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2.2 iDTEC (150) tuning potential

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Andreslopez

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Accord 2.2 I-DTEC
What are the N22B1 (150hp) capable of without major components changes, such as conrods, injectors, etc.

Previous owner put a remap on mine from a local tuning company, DPF and EGR removed, but it feels a little flat top end and torque isn’t what I’d expect a mapped diesel to put out. I’ve since stuck a much bigger aftermarket intercooler on, removed all the restrictive tubing out of the air box and stuck a cold air feed from the front fog light and also plan on removing both ****lers (centre and rear).

The Type S remap to 230hp. Is that achievable on the 150 models?
 
You can hit around 215bhp with a quality intercooler. Type S turbocharger has a different internal core and cylinder head, not to mention a stronger clutch.
 
F6HAD said:
You can hit around 215bhp with a quality intercooler. Type S turbocharger has a different internal core and cylinder head, not to mention a stronger clutch.
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Type S clutch being done in November so no worries on that front. Could 220hp be hit with aggressive mapping?
 
You could go down the slimming route which would improve handling at the same time as helping stright line stuff.

There was a thread on this a few years back.
 
Channel Hopper said:
You could go down the slimming route which would improve handling at the same time as helping stright line stuff.

There was a thread on this a few years back.
Click to expand...
I’ve got a stripped out turbo mx5 for track and road play. The Honda is my comfy car haha
 
Andreslopez said:
What are the N22B1 (150hp) capable of without major components changes, such as conrods, injectors, etc.

Previous owner put a remap on mine from a local tuning company, DPF and EGR removed, but it feels a little flat top end and torque isn’t what I’d expect a mapped diesel to put out. I’ve since stuck a much bigger aftermarket intercooler on, removed all the restrictive tubing out of the air box and stuck a cold air feed from the front fog light and also plan on removing both ****lers (centre and rear).

The Type S remap to 230hp. Is that achievable on the 150 models?
Click to expand...
I believe the best base to start with a recently acquired car is a good engine flush and quality oil, full service. Check the turbo actuator arm is opening the vanes fully. It can be easily done without removing turbo which is quite accessible from the front of the car. You can operate it using a long screwdriver. Also if the egr isn't closing properly due to soot etc. that can affect acceleration and mpg. I recently bought a type S which wasn't any quicker than my 150bhp idtec, checked turbocharger actuator arm, found it was only moving 70%. Freed up and noticeable difference. Dipetane is a brilliant fuel additive which improves the burn capacity of any fuel. It will help clean injectors and improve emissions. Removing and cleaning out the turbo and checking it's mechanical operation is okay probably is best . You'd be surprised how well these engines free up when they are treated right. I'm on my 3rd idtec, love them.
 
hazza said:
I believe the best base to start with a recently acquired car is a good engine flush and quality oil, full service. Check the turbo actuator arm is opening the vanes fully. It can be easily done without removing turbo which is quite accessible from the front of the car. You can operate it using a long screwdriver. Also if the egr isn't closing properly due to soot etc. that can affect acceleration and mpg. I recently bought a type S which wasn't any quicker than my 150bhp idtec, checked turbocharger actuator arm, found it was only moving 70%. Freed up and noticeable difference. Dipetane is a brilliant fuel additive which improves the burn capacity of any fuel. It will help clean injectors and improve emissions. Removing and cleaning out the turbo and checking it's mechanical operation is okay probably is best . You'd be surprised how well these engines free up when they are treated right. I'm on my 3rd idtec, love them.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that mate.

I always flush the engine with new to me cars and on every second oil change. From a service perspective this iDTEC of mine is tip top. Oil and filter every 6k miles, new fuel filter every 20k and air filter every other oil change - also run 2 stroke oil and archoil 6900D with every tankful.

I’m pretty sure my turbo actuator is working fine, the arm moves freely when pulled and pushed with pliers, but what’s the best way to check?
 
It needs to be checked on a HDS for functional test, but if it’s moving cleanly by hand and you can’t feel any sticking or high spots then it should be fine.
 
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