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7th CTDI. Heater cold on drivers side

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xkc

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2005 i-cdti tourer
Hi,
have searched threads for a fix, did anyone actually solve this problem?.
Sat nav model exec, I have all motors working and all vents open close etc, all cables connected. Still can only get heat from passengers side.
I have tried the diagnostic for ac but it doesn't seem to work for me

Cheers, Sean.
 
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Removed drivers blend motor (which is moving both valve and hot/cold box ), as I thought perhaps the flap for closing hot to cold boxes inside heater was stuck, but alas no, all fine and can hear box and flap engaging when moving by hand.

Time I think to move on and just tell passengers it's only hot on your side for my benefit lol.
 
Interesting read thanks for that, it might just be that the part of the core that gets blocked is the drivers side, still odd though.

Anyone know which is in and which is out on the run?, a flush in reverse would perhaps be the best start.
 
Since there are only two pipes, removing just one will provide the answer.

The Accord is unfortunately plagued with iron piping and so whatever you do is going to require a lot of work in removing debris.

I had considered ultrasonic cleaning, and perhaps a magnet trap, but after four years of little heating I've got used to it.
 
My 2004 is the same, heats only passenger side, drivers side gets slightly warm but not as hot as passengers side. I've learnt to live with it and wear extra clothing in winter.
 
rob88 said:
My 2004 is the same, heats only passenger side, drivers side gets slightly warm but not as hot as passengers side. I've learnt to live with it and wear extra clothing in winter.
Click to expand...

So had I, but after the temperatures of last week I had enough.

It took about 15 minutes of flushing before the waste water ran clear, plenty of changing the settings inside appears to be key to getting as much silt out as possible.

Don't forget to bleed the entry pipe once done (top of engine)
 
Thanks for adding my thread Channel.

I'm in the process of doing it now, ( waiting on some antifreeze dohh ), not much in way of particles but some sludge.

I don't think operating the car controls will help at all as the matrix is just one chamber and the only valve is on the outside which you would remove anyway when flushing.
 
Ok, flushing the heater definitely helped with an increase of heat inside the car, but the drivers side is still not the same heat as passenger side ( if any heat ).

Now one thing I have noticed and this would be good if you guys could try too.

Set heat to Lo, fan on 5, centre console vents only, now place hand over drivers mid vent, now increase heat and I notice the strength of the air decreases as the temp rises, at HI there is little heat and little air whereas it's twin on the passenger side is moving heat and a lot of air.

This must be an internal flap of some sort that I ( we ) haven't checked/located yet.
 
xkc said:
Thanks for adding my thread Channel.

I'm in the process of doing it now, ( waiting on some antifreeze dohh ), not much in way of particles but some sludge.

I don't think operating the car controls will help at all as the matrix is just one chamber and the only valve is on the outside which you would remove anyway when flushing.
Click to expand...


I did not remove the valve, it is easier to take the pipe off from the end nearer the steering wheel.

Inside the matrix will be vanes and other such wizardry to ensure the two comparments can run heat above and below (plus demist) and independently in dual occupant mode.

I'm also inclined to believe changing the internal/external vent option on the central consol will affect the amount of sludge you can remove since there will be trickery blocking chambers for this purpose,

What I didn't do was try forward flow flushing using some degreasant and the reverse flush again (nor giving the matrix a good few thumps when the hose was on), I may have one more go in the New Year as I only put a litre of antifreeze in when refilling.
 
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xkc said:
Ok, flushing the heater definitely helped with an increase of heat inside the car, but the drivers side is still not the same heat as passenger side ( if any heat ).

Now one thing I have noticed and this would be good if you guys could try too.

Set heat to Lo, fan on 5, centre console vents only, now place hand over drivers mid vent, now increase heat and I notice the strength of the air decreases as the temp rises, at HI there is little heat and little air whereas it's twin on the passenger side is moving heat and a lot of air.

This must be an internal flap of some sort that I ( we ) haven't checked/located yet.
Click to expand...

You might still have air in parts of the matrix, bleed a number of times.
 
Channel Hopper said:
You might still have air in parts of the matrix, bleed a number of times.
Click to expand...

It would be interesting what you find with my settings, unless you're all fixed now and you get equal heat/airflow.

Yes I have bled a few times.
 
