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Fuel Filter Change Facelift 7th Gen

CJM

Dr. Diesel
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Greater Manchester
Car
56 Accord Ex i-CTDI
Hi everyone I replaced my fuel filter at the weekend and there is not a guide for it so thought I'd do one

Ok firstly, my apologies for the lack of pictures, however due to the rain, diesel and the likelihood of throwing things I didn't take any!


Firstly may I point out that all credit for knowledge of changing the fuel filter on the face lift belongs to Monks (Andy) who kindly gave me some pointers and does and don’ts.

This is my take on it.


Firstly disconnect the battery negative first then positive (10mm spanner or socket)

Then remove black engine cover.

I found it best to remove the airbox, I also took the opportunity to replace the air filter at this point.

To remove the airbox.

• Looking into the engine, the airbox is on the right and there is a cable to the MAF sensor at the top, you need to disconnect this.

• Loosen the jubilee clip at the back of the box connecting it to a pipe

• Looking above the box towards the front you will see two 12mm bolts anchoring the box to the engine, you need to remove them.

• Disconnect pipe from box at back and front.

• Manoeuvre air box out of engine bay, slightly fiddly.

With the air box out of the way, look towards the back of the engine bay, you should see the priming pump in between a black metal holder. I found it best to remove the holder as follows:

• Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the front cover part of the holder, thus exposing the priming bulb, I used 10mm socket.

• Look to see how the rest of the holder is attached to bulkhead, use a 10mm socket on a small extension bar, maybe with a knuckle if required to remove the bottom bolt, be careful not to drop it.

• Using a 10mm ring key loosen the top bolt, you may then probably be able to move the bracket slightly to allow the socket to then remove the bolt fully.

• Rest bracket and priming bulb within engine bay being careful not to disturb pipework etc.

You should now be able to see the filter housing bracket and the fuel lines a little more clearly.

You now need to remove the filter housing bracket, I found the best way to do this as follows:

• There are three sensor connections one directly into the top which is roundish in shape, the second one is more squarish and can be located towards the back, you may just have to feel around for this, the third is connected to the water sensor by a relatively long cable at the bottom again a roundish connector in the bottom, the roundish connectors are quite easy to un-connect, they are also coloured inside, take a note of which colour goes where. The square connector is a little more difficult to un-connect, I suggest studying it a little while before trying to undo.

• On undoing the sensors you will note that there are cable clips connecting to the filter housing bracket (black bracket) these are attached by green clips, which have a release tab at the bottom, press the release tab and slide the clips off, there were two clips on mine.

• Next is the hardest part … there are two 10mm bolts holding the bracket onto the bulkhead, I found these relatively easy to remove, however I had a long socket bar and a knuckle joint together with a small socket bar all ½ “ It is important that you keep as straight a line onto the bolt head as you can, as they are close to the bracket and you could easily round them off if not careful. Dependent on hand and arm size you may be able to use a small ring key, but whether you would get enough leverage I’m not sure, well worth the investment in a long socket bar if you ask me.

• ***uming you have been successful in removing said bolts the bracket will no longer be connected to the bulkhead, enabling you to manoeuvre the filter around.

• On top of the filter where the pipes are you will see two 10mm bolts, you need to loosen these off, but do not remove yet.

• Using pliers, preferably long nose pliers, undo the clips holding the fuel lines, if unsure mark or draw which fuel line goes where. Squeeze the clips ears together to loosen the clip and slide along on the fuel line around 3cm to 4cm. Remove both lines and keep them upright to prevent fuel being spilt, you should be able to lodge them in a cable near the top of the engine bay.

• You will now almost be able to remove the filter, however you may find that there is still a cable clipped into the bracket, for me it was a yellow clip at the back which could be release by gentle squeezing with the pliers and pushing through the clip retaining hole.

• Finally remove the two bolts at the top left of the filter, that hold the filter housing to the bracket, then pull out the filter housing and cartridge keep the filter upright with the fuel pipes at the top.

• Put the filter in a container and drain the remaining fuel out, you don’t want this going everywhere.

Once you have done this you are at the point of no return, however please note that you have done the hard stuff, well almost!

