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2.4 petrol battery

-Rich-

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Rickmansworth
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2.4 Tourer Auto
I know there are plenty of threads on this but I can't find a conclusive answer on what would fit. I've had a genuine Honda one for just under the last 4 years and it's not holding a full charge any more. Unfortunately Holdcroft can no longer send batteries out and they've also increased in price a lot!

With the battery being an odd size I'm wondering what people are fitting now. I've found this one which I think should be ok but I'm a little unsure of the height as I know there isn't much slack in the positive cable.

 
Yes these do fit the 7th and 8th Gen 2.4s. Better starting performance than my last OEM one which died the moment the 3 year warranty expired. I'm using one myself.
 
Doesn't seem quite old enough for it to be dying especially in a petrol, sure it's battery and not charging circuit?

Is your battery bay full? You can see from the battery ad you posted there are battery dimensions so just make sure your existing battery measurements match up.

The alternator and starter motor are fairly new and have not covered much mileage. The battery is losing charge even when off the car. Unfortunately it's lack of use and short journeys that are killing it.

Yes these do fit the 7th and 8th Gen 2.4s. Better starting performance than my last OEM one which died the moment the 3 year warranty expired. I'm using one myself.

Great, that's good to know, I'll order one and 5 years warranty from Tayna too.

I'm ***uming the plastic housing won't fit over it and does the original clamp still fit ok?
 
Yes the clamp definitely fits but not the housing. One or both the terminals (can't remember exactly) is the smaller Japanese size but it should come with post adapter(s).
 
update us on what happens, as I've been looking at buying a battery with higher cca for my 2.4 accord, as the original one(420cca) is the exact same as the one in my 2.0 accord, and the 2.4 has a slightly sluggish start then my 2.0, event though the 2.0 has nearly 200k miles on it and 2.4 hasn't even touched 70k.
Been quite tempted with 500cca ones on euro car parts, but unfortunately the width is the problem, as they're around 175mm whereas the current one is 125mm.
 
I've even tried swapping battries between both, but still the 2.4l has a slow start on that battery.
 
Yes the clamp definitely fits but not the housing. One or both the terminals (can't remember exactly) is the smaller Japanese size but it should come with post adapter(s).

Thanks, just ordered it. My battery was reading 11.9v this morning. When the car is running it's 14v so the alternator is fine. Should be anyway as it's fairly new.

Yes it comes with post adapters looking at the spec. The positive on mine was loose even on the genuine one so I had to pack it out with a copper shim.

I've even tried swapping battries between both, but still the 2.4l has a slow start on that battery.

Mine starts very quickly even with the battery in a poor condition. If you swapped them over and it's still sluggish I'd look at the starter motor and try cleaning the ground cable.
 
are you talking about the ground cable that connects battery to car chassis or any other grounds as well?
 
The battery one and also the wires to the starter motor.

It looks like I might have a drain as although I only do short journeys the new battery was reading 12.55v last night and 12.25v this morning. That's the first time I've checked the voltage since fitting it. With the car running it was 14.15v and after driving to work it was 13.9v which seems too low.

The alternator is a Denso one just not Honda branded. I bought it 3 years a go and it's only covered 3.5k miles so I'm hoping it's not that.
 
ah one thing just remembered, sometimes when I'm starting the car, and don't quickly fully turn the ignition I hear slight grinding noise... to mitigate that I just turn the ignition full quickly..
but is that grinding noise pointing towards starter motor?

reason I've noticed this is, coz I dont get that in the CL7
maybe a weak battery(I cant be coz the same battery used to start the CL7 nice and smooth)?
 
ah one thing just remembered, sometimes when I'm starting the car, and don't quickly fully turn the ignition I hear slight grinding noise... to mitigate that I just turn the ignition full quickly..
but is that grinding noise pointing towards starter motor?

reason I've noticed this is, coz I dont get that in the CL7
maybe a weak battery(I cant be coz the same battery used to start the CL7 nice and smooth)?
That grinding noise i bet is actually a worn ignition barrel causing a short circuit.I had exact same symtom which eventually led to being unable to start car.
Simple to replace and the electronic part of the ignition cost me around £15 if memory serves my right.
 
Yup thats the one! I didn't buy a genuine honda switch as shown here,i bought an aftermarket one off ebay (18 months ago) which fitted perfecly as has worked just fine.I did watch through this video just to give me an idea of job but as you can see simple enough.
I will try find the one i bought maybe its still available?
 
Sorry item i purchased not available now...cant even give the part# but it was shipped from china and cost me just £8.43 lolScreenshot_20200924-121439_eBay_compress78.jpg
 
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If you not in a rush this what you need or a couple of UK sellers have same at £15 with faster shipping
 
awesome mate... that's really helpful

first I'll try and see if it is the ignition switch, as the car does start whenever my wife does it without the buzzing sound... I'm guessing it might be just me coz my CL7 is really soft to start and starts up nicely even in cold weather...
whereas the CL9 is the one that sometimes buzzes a bit while starting.

will probably try and swap the ignition switch between both cars and see if the CL9 starts get better or not(but it does sound like a time consuming job)
wish I had like a really big garage or 2 garages
 
infact when you took your old switch out, were there any visible signs of being worn down switch?

just wondering if you can visibly tell if the switch is on its way, so I don't have to go all the way and get the switch outa the other car

I know we're going towards another lockdown and working from home for another 6months, but still wanna see if there's an easy way out
 
Honestly its easy to swap out....couple of screwdrivers and less than 1 hour i did mine where it was parked in the street.As for signs of wear there will be none.Only thing you may feel is when turning key it feels "sloppy" where as it should be tight and precise with no wiggle.The wear is internal within the moving parts and the copper/steel workings just deteriorate over time as with any moving part.
Personally id just change it as it costs peanuts it will almost certainly wear out eventually.
 
ah I swear the cars trying to mess with me...
so I went out somewhere and had in my list to order the switch soon as I get back, and the cars been sittin there, so decided to give it a start and check to see the buzz just for checkin sake, and it didn't, just started quickly and smoothly... and I was like, ok, gave it another few goes with turning the ignition like sloppy Jo and it still didn't and started up nicely without any buzzing..
then this morning it was nice and cold, so wife was taking the car, I specifically listened to and paid attention to the car starting bit, and it just did nicely... buttery smooth start..
o_O
 
I mean its her car, so before I start messing with it, I gotta let her know and sorta get her on board... and she was like, see it starts like new
 
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