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2.2 i-dtec turbo stop screw

csak1981

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Just wondering if somebody with a 2.2 i-dtec could check if the turbo actuator arm touches the stop screw on turbo housing at idle after starting engine. I never seem to see another 2.2 i-dtec like mine in the car parks when out and about hoping to ask the owner of I could have a wee check on theirs.

Recently changed turbo cartridge on mine as turbo was starting to whine a little and I matched up the actuator arm length adjustment exactly to the old cartridge however it's not touching the stop screw at idle when I'm pretty sure it did before.
Car feels like it's boosting a bit too early so probably explains it that the screw is to far back.

Turbo vanes are completely free as I cleaned them whilst everything was apart and I've checked actuator range of motion with mityvac vacuum pump. I can get it to touch stop screw at roughly 15inhg when applying vacuum with the pump and it holds pressure so actuator looks good.
 

stellamon

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Did a new cartridge fix the whine/whistle? Mine has always whistled since owning it, I thought it was normal.

This is mine at idle, hard to get a good shot:

 

csak1981

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That's great thanks for checking. Could you confirm though is it actually touching the stop? Mine looks like it is but i can pull it up with my finger an extra little bit then it hits the stop.

The new cartridge did stop the whine but i still think it's setup incorrect. I tried reducing length of actuator arm so that it hit the stop at idle but when i rev engine at idle the whine came back worse than before as it would spool up to fast so I've set it back longer and now i have the gap again.

I don't think there was anything wrong with the old cartridge now as there was no play on shaft and no damage to turbine or compressor wheels.

I tell you what happened leading up to all this. I did a wheel spin to excite the kids and when wheels got grip i over revved into the red in 1st gear only for a second and since then i got the whine so i think i upset something. As i say old cartridge checked out fine when removed from car.

You say yours has always whistled which is fine probably just normal spool up whistle your hearing. Mine was a definite whine/ siren noise that lagged behind the revs when they settled on blipping the throttle which wasn't there before i went into the red. You may just be confusing the whine that comes from your i-dtec engine which apparently they all have and is normal mine has it also, that sounds like a mechanical whine that rises and lowers in pitch with revs.

I'm really just trying to dial in this new cartridge, I'm suspecting the vane lever is welded on slightly off to the old one meaning i need to play around with the actuator arm length and stop screw.

These new cartridges are only tested for wheel balance i don't think they test them for flow. They would need to slap on a vane lever ***embly, turbine and compressor housing and actuator on every cartridge they test. You would need to buy a complete turbo with actuator as any refurbers that know what they are doing can hook them up to a flow bench and dial in the actuator and stop screw for min and max flow within safe limits.
 

stellamon

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That's great thanks for checking. Could you confirm though is it actually touching the stop?
Not without closer inspection, very difficult to see but it did seem like there was a small gap
 

csak1981

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If you could check for me that would be great. I've noticed with mine i got my father to start engine whilst i looked at its movement. It seems to move to stop screw for around a second then as revs settle it moves away around 2mm.

What I've learned from all this is if going down the route of buying a new cartridge only, once mounted to turbo your best to take it to a refurb place where it can be bench flow tested and setup up optimally me thinks
 
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csak1981

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Can anyone else check to see if they have gap at idle as I'm convinced mine rested on stop screw at idle with old cartridge. Going from the data on my hds diagnostics at idle it says requested position 80% or 88% (can't remember which) and actual reading matches the requested. So I'm guessing the remaining 20% or 12% would make up the distance to stop screw to make 100%
 

csak1981

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Could anybody else have a wee look to see how theirs sits at idle, gap or no gap

Cheers in advance
 
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