6th Gen - Is my timing out?
- Thread starter AndyB1976
- Start date
Yep, I would say its out by 1 or 2 tooth...
The safest way is to check the timing is in the timing belt drive pulley which is a bit hard to get to it. So if you reach that point, you are almost ready to correct the timing!
The safest way is to check the timing is in the timing belt drive pulley which is a bit hard to get to it. So if you reach that point, you are almost ready to correct the timing!
Looks like you are correct Pedro 
, Howto on Honda-Tech
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1908944.
Step 25
Make sure the camshaft pulley and crankshaft pulley is still at TDC.
- For the camshaft, refer to Step 12.
- On the crankshaft pulley you’ll see two sets of marks around the outside edge. 1 set has 3 marks (circled in yellow), the other is only 1 mark by itself. The mark by itself should line up with the pointer on the lower cover (shown by red arrows).
Copyright: Honda-Tech/Gary Fritz
Copyright: Honda-Tech/Gary Fritz
, Howto on Honda-Tech http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1908944.
Step 25
Make sure the camshaft pulley and crankshaft pulley is still at TDC.
- For the camshaft, refer to Step 12.
- On the crankshaft pulley you’ll see two sets of marks around the outside edge. 1 set has 3 marks (circled in yellow), the other is only 1 mark by itself. The mark by itself should line up with the pointer on the lower cover (shown by red arrows).
Copyright: Honda-Tech/Gary Fritz
Copyright: Honda-Tech/Gary Fritz
That's a great guide. I used it to do my timing belt!
About the timing light, it's only good for testing the ignition point, not the timing belt. But, if your timing belt is out, then the ignition will also be out...
About the timing light, it's only good for testing the ignition point, not the timing belt. But, if your timing belt is out, then the ignition will also be out...
It was done by Honda probably around late 2009.
I know the belt service life is 7yrs or 72k miles and I've done about 20k miles since it was done in those 4 years. Its only recently started hesitating and my spark plugs look a touch on the hot side and one (plug 4 ) is carbon fouled.
I know the belt service life is 7yrs or 72k miles and I've done about 20k miles since it was done in those 4 years. Its only recently started hesitating and my spark plugs look a touch on the hot side and one (plug 4 ) is carbon fouled.
Ok, I think I have already asked you this in other thread but don't remember the answer: have you checked the valve gaps?
Recently my brother bought a Lancer 1.3. It had a rough idle, and the one of the spark plugs was black. After some fiddling around, we found out it was the valves that needed to be adjusted. After adjusting them, the car seemed like a new one!
Edit: the belt could have jumped one tooth, some times it happens...
Recently my brother bought a Lancer 1.3. It had a rough idle, and the one of the spark plugs was black. After some fiddling around, we found out it was the valves that needed to be adjusted. After adjusting them, the car seemed like a new one!
Edit: the belt could have jumped one tooth, some times it happens...
TrueAndyB1976 said:Yeah I did do the clearances last year but I will recheck them as its no problem to do when you have done them a few times
Since I have my car running on LPG, I have to take extra care on them, so I do them almost with the eyes closed ;-)
I bought one of those micrometer style click adjusters which I never used last time as I needed a 10mm 1/2 socket to fit. Hopefully it will make it even quicker if it can fit in around the head.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EK7_tih9sUU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EK7_tih9sUU
What do you reckon it is? the timing?AndyB1976 said:Seems like I might be closing in on the cause of the hesitation and spark plug issues, thanks again
When I serviced my Dad's car one of his plugs had carbon fouling, but I think it's a different problem to yours, as he has idle issue where the revs drop right down.
I think I have a few issues.
Now the car is pretty much (12yrs) original expect for the usual service parts and brakes so there is a likelihood of wear and tear or material breakdown. The belt looks off for sure, and it was done at Honda so not too happy about that. I never 'race' the car in the respect that it rarely ever goes over 4kRPM so I doubt I could have jumped the tooth by my driving style.
I've just carried out a resistance check on the HT Leads, two look fine (3&4) and two (1&2) look way out of spec. I done a vid on the measurement so just checking the values are within the range of the scale and that I am interpreting the results accurately. For some reason Ohm scale has got me confused...again lol. The distributor cap contacts looks a tad worn (90k miles), they (OEM) are about £30 new, rotor about £15 so will likely replace them along with all the leads.