To remove the canister from the filter housing do the following:

• Put the filter housing in a vice or workbench, something to grip, but not damage it, be careful of any pipes and sensors etc, the housing is squared off so use the squared end.

• Next you need to remove the white water sensor from the bottom, now this is plastic so be careful, I used stilsons gently, turn anticlockwise to loosen off, put the sensor in a clean location.

• Next remove the canister itself, I used an oil filter chain wrench, again carefully so not to puncture the canister just in case I needed to put it all back! Again in an anticlockwise direction.

• BEFORE you refit the canister make sure the filter housing is clean, to enable a good seal.

• You should have got with your replacement filter two “O-rings you now need to replace the “O-ring on the water sensor again cleaning the sensor first. The canister “O” ring should already be mounted on the canister.

• Tighten the canister onto the filter housing firstly hand tight and then pinch up with the oil filter wrench say a quarter of a turn, unless anyone advises more or less, please check for comments below.

• Re-fit the water sensor, again finger tight then pinching up with the stilsons/spanner.

Ok alls good so far now you’ve got to get it back in, I did it this way, but others may do it differently

• Put the canister and housing back into the black bracket and re-fit the two long 10mm bolts.

• Re-fit the fuel line from the priming pump to the inlet pipe (at the back) also check when re-fitting the fuel pipes on the routing of the pipe work, make sure they are clear.

• Do not fit the outlet fuel pipe yet!!

• Next get some rags etc and ensure that the area is covered to catch any diesel and start priming the system by squeezing the priming bulb, be careful as it does not take long to fill the canister. Keep going until diesel starts to flow out of the outlet pipe.

• Leave for say 10 minutes, I don’t know whether necessary but to allow for the filter to absorb the diesel.

• Pump the priming bulb again

• Once satisfied that the canister is full and as much air is out of the system, (it is worth spending a little bit of time on this) connect the outlet fuel pipe (which goes to the engine).

• Ensure clips are on correctly and holding pipes.

• Re-fit cable clip at back of bracket

• Tighten bolts on left-hand side of filter housing.

• Now the tricky bit, fit the filter bracket to the bulkhead using the bottom 10mm bolt first. Best to either see if you can get a bite holding the bolt with either fingers or within socket and small socket bar. Once in tighten up moderately so bracket can still move.

• Put top bolt in the bracket, mounting it to the bulkhead, you will have to align the bolt hole, remember to try and protect against dropping the bolt. Once you have done this it gets easier. Tighten bolts up firmly.

• Now you should have the filter back in position and bracketed onto the car, with fuel lines attached, now you need to re-attach the three sensors, ensuring you are connecting them back correctly, maybe worth giving them a wipe over also.

• You then need to re-connect the priming bulb bracket, but only the back part, leave the bulb exposed for now.

• Check everything is connected and tight

• Re-fit air box, taking care not to disturb MAF sensor but also remembering to refit MAF sensor connector.

• Re-connect battery live first then negative (check with manual)

• Prime fuel with priming bulb, it should go hard, if not you have a leak.

• Leave for five minutes and then re-prime until hard.

• Ensure all tools and rags are out of engine bay

• Do not refit engine cover (tempting fate in my opinion!)

• Start engine, if it does not start, prime and try again.

• Once engine started, may sound a little ropey, but will soon improve, hold revs a 2k for a couple of minutes then let go to idle, if idle dips and then returns, repeat 2K rev holding for a couple more minutes and then leave running for a little while on idle.

• Re-fit the outer part of priming bulb housing

• Re-fit engine cover ensuring nuts are tightened in a diagonal fashion like a wheel, don’t tighten too much either.

• Check you have no parts left, this is a must ;)

• Take on reasonable test drive, not forgetting wallet and phone!!! :lol:

Job done :eek:

I think I have remembered everything but please read any comments below as others may have a different take on things
 
Nice one - thanks for taking the time to post this, I've no doubt it will come in handy sometime. Candidate for a sticky ? ;)
 
Nice job carl ;)

I will add some pics from when I had mine changed which may help a bit

Filter.jpg

wrench.jpg
 
Another excellent addition ;)
 
Hi All,
Good to finally find this site, after losing the other one!!!

I have browsed the forums and wonder if anyone can help me with below (anything is appreciated).

