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I would think it would be seen mostly when giving it the beans, so it doesn't quite fit no was the fuel rail new or used? I ask because starting issues have been attributed to sticking/faulty relief valves in the rail

if there are no leaks on the filter or housing, could it be the sock-like pickup filter/strainer in the tank getting clogged up by running the tank low? if it is, it will deny proper flow to filter and consequently pump and rail and cause symptoms much like a clogged fuel filter if it was a pipe...

you're not dealing with massive amounts of pressure on an egr cooler so I'm sure it'll hold up just fine without the flared bit, but I would probably prefer an ordinary hose clamp over a spring loaded type. good stuff

I've destroyed my front and rear fenders(rears, which I recently fixed.....) to fit larger wheels/plastic flares. not a fan of the flares but I have new fenders out in the garage for a detachable steel "widebody" project, I'm going to need a MOT set and everyday set also in the garage...

have you tried running your vin through lings? they sometimes have new old stock in a storeroom somewhere, and if all else fails you may be able to find a part number

Vtec solenoid mesh filter/debris trap may be clogged without throwing a code, had a CR-V at work with similar symptoms

If you have a petrol, the only thing to worry about is dual vs single control If you have a diesel, the only unit proven to work is the junsun v1 mentioned in this thread https://clubhondaspirit.com/foro/topic/150402-solucionado-problema-de-las-radios-chinas-en-i-ctdi-7th/page-1 dual vs...

what type of soundproofing did they use? I've got 80 sheets of silentcoat 2mm I've been itching to use but can't seem to find the time right now

I cannot speak for the connects2 solution, but my grom bt3 occupies the aux multiplug on the back and reads as cdc/cd changer, my 6 disc head unit has also retained all functions

2 bolts and 2 nuts per side is all it takes on the wagon

ebay, all4honda or risingtuning

not him(obviously) but atr calipers will clear any oem 17in wheel for the 7th gen, and most 16s too

right :p then yes, it will fit, but with a few caveats: pre-facelift (03-05) petrol bumpers do not fit diesel models fog lights(if you have them) are different between pre-facelift and facelift some trim levels were not sold with headlight washers

EUDM and USDM bumpers are not interchangeable the cl7-8-9/cn1 EUDM/JDM accords were also not sold as coupes, only sedan

bushings come in all shapes and sizes, but finding the right one might be tricky can confirm polyurethane sealant works, have used betaseal and sikatack elite - the latter definitely cures faster and has a bit more give when cured. always use an activator for best results :p

measure i/d and o/d and replace with generic poly bushing?

no, they shouldn't be. what bilsteins are you looking at? my b6 units can go on either side, the spring collar rotates, and if memory serves stock can too even if the collar doesn't rotate

no problem, hope it works out!

since the plug serves two functions I would make a test lamp with two lengths of copper wire, a paper clip and a 12v bulb, attach one end of the copper wire to a good ground like the locking bar and then probe one pin on the plug at a time with wire + paper clip, as you're using the keyfob to...

typically on the locking mechanism but sometimes also activated by a plunger or rod. but for the accord it's a 3 prong plug, it grounds through the body and one is for release signal and the other two are for the continuity check(I think) the "easy" way to do this is to pry the shielding/casing...