2.2 dtec egr location
- Thread starter Alexh22
- Start date
The egr is at the rear of the block, and exhaust manifold at the front under the heat shield. The bypass pipe runs from the front to the rear and it typically cracks on the elbow. Best way to diagnose a cracked egr pipe on these is to run the engine and on idle have a sniff around the area between the battery and the engine block. If you can smell any fumes, chances are it’s cracked. We see them all the time and on the ones that are more moderately cracked you’ll actually hear the leak and also see soot deposits all over the airbox and battery..
Thank you f6had, that's really useful.
I don't think mine is cracked from that description, but I still want to rule it out. It just sounds a bit noisy around the downpipe area.(gutted dpf before my ownership). No ticking but just a bit more noise than I'd expect.
I can have a nose and see if there is a blanking plate off the exhaust side. The original tuner can't remember if the egr was shut off as part of the map.
I don't think mine is cracked from that description, but I still want to rule it out. It just sounds a bit noisy around the downpipe area.(gutted dpf before my ownership). No ticking but just a bit more noise than I'd expect.
I can have a nose and see if there is a blanking plate off the exhaust side. The original tuner can't remember if the egr was shut off as part of the map.
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You could spray some soapy water in the location and try starting up from cold.
Injector seal ? It might be noise off the bonnet lid. Some warm water around the cylinder head area will show up any blowing.
Injector seal ? It might be noise off the bonnet lid. Some warm water around the cylinder head area will show up any blowing.
They might have gutted or damaged your cat too, I’ve seen this done a few times by garages that don’t understand what they’re doing. This will cause a lot of resonance inside the empty chamber. Have a sniff at the rear of the car, if it smells kinda pungent and even burns your eyes a little then your cat is missing.
@F6HAD, I can't seem to see a typical egr pipe running from the turbo area, around the battery side and to the egr at the rear. Are they the usual steel pipe with the rippled sections at the bends?
Is the egr pipe typically under the alloy boost pipe section that's on the side of the block?
I need to get the heat shield off to see if it's been bunged and removed , but does that require the lambda sensor to be removed first? With the heat sheild bolts removed I could not seem to angle it to have a nose underneath as the exhaust sensor and turbo actuator blocked its movement
Thanks if you can shed some light on this
Is the egr pipe typically under the alloy boost pipe section that's on the side of the block?
I need to get the heat shield off to see if it's been bunged and removed , but does that require the lambda sensor to be removed first? With the heat sheild bolts removed I could not seem to angle it to have a nose underneath as the exhaust sensor and turbo actuator blocked its movement
Thanks if you can shed some light on this
Edit, I've ordered a 22mm oxygen sensor socket to have a closer investigation
Really appreciate your reply F6had. I was hoping it was a thin plate.
I'd better investigate if the map has it closed then. No fumes/smell between battery and block area but there might be some old deposits on top of the gear box. Looks an absolute nightmare to change.
I'd better investigate if the map has it closed then. No fumes/smell between battery and block area but there might be some old deposits on top of the gear box. Looks an absolute nightmare to change.
Egr plate is now in, no issues so far.
No leaks or anything untoward around the downpipe. If anything it sounds worse with the heat shield on.
Slight rattle on start up, I'm unsure if it's dmf or maybe a glow plug as there is a puff of unburnt fuel on first start. No errors on a simple scanner but I ***ume I'll need Honda diagnostic to check if glow plugs are working.
No leaks or anything untoward around the downpipe. If anything it sounds worse with the heat shield on.
Slight rattle on start up, I'm unsure if it's dmf or maybe a glow plug as there is a puff of unburnt fuel on first start. No errors on a simple scanner but I ***ume I'll need Honda diagnostic to check if glow plugs are working.
Are your dpf sensors connected? Differential pressure sensor on the slam panel and exhaust temp sensor in the dpf? If they’re not connected then chances are you have a cowboy solution with simple error suppression. It’s also a straight giveaway in an mot.