oil then the car won't Vtec to protect itself.

As Gordon has said, i'd just pay the £30 to find out the code, and then sort it. Shouldn't imagine it'd be anything serious though as it came on after the engine was cleaned.

Actually, check that the Vtec solenoid is plugged in properly. Mine came loose after i'd cleaned the engine bay and the car wouldn't Vtec and the MIL light came on. It is located under/near/below the dizzy cap mate.
2001 Milano Red, Eibach springs, VtecDirect Mani, downpipe, decat and zorst, ported and polished head, K+N panel filter, VtecDirect oil cooler, lightweight pullies, XTD lightweight flywheel, Full new set of valves retainers and springs, DS250 pads, Bremtech disks, throttle body coolant bypass, New standard ATR cams and a re-built head, balance belt removed, Volk TE37 - resprayed in Anthracite. Light Tints, K+N Long Ram Typhoon.
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#9 93 accord

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 11:19 PM

yeah 4250rpm? Thats the max revs before vtec on that engine, it happens when the engine is very low on oil, and as Simon says, it wont allow vtec to engage its a fail safe.

Vtec engines use oil in the combustion, during high rpm overun, so it doesnt have to be a leak to loose oil.

Might as well check the oil, no lost if its not that.

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#10 TIN-MAN

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Posted 09 December 2011 - 01:30 AM

yeah 4250rpm? Thats the max revs before vtec on that engine, it happens when the engine is very low on oil, and as Simon says, it wont allow vtec to engage its a fail safe.

Vtec engines use oil in the combustion, during high rpm overun, so it doesnt have to be a leak to loose oil.

Might as well check the oil, no lost if its not that.


its worth checking but if oil was low then the vtec doesnt kick in lol and if it gets really low the oil light comes on.

check the oil cap is tight first coz the vtec needs oil pressure to work so loes oil cap means no pressure, i have seen that b4.
these are easy checks to make.

#11 TonyB

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Posted 09 December 2011 - 07:26 AM

There would still be a code number. I chose P1399 because even Honda did not list it on their computer but that was the code my engine threw at me.

Get a cheap reader <£20 and diy.

Tony

#12 Mikkeyb

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Posted 09 December 2011 - 09:23 PM

Well thanks for all the info so far...

Good News/Bad News... i air cleaned most of the connectors... took the car out for a spin and all was good... took it to my garage reset the light and all good... then driving on the motorway the light came back on... and BOOM back into 'LIMP' Mode... parked the car up... had a cuppa... took it for another spin and rev'd above 4000 RPM...

SO i have no idea whats up with it...

the fault code my garage got was 'P1259'... any help is very appreciated...

cheers... :-)...

#13 TIN-MAN

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Posted 09 December 2011 - 09:34 PM

Well thanks for all the info so far...

Good News/Bad News... i air cleaned most of the connectors... took the car out for a spin and all was good... took it to my garage reset the light and all good... then driving on the motorway the light came back on... and BOOM back into 'LIMP' Mode... parked the car up... had a cuppa... took it for another spin and rev'd above 4000 RPM...

SO i have no idea whats up with it...

the fault code my garage got was 'P1259'... any help is very appreciated...

cheers... :-)...


your code means theres a fault with the Vtec. there is a sensor for the Vtec on the engine this is normally a angle sensor that can detect the change in angle for the ECU to adjust accordingly.

your fault is happing when the engine is warm so am guess but the connection to the vtec signal is bad a the connector on the engine.
when it cools down the metal contracts and the a connection is made again.

#14 Mikkeyb

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Posted 09 December 2011 - 09:54 PM

hopefully not to sound dumb here, but how do i locate and fix?...

#15 TIN-MAN

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Posted 09 December 2011 - 10:30 PM

hopefully not to sound dumb here, but how do i locate and fix?...


not sounding dum at all the sensor will be on the side of the engine near the top of the block,

i havent found it on my accord yet but its on the right hand side in the civics and is held in by a single 10mm bolt. there is normaly 3 or 2 wires on them.

check the plug for water and make sure the pins are clean and making good contact.

