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I can tell you that the ESM replacement procedure does not call for engine removal and fluid drain bar gear oil. I can print out the procedure to a pdf for you but I recommend this excellent video as reference. the only thing he skips bar torque specs is pressure plate preload with a sac tool

no problem I paid £579 ex vat for the kit with a LUK dual mass flywheel, coxmotorparts sells the kit without dmf for about £300 It's probably fair to say that the LUK set 100% identical to the OE honda set since they're the OE supplier, but if it's anything like other pattern parts vsOE parts...

gallery here

yeah, I'll snap you some pictures of one this weekend, got an oe honda set laid in the garage waiting for install

yeah, 22105-PGE-325, revised pressure plate

the embossed acura logo is the only difference between the two sets of calipers, the acura rl is a honda legend and vice versa I can't say here nor there whether you'll need a larger brake master, but you should definitely consider it, as they are sized according to the application. for example...

corrosion, galvanic or otherwise is your only concern. rear calipers on the cl7 euro r are cast aluminium and it's unlikely they fail any more or less than the cl9 cast iron variant bmw and audi have been making cast aluminium spindles/uprights/control arms for 20+ years, it's not a problem...

did you perform other work on the engine at the same time? not critical of your method, just curious because I'm doing this job at some point this year and I can't imagine a world where it would be easier to remove the engine harness, ac compressor, ps pump, catalytic converter, fuel lines etc...

thanks, and good luck :)

if I ever get around to it I'll probably black out all the interior chrome, other than that I think the 7th gen still looks pretty modern I like the switchable amber idea, see a lot of volvos and bmws here with chromed ambers in their park/drls and it can look pretty smart

these head bolts are reusable(if within spec), and you torque them to angle rather than torque to yield which stretches the bolt and typically instructions for these would give you a specific torque target for all steps rather than torque + angle so you would torque these to 49nm, then start...

well, looking at the wiring diagram in the ESM, the ELD's function looks to be(true to its name) detecting electric load and then signaling the ecm to trigger charging signal if conditions are met it's worth a shot, hopefully it doesn't cost an arm and a leg. ESM states it is integral to the...

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yeah they'll fit, but bolt size may be different despite pattern being identical, and the bracket may be offset differently requiring a spacer behind the disc, or washers between the bracket and dog leg - depending on which way it is offset the brakes thread is still relevant and mostly up to...

shhh don't mock us :( we're essentially third worlders in a first world country

it's on your sender unit in the tank

if you catch them early these don't tend to be that bad, the service interval is 50 000km anyway. Just done 4 on gfs sedan and they all came out with a wiggle once the forks were out, though she did take it for a longish drive beforehand. didn't let the engine cool before disassembly I know...

the rear frame rails on these are capped so unless it replaces the rear crash bar I'm pretty sure you'll have to snake some locking plates with studs through the big holes under the rails. it'll be clear as day when you receive the kit anyhow

nah the strut mount is held in place by the weight of the car and nothing below it can squeeze past it unless the bottom bushing is totally crumbled. in which case you need it out anyway you'll be fine, just don't lift the car :p

good luck :)