apintofmild
Members
There are a couple of other threads on this, so feel free to read them all and devise your own plan of attack. This guide is for a manual facelift tourer, but I imagine the pre-facelift and saloon diesels are pretty similar. Fuel filter replacement on an automatic is different (it's located somewhere near the fuel tank.)
Most advice suggests removal of the cross brace. It's only six nuts (tighten to 22Nm upon reassembly), but I figured (correctly) the job was possible leaving it in place. With it removed you'll be able to lift the fuel filter housing top and pleated filter element out together. If the brace is in place you'll have to separate the filter from the lid and lift them out one part at a time.
Make some access space around the fuel filter by moving the fuse box to one side. Remove the nut at the rear (10mm deep socket) and release the clip at the front.
Lift the fuse box up and over the stud, twisting it anticlockwise slightly and pushing it down by the side of the stud.
I scribed a mark on the alloy body adjacent to the pointer mark on the filter cap to give me an idea of the correct position for re-***embly.
The next few steps will result in a small amount of fuel spillage. If you're careful no more than an eggcup full, but still enough to leave a stain on your drive. Put a large flattened cardboard box under the car to catch any drops and surrounded the filter housing in workshop roll.
Remove the securing bolt from the fuel pipe union (10mm ring spanner) and withdraw the pipe from the filter housing lid.
Using a removal tool of your choice, either the correct Honda part (070AA-RL00300 / 070AA-RL00200), a suitable filter socket, chain wrench, multi leg spanner or something of your own design (see here for more info http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/20181-i-dtec-fuel-filter-tool/) unscrew the filter housing top.
Have a old newspaper handy as the filter will likely still contain fuel. Remove the o-ring from the filter housing lid, lubricate the new o-ring with fuel and fit in place. The new filter comes with o-rings for the filter top and one for the drain plug. As far as I could tell to access the drain plug you either need to remove the gearbox, or have Inspector Gadget arms. To that end, I let sleeping dogs lie and didn't fit the replacement. I've stored it away in case I have need of it in the future.
Weirdly you don't get the o-ring for the fuel pipe which I'd have thought was just as important. Next time I may add an 9.8X2.4 o-ring (P/No 91393-TL0-G01) to the order.
The old filter element just pulls out of the lid.
Using a suction tool (home made: small eBay vacuum pump and a spaghetti storage jar) remove the half pint or so of fuel from the filter bowl -or figure out how the drain plug works ;-)
There was no water or dirt evident, but I wanted to be sure. Wipe out with a lint free cloth.
Drop the new filter into the bowl, open end up, protective cap removed. Locate the top of the filter element into the lid, and screw the cap back on and tighten to 35Nm, or up to the scribed mark. Re-fit the fuel pipe and tighten the retaining screw to 12Nm.
The fuel system is self priming (no rubber bulb like a 7th Gen). Turn the ignition on and wait 40 seconds. You'll hear the system prime along with various gurgling noises as the air is expelled. When it falls silent, switch off the ignition and check the filter housing and pipes for any leaks. If all is well, turn on the ignition again and allow to prime once more. The second time may not necessary, but having read what can happen if you air lock the injectors (usually by running out of fuel) I think it's worth another 40 seconds just to be sure. Start the engine, and you're done.
Most advice suggests removal of the cross brace. It's only six nuts (tighten to 22Nm upon reassembly), but I figured (correctly) the job was possible leaving it in place. With it removed you'll be able to lift the fuel filter housing top and pleated filter element out together. If the brace is in place you'll have to separate the filter from the lid and lift them out one part at a time.
Make some access space around the fuel filter by moving the fuse box to one side. Remove the nut at the rear (10mm deep socket) and release the clip at the front.
Lift the fuse box up and over the stud, twisting it anticlockwise slightly and pushing it down by the side of the stud.
I scribed a mark on the alloy body adjacent to the pointer mark on the filter cap to give me an idea of the correct position for re-***embly.
The next few steps will result in a small amount of fuel spillage. If you're careful no more than an eggcup full, but still enough to leave a stain on your drive. Put a large flattened cardboard box under the car to catch any drops and surrounded the filter housing in workshop roll.
Remove the securing bolt from the fuel pipe union (10mm ring spanner) and withdraw the pipe from the filter housing lid.
Using a removal tool of your choice, either the correct Honda part (070AA-RL00300 / 070AA-RL00200), a suitable filter socket, chain wrench, multi leg spanner or something of your own design (see here for more info http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/20181-i-dtec-fuel-filter-tool/) unscrew the filter housing top.
Have a old newspaper handy as the filter will likely still contain fuel. Remove the o-ring from the filter housing lid, lubricate the new o-ring with fuel and fit in place. The new filter comes with o-rings for the filter top and one for the drain plug. As far as I could tell to access the drain plug you either need to remove the gearbox, or have Inspector Gadget arms. To that end, I let sleeping dogs lie and didn't fit the replacement. I've stored it away in case I have need of it in the future.
Weirdly you don't get the o-ring for the fuel pipe which I'd have thought was just as important. Next time I may add an 9.8X2.4 o-ring (P/No 91393-TL0-G01) to the order.
The old filter element just pulls out of the lid.
Using a suction tool (home made: small eBay vacuum pump and a spaghetti storage jar) remove the half pint or so of fuel from the filter bowl -or figure out how the drain plug works ;-)
There was no water or dirt evident, but I wanted to be sure. Wipe out with a lint free cloth.
Drop the new filter into the bowl, open end up, protective cap removed. Locate the top of the filter element into the lid, and screw the cap back on and tighten to 35Nm, or up to the scribed mark. Re-fit the fuel pipe and tighten the retaining screw to 12Nm.
The fuel system is self priming (no rubber bulb like a 7th Gen). Turn the ignition on and wait 40 seconds. You'll hear the system prime along with various gurgling noises as the air is expelled. When it falls silent, switch off the ignition and check the filter housing and pipes for any leaks. If all is well, turn on the ignition again and allow to prime once more. The second time may not necessary, but having read what can happen if you air lock the injectors (usually by running out of fuel) I think it's worth another 40 seconds just to be sure. Start the engine, and you're done.