I have 2.2 Diesel Exec, which suddenly on sunday went into limp mode (no revs over 2k, glow plug light flashing) etc, this occured when I went to accelerate hard on a dual carriageway.

Got home and did the 3x restart and all was well..........until this morning (did the school run etc first thing, when came to restart mid-morn - nothing (engine would turn over but not start. I kept at it every few mins and eventually (after about 6-7 mins) it did restart. Driving home decided to try and clog it - to see if error occurred (and it did, probably after 3-4 hard accellerations)..light came on and no revs over 2k.

Back home again - did the 3x restart and is fine again.

I have noticed that the fuel filter has not been changed for at least 60'000 miles (my fault as I use an independant mobile guy), I suspect that this is the cause of my problem, but wanted some second opinions!!!

Thanks again
Carl
 
Fuel filter would be the first place to start and yes it sounds like the classic symptoms. I would however MAKE SURE its a Genuine honda fuel filter as these engines are very picky on having genuine Honda filters
 
Hi, Carl, browse again, this is like a long playing record on here!
 
Now you should know as an old THAOC member

Genuine Fuel filter, replaced on time = HONDA HAPPY

60K since the last one, surprised you got that far.

Once you get it changed or follow the DIY full service, then everything should be OK again!!
 
I had this the other week with mine changed the filter and so far so good

like the others say use genuine the one on my car fitted by me about 20,000 miles ago was pattern but was still Bosh the same as genuine but didn't go the course
 
Yep agree with all the guys deff the FF.Its not the easiest job to do but there are DIY'S here how to do it.If your not confidant Honda charged me £36 labour only to change mine.
 
I think it's the flux capacitor :eek:
 
Brilliant write-up Carl, thanks.

This will really help if I go over to the dark side.
 
I believe it's more a question of when rather than if Cliff :D
 
Just did the 100k service on my car last weekend and used CJM's very helpful guide on changing the fuel filter. I took some pics in the process so I thought I'd add them to the thread.

I found the guide pretty much spot on with everything covered. I didn't have the Honda tool to unscrew the filter so had to improvise like CJM. One thing to note, when you are unscrewing the white sensor on the bottom of the filter you can remove the grey sensor sockets from the housing which prevents the cable twisting as you unscrew the sensor.

The car is now like new after the service. The air filter was horrendous and I'm suprised the car even worked. Still satisfying to get it all sorted now.
 
Just did the 100k service on my car last weekend and used CJM's very helpful guide on changing the fuel filter. I took some pics in the process so I thought I'd add them to the thread.

I found the guide pretty much spot on with everything covered. I didn't have the Honda tool to unscrew the filter so had to improvise like CJM. One thing to note, when you are unscrewing the white sensor on the bottom of the filter you can remove the grey sensor sockets from the housing which prevents the cable twisting as you unscrew the sensor.

The car is now like new after the service. The air filter was horrendous and I'm suprised the car even worked. Still satisfying to get it all sorted now.

Excellent Jamie,

Glad you found it easy to follow, I did most from memory, so there is always that chance you miss something, but glad to know you found everything Ok.

Are you going to post the pictures up later?
 
That's funny, I did post some pics up. I had a quote of your original post with some of my pics inserted at the relevent points, seems to have gone walkies...

Well here they are again:

Primer pump with bracket/cover.
IMAG0054.jpg


You can see the primer pump at the top of the photo here:
IMAG0053.jpg


The aluminium casting is on top of the filter:
IMAG0055.jpg


This pic shows the fuel filter still in its housing. You can see the 3 connectors on the back (2 grey and 1 white), this is what you are fumbling around for do disconnect.
IMAG0063.jpg
 
Jamie, apologies that was my fault.
 
Just a quick shout out to say thanks for the info. Finally changed my fuel filter today. Took a bit of time but all went well. Biggest hassle was actually removing the filter from the housing using an oil filter chain tool. Whoever installed it tightened it up to the nuts. In the end the old filter deformed completely.

Anyhow all done and working fine now.
 
Little tip if your having problems getting the filter off the housing whack a big screw driver thru the filter body and it will turn easier.
 
Little tip if your having problems getting the filter off the housing whack a big screw driver thru the filter body and it will turn easier.
:lol: The best way i used to get oil filters off this way in my younger days.
 
