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Yep the idtec is a different engine entirely and has a different torque profile and characteristic. A decent stage 1 really unleashes their potential though.

C3 has some fairly abrasive additives that are used to help break down the ash dilution from the dpf, that’s what gives it the ‘low saps’ rating. An older (and ironically often cheaper) C2 without these abrasives are better for your engine in my opinion. But the key is it’s only better if the...

Brand isn’t important in my opinion, viscosity and ratings are. Fundamentally if your dpf is still present then stick to a C3 low saps 0w30 and if it isn’t then I would recommend a 0w30 C2 instead.

Ensure you use genuine Honda ATF for the gearbox, and enjoy.

Thanks for the feedback Abz, glad you’re enjoying it.

You need the correct tool for this job, genuine one from Honda is available it’s not mega money.

It’s almost definitely a cracked egr pipe. We solve them regularly. Drop me a message for details.

Did you take any pictures? Would be helpful for other members

Investigate what’s causing the high emissions output and solve it. The car is likely over fuelling, could be down a number of things including a bad egr, bad injectors or a boost leak.

Welcome

I’m not normally a fan of these mods but that looks very nice!

If you can’t see the reset service indicator option it means your maintenance minder has been disabled (either at PDI or later by someone with a HDS). Once disabled, it can’t be re-enabled as far as I’m aware.

Both those are facelift bumpers but the second pic is a pre facelift car (see the chrome strip and bonnet profile are different)

Almost definitely yes, especially if it just started suddenly.

If it’s something that has developed suddenly then that’s something different. Might be something as simple as tyre pressures, try running a higher psi. It may even be a failing tyre compound.

It’s the difference in sidewall reduction when you go from 16 to 17 that causes it.

If you’re on 17s and above then this is sadly a trait of the 7th gen Accord. Try temporarily switching to 16s and see if it eliminates it. Ensure you stick to correct rolling radius. 17s should be on 225/45/17

Not read the thread but shocks might yes but most likely your wishbone arm compliance bushes.

Was it low on transmission fluid by any chance? Can’t think what else would link these scenarios together.

It can’t..