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DIY and REVIEW - Wireless Reverse camera

alnug

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Staff member
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Location
W. Yorkshire
Car
Jaguar XF S
tools needed
------------
plastic pry bars(optional)
Dremel or similar
Crimping tool
screwdriver
8mm & 10mm sockets
trim clip puller
soldering stuff - phono plug - speaker cable or similar and other bits of wire
parts to make adapter (see below)
bullet connectors and sockets (or similar)

DIY
-------
ok I've been testing this kit for a few weeks now so thought it's time to get this up. Had a friend abroad who asked if I'd like to test out a wireless camera so thought why not :eek:....i believe you can get it on ebay also. been wanting to mess with the navi a while but tbh all the camera that you used to find before are well awful and just stick out like a sore thumb when installed. This fits in the existing light fitting and looks almost stock.

Here is the kit

reverse0.jpg


there is a wireless sender receiver, camera, and a standard video wire too if you don't want wireless. TBH i think these retail for well under £30 and cheaper if just the wired version and with that in mind the build is actually very good.

It's RoHS compliant, weatherproof and ok in low light. First off we need to make an adapter for the navi for the video in...you can find it on TSXclub but the pinouts are slightly different but still work.

Here are the parts you need/make up

reverse1.jpg


you need a 10way 0.1" socket that you need to mod to a 7way (oh yeah dremel :lol::) ) and you need to make a jumper(bottom right item). The socket (if it's from Maplins) will have the clip location for the inserted pins located at the bottom, this will be our reference orientation since the socket will only go into the navi connector one way.

Solder up the phono socket to the cable, i used cat 5e cable, but speaker wire or similar should be ok. once you've done that insert the phono socket cover and any heatshrinking etc you want to use BEFORE crimping/soldering the pins to the other end of the wire!

reverse2.jpg


After you soldered time to connect the pins. Now the pin numbers are counted left to right when referencing the connector on the DVD player. On TSXclub you see them jumping pin 6&7 and then connecting video + and GND to 5 & 2 respectively...like this

reverse3.jpg


this works but strictly video GND is pin 4, video signal is pin 5 and pin 2 is just ground, this is the config I used since i need the ground pin for the wireless receiver

reverse5.jpg


Time to take apart the car! Follow here to remove the ashtray

You need to remove the trim cover on the DVD player...now this can be a pain but there is a trick use lubricant. If this is the first time it's coming off it maybe stiff. If you can get a pry tool in from the top edge of the DVD player and pry it off slightly you can use the extension pipe from your lubricant to get into the space and spray the two clips

reverse6.jpg


It should come off easier after that. Once you've done that take the 4 10mm bolts holding the DVD down and 2 wire clips and withdraw it..you may want to use a some towels on the edge of your center console ..the brackets are sharp...some techs scratched my trim replacing the player when i got the car and i still notice it now :D

Once out you'll see something like this

reverse7.jpg


Plug A is the plug used for the adapter, the adapter will only go in orientated correctly since the pins are offset from centre. Plug B is the plug I used to tap into the 12V reverse power for the receiver.

reverse8.jpg


The green dotted line gives 12V when reverse is engaged. To tap into this i didn't use a snap lock or splice i simply inserted the wire into the rear since it looks like it's not fully crimped..looped the wire back and cable tied it, on the other end i used an insulated bullet connector. You can connect the reciver to these connections now.

reverse9.jpg


Now for the boot. This is held by 3 screw in rivets, 6 christmas tree fasteners and also the two rubber guards. to remove the rubber guards, pull up on the end of one side and then slide it out (see pic), this is what you're left with once the cover is removed..you don't need to remove the plastic pull handle.

reverse10.jpg
reverse11.jpg


Remove the light ***embly, held by 3x8mm bolts

reverse12.jpg


Then you can remove the plastic trim covering the license plate lights. This is held by 4 clips. you just pull gently. Once this is out you need to enlarge the opening to accommodate the camera...dremel and sandpaper :) i also touched it up after too.