With all that done, it leaves the EGR ports to be cleaned. It might yet reveal a faulty injector on cylinder4. A friend of mine had a fluctuating RPM on his X reg Accord Auto and it turned out to be leaking injector so I might swap the injector positions and see how the spark plugs look after a week.
I ordered a can of BG44K PowerEnhancer so will run that through the system. This is my first ever fuel treatment on the car, I tend to see fuel treatments as snake oil so let me be proved wrong and hope it can maybe clean cylinder 4's piston or valves as I am expecting them to have a bit of carbon lying around.
Now the car is pretty much (12yrs) original expect for the usual service parts and brakes so there is a likelihood of wear and tear or material breakdown. The belt looks off for sure, and it was done at Honda so not too happy about that. I never 'race' the car in the respect that it rarely ever goes over 4kRPM so I doubt I could have jumped the tooth by my driving style.
I've just carried out a resistance check on the HT Leads, two look fine (3&4) and two (1&2) look way out of spec. I done a vid on the measurement so just checking the values are within the range of the scale and that I am interpreting the results accurately. For some reason Ohm scale has got me confused...again lol. The distributor cap contacts looks a tad worn (90k miles), they (OEM) are about £30 new, rotor about £15 so will likely replace them along with all the leads.
With all that done, it leaves the EGR ports to be cleaned. It might yet reveal a faulty injector on cylinder4. A friend of mine had a fluctuating RPM on his X reg Accord Auto and it turned out to be leaking injector so I might swap the injector positions and see how the spark plugs look after a week.
I ordered a can of BG44K PowerEnhancer so will run that through the system. This is my first ever fuel treatment on the car, I tend to see fuel treatments as snake oil so let me be proved wrong and hope it can maybe clean cylinder 4's piston or valves as I am expecting them to have a bit of carbon lying around.
Andy I think you need to start redlining this car a bit and stop being a granny :lol: they like being revved and VTECed ^_^
Your friends car problem sounds exactly like my dads car, the throttle body and iavc was cleaned and coolant drained and bled, those three seemed most likely the issue but the problem still persists, and with the spark plugs fouled, it probably is the injectors on his.
What petrol grade do you use? Have you tried running her on higher ron? They have more detergents that clean the engine and all probably better than bottled additives, and supposed to be better for older and higher mileaged cars. I use BP Ultimate and Sainsbury 97ron one, and my car seems to be more 'happy'.
Your friends car problem sounds exactly like my dads car, the throttle body and iavc was cleaned and coolant drained and bled, those three seemed most likely the issue but the problem still persists, and with the spark plugs fouled, it probably is the injectors on his.
What petrol grade do you use? Have you tried running her on higher ron? They have more detergents that clean the engine and all probably better than bottled additives, and supposed to be better for older and higher mileaged cars. I use BP Ultimate and Sainsbury 97ron one, and my car seems to be more 'happy'.
Lol...I think you are correct Mr Exec. Its not seen VTEC in such a long time it probably thinks its a VW so has started falling to bits ;-)
Aye, get the injector looked at. I suggested the IACV to their local mechanic but he said it was ok, eventually pinned it on an injector.
Always RON95, from anywhere in reality or in otherwords I buy from supermarkets and the oil barons too. Have promised to run it on VPower or Nitro or whatever its now called every other tank.
Aye, get the injector looked at. I suggested the IACV to their local mechanic but he said it was ok, eventually pinned it on an injector.
Always RON95, from anywhere in reality or in otherwords I buy from supermarkets and the oil barons too. Have promised to run it on VPower or Nitro or whatever its now called every other tank.
TonyK7ng87
Members
Running vpower nitro+ every other tank doesn't work mate.
I run my 2001 1.8 sport on vpower nitro+ only.
It goes to show as when I stripped the head down on my dc2 there was zero carbon build up on my valves ect, so I can honestly say it works.
I run my 2001 1.8 sport on vpower nitro+ only.
It goes to show as when I stripped the head down on my dc2 there was zero carbon build up on my valves ect, so I can honestly say it works.