#16 Mikkeyb

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Posted 09 December 2011 - 10:47 PM

not sounding dum at all the sensor will be on the side of the engine near the top of the block,

i havent found it on my accord yet but its on the right hand side in the civics and is held in by a single 10mm bolt. there is normaly 3 or 2 wires on them.

check the plug for water and make sure the pins are clean and making good contact.



well i know what my Sunday this week will be all about... 'operation fix my car or possibly chill all day with a super awesome Sunday dinner'... :-)...

#17 luvmyaccord

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Posted 09 December 2011 - 10:55 PM

Look in-front of the dizzy cap. It's the little clip that's popped it's head up.

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2001 Milano Red, Eibach springs, VtecDirect Mani, downpipe, decat and zorst, ported and polished head, K+N panel filter, VtecDirect oil cooler, lightweight pullies, XTD lightweight flywheel, Full new set of valves retainers and springs, DS250 pads, Bremtech disks, throttle body coolant bypass, New standard ATR cams and a re-built head, balance belt removed, Volk TE37 - resprayed in Anthracite. Light Tints, K+N Long Ram Typhoon.
1997 Impreza 555 RA - New Cosworth forged pistons and matching piston rings *.50 oversize.**Rebore block to suit New Crankshaft. New race quality crank bearing set. APi uprated oil pump.STi 2003 year model con rods.STi gasket and seal set, baffeled sump.* Stage 2 organic clutch, lightweight competition spec. Flywheel and balance, TD05G20 Turbo, Standalone ECU, 650cc injectors. HDi Hybrid racing front mount intercooler.

#18 luvmyaccord

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Posted 09 December 2011 - 10:59 PM

Actually, come to think of it, on the ATR there's another 2 clips behind the dizzy cap. I can't remember which one the Vtec solenoid is off the top of my head, but's it's one of them. I think it's the green one. But not too sure if yours will be the same colour.

Edited by luvmyaccord, 09 December 2011 - 10:59 PM.

2001 Milano Red, Eibach springs, VtecDirect Mani, downpipe, decat and zorst, ported and polished head, K+N panel filter, VtecDirect oil cooler, lightweight pullies, XTD lightweight flywheel, Full new set of valves retainers and springs, DS250 pads, Bremtech disks, throttle body coolant bypass, New standard ATR cams and a re-built head, balance belt removed, Volk TE37 - resprayed in Anthracite. Light Tints, K+N Long Ram Typhoon.
1997 Impreza 555 RA - New Cosworth forged pistons and matching piston rings *.50 oversize.**Rebore block to suit New Crankshaft. New race quality crank bearing set. APi uprated oil pump.STi 2003 year model con rods.STi gasket and seal set, baffeled sump.* Stage 2 organic clutch, lightweight competition spec. Flywheel and balance, TD05G20 Turbo, Standalone ECU, 650cc injectors. HDi Hybrid racing front mount intercooler.

#19 Mikkeyb

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Posted 11 December 2011 - 12:20 PM

well i found a green one which looked like it was connected to a sensor (the sensor was screwed in with a circlip...)... ive cleaned and WD-40'd it... it it doesnt work i think i may remove the sensor... or should i replace it?...

it appears to only have an issue when it gets warm?... as works fine until ive drove it for a bit...?

#20 luvmyaccord

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Posted 11 December 2011 - 06:26 PM

Might need replacing. It might be worth a trip to a garage that can read the code properly for you. If they can't read the fault then they shouldn't charge you for the 10 mins it's going to take them to read it.
2001 Milano Red, Eibach springs, VtecDirect Mani, downpipe, decat and zorst, ported and polished head, K+N panel filter, VtecDirect oil cooler, lightweight pullies, XTD lightweight flywheel, Full new set of valves retainers and springs, DS250 pads, Bremtech disks, throttle body coolant bypass, New standard ATR cams and a re-built head, balance belt removed, Volk TE37 - resprayed in Anthracite. Light Tints, K+N Long Ram Typhoon.
1997 Impreza 555 RA - New Cosworth forged pistons and matching piston rings *.50 oversize.**Rebore block to suit New Crankshaft. New race quality crank bearing set. APi uprated oil pump.STi 2003 year model con rods.STi gasket and seal set, baffeled sump.* Stage 2 organic clutch, lightweight competition spec. Flywheel and balance, TD05G20 Turbo, Standalone ECU, 650cc injectors. HDi Hybrid racing front mount intercooler.