Since it is the highest part of the plumbing, bleeding is a long process.

I think someone on here mentioned opening up the radiator cap when hot would allow the sudden loss of pressure to evacuate air from the matrix, that was going to be my next task but difficult without a thermostat in place in the winter.
 
Channel Hopper said:
Inside the matrix will be vanes and other such wizardry to ensure the two comparments can run heat above and below (plus demist) and independently in dual occupant mode.

I'm also inclined to believe changing the internal/external vent option on the central consol will affect the amount of sludge you can remove since there will be trickery blocking chambers for this purpose,
Click to expand...
There's no trickery no wizardry, no compartments, no vanes and no blocking chambers it's a Core IN and OUT that's it.
All vanes and compartments '' Wizardry'' are external to the core, they direct AIR not Water where selected ( or not in our case ).
Honda or any other manufacturer would never make a heater core with moving parts in the core, that would be asking for trouble, especially as these would need operating from externally, meaning all sorts of seals which as we know, '' moving seals leak''.
 
I was thinking more solenoids to shut off and divert fluids to different places (possibly with aircon / ECU governing), but bow to your greater knowledge of the technology.
 
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Well, the pipes either side of the matrix are hot to the touch after the car has warmed up (bled the top pipe three times).
I've still got virtually no cabin heating so I'll have another go at flushing through later today.
 
Channel Hopper said:
So had I, but after the temperatures of last week I had enough.

It took about 15 minutes of flushing before the waste water ran clear, plenty of changing the settings inside appears to be key to getting as much silt out as possible.

Don't forget to bleed the entry pipe once done (top of engine)
Click to expand...

Thanks, good info, will give this a go when the weather warms up.
 
I had a bit of spare time today, drained the water/coolant out and flushed the matrix.

Still a large amount of silt in there, red oxide. This time I left the hose on for about 20 minutes giving the consol a nudge every now and then.

Will refill tomorrow and check.

Does anyone know just how large the radiator is inside the passenger compartment ?
 
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Due to the position of the heater core in the car it will fill with debris which will settle on the drivers side and from the diagram/core design it looks like it will just stay there, the only way really is flushing in reverse then flushing forwards many times, also tapping the unit at the base ( console foot side covers removed ).

My heater is now running almost full temp on the passenger side and the drivers side is not great but adequate.

Diagram here,

HEATER UNIT (RH) for Honda ACCORD TOURER 2.2 EXECUTIVE 5 Doors 5 speed manual 2005 # HONDA CARS - Genuine Spare Parts Catalogue

www.parts-honda.uk www.parts-honda.uk
 
I had linked to the wrong model

www.ebay.co.uk

Heater radiator (heater matrix) for Honda Accord UK1332542-64 | eBay

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though from your diagram it looks like there is a plug at the base of the radiator (on the drivers side). Either for drainage, or a thermostat on another variant.
 
I don't see a drain plug, there's one in the engine rad underneath, but the heater core I don't see it, if there was one it would need a strip down to get to it which means you would already have the core out and the debris problem would be easy to sort anyway.
 
OK, having enlarged the diagram it seems to be the inlet point (which raises another question *).
Odd that in the breakers yard image of the i-ctdi the two pipes run to the top , presumably to reduce the chance of an airlock in a core with no vent.

* Since the inlet is at the base, perhaps flushing forwards with a foaming detergent mixture is the way to go, carrying the debris out through the upper pipe, though this would have been the natural exit for silt during day to day use. capture_002_31122022_205105.jpg
 
It's definitely a debris trap, the drivers side being the first point of buildup, no heat on passenger side would indicate it's near full ( as was mine, now pass is max heat after many flushes ).

I think the best is alternate flushing to dislodge a little at a time, it gets tedious though. Best would be an aggravator of somekind hitting the heater box as close to core as possible while flushing, I'm not thinking air chisel but along those lines, repeat gentle thud.
 
Draining /introducing some cleaner sometime before, then a jetwash nozzle aimed at the inlet (not too close ) could shift some more debris through.

I should have time later this week to try a few options.
 
I tried a forward flush earlier today, more of the brown stuff came out.

I've added some detergent to the water and will potter about tomorrow before draining and flushing again, see how much more is dislodged though I think keeping the stuff in there and driving quite a few miles might be better.
 
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