6th Gen Handbrake adjustment

Hey everyone,
Searched all over the site and cannot find anything specific to the 6th gen. Can anybody give me some pointers on how to adjust the handbrake cable. there is some play in the lever, quite a bit actually. don't know if I need to adjust the cable or replace the handbrake altogether. It the was only thing on the NCT (Irish MOT) that came close to failing.

Thanks for all the help again
Andy

Hello...hopefully this will help

There are 3 screws to undo, then just grab at the lower back end and lift it up. Turn the adjusting nut (12mm I think) clockwise to tighten. Ideally lift the rear of the car, put the handbrake on the first notch and keep adjusting the nut until the rear wheel start to lightly drag whilst on the first notch

Screw 1 - lift the rubber protector


Screw 2 - slide the driver seat forward for easier access


Screw 3 -slide the passenger seat forward for easier access


Grasp the lower rear and lift


Adjusting nut - clockwise to tighten (don't overdo this incase the pads don't release - raise car, notch 1 handbrake, check for slight drag)


Fitting the reverse of removal. there are some clips/guides upfront of the cupholders - just make sure they are inside when before you screw it back together - you'll see what I mean when you put it back together.

Awesome 'How To' dude!!!!! Nice one.

luvmyaccord said:

Awesome 'How To' dude!!!!! Nice one.

Click to expand...

No probs Simon B)

If you have a deep socket and a u/j you can simply pop out the ashtray from the rear of that console and adjust it without taking any screws out at all.

Might be worth just checking the rear pads/calipers to make sure all working before adjusting cable.

AndyB1976 said:

Hello...hopefully this will help

There are 3 screws to undo, then just grab at the lower back end and lift it up. Turn the adjusting nut (12mm I think) clockwise to tighten. Ideally lift the rear of the car, put the handbrake on the first notch and keep adjusting the nut until the rear wheel start to lightly drag whilst on the first notch

Screw 1 - lift the rubber protector

Screw 2 - slide the driver seat forward for easier access

Screw 3 -slide the passenger seat forward for easier access

Grasp the lower rear and lift

Adjusting nut - clockwise to tighten (don't overdo this incase the pads don't release - raise car, notch 1 handbrake, check for slight drag)

Fitting the reverse of removal. there are some clips/guides upfront of the cupholders - just make sure they are inside when before you screw it back together - you'll see what I mean when you put it back together.

Click to expand...

That is a great how-to buddy. thabk you very much for it. will probably have a go next week.

Vtecdirect said:

If you have a deep socket and a u/j you can simply pop out the ashtray from the rear of that console and adjust it without taking any screws out at all.

Click to expand...

That is great Andy. Anything that saves me stripping the components suits me fine.

monkeyspanker said:

Might be worth just checking the rear pads/calipers to make sure all working before adjusting cable.

Click to expand...

I will do the cable first. There is play in the handbrake lever anyway before it even gets to the first click so there is some slack in the cable. I do suspect it is the brake its self but if I am not mistaken the handbrake is not connected to the pads at all but a break shoe inside the disk at least it was on all my previous cars and I do not want to strip all that if there is no need

On my 6th Gen there is no drum on the rear.

The pads are operated by a lever on the back of the caliper which forces the piston along a 'worm drive' mechanism You might wanna check your pads 'key' are aligned with the notches on the piston face. If you orientate the caliper so that the bolt holes are vertical, the piston notches should run horizontally to slip over the keyed pad.





Showing the cable just off my old 'seized' lever here

AndyB1976 said:

On my 6th Gen there is no drum on the rear.

The pads are operated by a lever on the back of the caliper which forces the piston along a 'worm drive' mechanism You might wanna check your pads 'key' are aligned with the notches on the piston face. If you orientate the caliper so that the bolt holes are vertical, the piston notches should run horizontally to slip over the keyed pad.

Showing the cable just off my old 'seized' lever here

Click to expand...

First off, do you take great pics of everything????? you are like a one man haynes Now that I know that it is not a drum handbrake I can say that my brakes are not the issue as they were just changed about a month ago and the problem was there long before that. so that has narrowed it down to the cable. Again I thank you sir for your very detailed pics and to everybody else that has helped with this. I love sites like this. It really shows you how over estimated mechanics are. Once you have the right info, the right tool and the balls to go near your car you can do anything.

Andy said:

First off, do you take great pics of everything????? you are like a one man haynes

Click to expand...

Pretty sure he does dude :lol: :lol: :lol: But aren't we all glad he does B)

Haha love it when I find how-to's with good pics, hats off to camera man
Now I want to check my cable lol