reverse13.jpg
 
reverse14.jpg


remove the license plate light and test fit camera...i had to file the edge of the clip on the camera to make it clip in...I also used stick on foam on the back of the camera to prevent water ingress from the camera remove the license plate light and test fit camera...i had to file the edge of the clip on the camera to make it clip in...I also used stick on foam on the back of the camera to prevent water ingress from the camera

reverse15.jpg


Time to get the +ve and Ground for our wireless transmitter. I don't like using snaplocks in places which have a nice degree of movement so i soldered wires to +ve (green) and ground (black) on the reverse light (pic only show +ve you'll see why later)

reverse16.jpg


remove the metal plate which covers the boot lock mechanism, 2x8mm bolts. Also remove the 2 clips that are attached to it.

reverse17.jpg
reverse18.jpg


feed in the camera wires, you can see the plug for the light in the pic too.

reverse19.jpg


Now you need to light up the camera. You could splice into the license plate light connector, but there is a better way...you can use a modded computer power plug and pins.

reverse20.jpg


dremel off the excess plastic till you are only left with the centre two holes. Squash two off the pins, you will probably have to file the two sides of the pins to make them smaller also and there you have it.

reverse21.jpg


soldered this up to the camera wires, heat shrank it and connected it up (you can see where I marked the -ve on the original plug). Use cable tie to ensure it doesn't come off and then tied it up onto the release cable, and tested.

reverse22.jpg
reverse23.jpg


Time to wire up the transmitter. Here is how I did it first.

reverse24.jpg


...and this was when i connected the ground to the reverse light plug lol

Oh and here is a camera test when it was in the car

reverse25.jpg


and here is the finished article in the boot, all cable tied down and potential rattle point eliminated and added padding to the bit where the wire passes through the lock shield

reverse26.jpg
 
here is the end article

reverse27.jpg

REVIEW
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Well it works and pic quality is fine although seems slightly too highly exposed. It works fine in the dark but with the extra noise as expected. My only concern is that how long is the transmitter going to last in the boot :lol:...in all honesty it wouldn't have been what i would have bought...I'd probably just go for the wired version and go through the extra work routing the wires.

but since it was here thought I might as well try it for something new.

the positioning of the camera is also very good, you can see the outline of the bumper on the screen and it matches very well to the perceived distance. yes you have to get used to the fisheye effect but hey. Best of all is it looks almost OEM...the only reason i didn't do it earlier is purely because the other reverse cameras look awful!
 
Very nice writeup Alnug !
 
Great write up Alan i would love to do this myself.I put a post up yesterday about playing a DVD through the sat nav can this be done as well.
 
yes it can but i need to dig around i have the info somewhere..
 
Nice job Alan, looks better than my botch up job. You`re right about the over exposed picture, my wired camera is the same but it does the job.
 
Good diy guide :D This does look like a good job.

Has anyone seen or had any experience with the screens that clip over the rear view mirror? I don't have the satnav screen and am thinking of alternatives?
 
I've seen some rear view mirrors that actually have a screen built into them now..yep they're small though,.....i'm not sure they are available here yet but it would fit with what you're trying to achieve :D
 
Alnug

I'm really interested in getting this done on my car. Could you please give me a detailed picture and writeup of the connector you fabricated (which plugs into the dvd unit) as i'm a little confused which way up it is ect. I just don't want to wire it up wrong. Other than that its a top writeup
 
Shabz, I did mine like this one on the TSX forum:-

http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-gen-electronics/17965-backup-camera-install.html

But mine is the wired version.

I think Alan is saying he did his differently but mine works fine
 
yes..it's in plug B.

As for the connector erm if you get the item from maplins and match it to how I've laid it out you'll be fine.

Pin 6 and 7 are connected together
Pin 5 is the +ve video signal (the center of the phono) and pin 4 is the ground for the video

I'll probably make a few of these up for a modest fee :) since I have extra parts and wires...give me a shout if you want.

If there is enough interest I can contact my man and see if he can get me a nice deal on these :D or indeed the wired version
 
yes..it's in plug B.

As for the connector erm if you get the item from maplins and match it to how I've laid it out you'll be fine.

Pin 6 and 7 are connected together
Pin 5 is the +ve video signal (the center of the phono) and pin 4 is the ground for the video

I'll probably make a few of these up for a modest fee :D since I have extra parts and wires...give me a shout if you want.

