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Anyone tried replacing Egr pipe on DTec 2.2?

Psabin8951

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Has anyone got a guide on how to replace a cracked egr pipe?
Yes I know I could get it blanked/mapped out etc but need to see if replacing is diy able
 

csak1981

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It's definitely doable diy, however coolant draining is required as some of the small coolant pipes and coolant channels on side of engine block need removed.
I can post up some screenshots of the procedure with diagrams and torque values from the service manual if you want to see what's involved and have a go
 

Psabin8951

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If you could post the screenshot that would be appreciated thanks
 

csak1981

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Sorry been away camping with crappy signal, I'll try and get one up for you as soon as i can
 

csak1981

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I've had a look at the procedure and it's a bit of a task for me to screenshot it all. There is a few diagrams for each stage so that you can see the torque values for each bolt and I'd then have to mess about with each image on a photo editor to get the file size below the 100kb? Max limit for it to post up.
If you are really into doing any repairs like me then you would be better getting the workshop manual on cd rom for pc like I did from Winchester trading website. I've used it many a time and it's saved me a fortune taking the car to the dealers.

Once you've received the disc let me know and I'll talk you through navigating through it, it's a bit tricky at first.

It cost me £20 but it's now only £10, it's well worth the money.

Link to disc; https://www.winchestertrading.co.uk/product-page/honda-accord-2009-2010-workshop-manual
 

F6HAD

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Ordered one for myself, can’t go wrong at that price.
 

csak1981

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I agree. It will only run in internet explorer browser, also after you've selected model variant in the small drop down box at the top left and then when you select a category underneath on the left window nothing will come up in the right window unless you click the magnifying glass next to the search box.
 

Troy McClure

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Sorry to hijack old thread - if blanking off EGR (had remap done already), would you recommend two blanking plates, one at each end? Pipe is not split but that doesn't mean it won't in future and presumably would create an intake leak if I've only blocked exhaust manifold end.

And how do you get to the 'other' end of the pipe? The exhaust manifold end is easy once the heat shield is removed, but the other end? Is removing the air box enough to get to it? 58 plate 2.2 i-dtec.
 

F6HAD

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We only blank at the front against the exhaust manifold
 

csak1981

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There shouldn't be any pressure in the pipe for it to split once it's blocked at the manifold end. Fahad knows these diesels well.
If it was blocked at the other end which is hard to get to anyway as it's at the back of the engine at intake manifold, it curves around from front to right side of engine between airbox and engine block and then around to the back left below brake fluid reservoir into intake manifold I'm sure then exhaust gases could back up and split the pipe I suppose yes
 
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