I changed mine at the weekend, I clamped the housing in a work bench and used one of them oil filter removal cups from Laser to remove the cartridge. Popped straight off! It was the easiest part of the operation. :)
 
Well I finally got round to changing mine this afternoon. What a performance! However, once all was done and there were no bits left over I decided that it was actually an easy enough job for anyone to do. The hardest part is getting the damn filter back in on those two silly bolts. You definately need a knuckle adapter for your socket set and a pair of filter pliers. I finally set up my vice for getting the filter off its housing using said pliers.

Surely Honda could have come up with an easier access design!?!?!?

Thanks Carl for your right up - came in handy to conform what had to be done when. The procedure is easy, only made difficult by the pants access. Rep pointage added :D. Thanks too to brett for seling me his spare filter!


In changing it I have (probably placebo) noticed the car is a bit smoother through the revs. I had thought the car was getting a little lumpy and wasn't pulling as well as I remembered. It seems to be much better now. There was a little blip in the engine speed just before the boost and that has gone. I wonder though how much that is due to the ECU relearning the car after the battery was off for so long.

I wonder too if the flashing glow plug issue I get when the tank is low? I certainly think Honda Letchworth DIDN'T change the filter when i asked them!

Life would have been easier if the missus hadn't decided to clean hte inside of the car at the same time. I kept having to take the battery in and out so she could move the firgging seats and open/close the boot. the dude was driving his tractor round and round too and managed to clout both wings with the shovel on the front. The resulting scratches will buff out thankfully :(

Whole job took 2.5 hours, but that would have been halved without the distractions and rain running down my butt crack :lol:

Had to get my neighbour to hoild the filter in polace whilst I got the first bolt into the bracket. Those were dropped twice, but luckiily they fell straight through and onto the tarmac. :ph34r:

Still the new TA shirt was fully baptised in V-Power. :D
 
well done Dan your a braver man than me.
Im glad you made full use of the ff lol
 
Tell you what, my back is killing me :lol:

My hands are too big as well. Jacking the car up didn't help either :(
 
Well I finally got round to changing mine this afternoon. What a performance! However, once all was done and there were no bits left over I decided that it was actually an easy enough job for anyone to do. The hardest part is getting the damn filter back in on those two silly bolts. You definately need a knuckle adapter for your socket set and a pair of filter pliers. I finally set up my vice for getting the filter off its housing using said pliers.

Surely Honda could have come up with an easier access design!?!?!?

Thanks Carl for your right up - came in handy to conform what had to be done when. The procedure is easy, only made difficult by the pants access. Rep pointage added :D. Thanks too to brett for seling me his spare filter!


In changing it I have (probably placebo) noticed the car is a bit smoother through the revs. I had thought the car was getting a little lumpy and wasn't pulling as well as I remembered. It seems to be much better now. There was a little blip in the engine speed just before the boost and that has gone. I wonder though how much that is due to the ECU relearning the car after the battery was off for so long.

I wonder too if the flashing glow plug issue I get when the tank is low? I certainly think Honda Letchworth DIDN'T change the filter when i asked them!

Life would have been easier if the missus hadn't decided to clean hte inside of the car at the same time. I kept having to take the battery in and out so she could move the firgging seats and open/close the boot. the dude was driving his tractor round and round too and managed to clout both wings with the shovel on the front. The resulting scratches will buff out thankfully :(

Whole job took 2.5 hours, but that would have been halved without the distractions and rain running down my butt crack :lol:

Had to get my neighbour to hoild the filter in polace whilst I got the first bolt into the bracket. Those were dropped twice, but luckiily they fell straight through and onto the tarmac. :ph34r:

Still the new TA shirt was fully baptised in V-Power. :D

Excellent job Dan,

Glad the guide helped and thanks for the rep point.

Sounds like you did extremely well with all the other distractions !

Next one will take less than half the time.
 
Just wondering if this is a similiar technique when doing the i-Dtec?? Has anyone out there done the fuel filter on the 8th Gen Accord?
 
Hi all, this thread is gold. Fingers crossed for me that this the same filter and process for a '54 i-CDTI tourer exec? If this is the case could somebody advise exactly what filter to buy and ideally somewhere trustworthy to get one from?
 
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