If there is enough interest I can contact my man and see if he can get me a nice deal on these ;) or indeed the wired version


Thanks Alan
Well i've already purchased the connector and pins from maplin. Just now got to get the camera etc from fleabay.
I'll keep you guys posted
 
As usual what a great write up much appreciated. I had already done some research as I'm getting the bits together to do some video input project, so I just wanted to be a little pedantic and correct the pin layout for the socket. Here is the pin out from the manual:

1) Vcc for Honda camera.
2) Ground
3) Not used
4) Video ground
5) Video
6) Shield for Honda camera
7) Camera Detect

So pin 7 should be connected to pin 2, and video screen to pin 4 with video signal to pin 5. It works the way the TSX guys did it because the grounds eventually meet up, though if you are wiring up from scratch, (preferably using 75ohm screened video cable), then it makes sense to use the right pin layout. In practice its bad to mix signal grounds with power grounds, though in all likelihood in a case like this it won't cause a problem. Like I said just being a bit pedantic to get the wiring as its meant to be. Hope that hasn't offended anyone.
 
yep that's correct it should but the shielding for the honda camera will strictly be tied to ground also that's why i used it and also saves having a long loop of wire....but cheers for pointing it out B)

video pin 4 and 5 is what i used in the modified design....oh i don;t make it clear...I'll edit it..
 
yep that's correct it should but the shielding for the honda camera will strictly be tied to ground also that's why i used it and also saves having a long loop of wire....but cheers for pointing it out B)

video pin 4 and 5 is what i used in the modified design....oh i don;t make it clear...I'll edit it..


Nice write-up but the pictures attached seem to have gone AWOL; any chance of getting them back again, would love to look at the write-up again with the pictures attached.

thanks
 
you're right...i need to find out why!!! cheers

[edit] all fixed for you now!
 
Great DIY!! :D

Too bad I suck at this technical stuff.. :( Do you want to make the wires for me? :) :)
 
Hi Guys

Does anyone know what the pin outs are for the 6pin connector on the back of the pre-face lift model (2003 Model)
I'm ***uming there for the video input but I'm probably barking up the wrong tree

Cheers
Martin
 
Hi will u be interested to put reverse camera on my accord 7th gen. satnav if I paid you for installation ? I'd really love to get this done
 
Hi, digging up an old thread as I'm trying to get a reversing cam working in my 2003 CM2 Accord wagon. Its a JDM import, so things are a little different. The electronics are behind the panel over the right rear wheel arch just ahead of the sub woofer. I've made up the plug and cable as per Ezhiks post. When the plug is in the 7pin socket, but before connecting the cable, the display blanks when reverse is selected. With the camera connected, when reverse is selected there is a few seconds of video, diagonally rolling/ tearing then the screen blanks. Definitely got +12v to the camera and its properly grounded. Camera works fine when connected to AV socket of the house TV and powered from a 12v battery. Camera is supposed to be NTSC / PAL compatible.
Question is - do you have the CM2 wagons in the UK and has anyone successfully installed a reverse cam to one of them?

TIA
Peter
NZ
 
Just resurrecting this great post as I'm looking to install a reverse camera as well, haven't purchased it yet, but pretty much know what model/make it will most likely be it's not a wireless one like this one, but a wired one like this one here - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182235651801.

I also believe I'll need an adapter, which I could make myself for a few quid or purchase one like the one here - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175251558911

I'm most likely to employ the services of a professional to install it for me, though often I'll do some of the donkey work before giving my guy a call..

So, before I purchase the parts, does any one have any ideas what route the wiring would need to take from the rear boot lid to the DVD in the centre console?

Many thanks.
 
When I fitted mine I ran the wiring along the passenger side. Was on the 8th gen but guess it would be similar on a 7th?? Just removed the 2 cill covers brought cable out at the corner of rear seat tucking it under the plastic trims then ran it along with the existing wiring run.
You can buy the wireless transmitter/receiver seperately for not much and I fitted one to a previous car (mitsubishi delica) and it worked well. Made more sense with that as it was a pain to run the cable.
One of those jobs that's relatively easy just seems daunting before just getting stuck in. I'd be tempted to try doing DIY if I can do it anyone can. Worst case scenario it won't work and the professional will be a lot cheaper as the bits will be easier for them to access. Especially with this good guide that gives you where your positive feeds are etc.
 
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