What's new

Battery - Negative Earth Connections

Channel Hopper

Members
Messages
1,673
Reaction score
260
Location
KT8 Postcode
Car
Accord 7 Estate 2005
Some of you may have read my previous thread on the copper conducting lead and its connection to the front bodywork just above the n/s headlight, and the corrosion of the bolt, plus the paint that seems to be in between the two metal surfaces.

Since I've alredy cleaned this up but seem to be experiencing further issues with starting the car when warm (that is most likely down to the age of the replacement batttery) , in the spare hour I had yesterday waiting for the engine to cool down I thought I would have a look to see where the other end of the connecting lead goes to, so took out the battery and removed the tray.

The lead is overly long - not so much of an issue though it could be under half the length, - and bolts to an steel plate, before connecting to the alloy gearbox mounting point, with just two 6mm threaded bolts securing everything together. Both of these are open to the elements and as such water funnels in under the spoiler, and so the bolt holes and surfaces were both filthy and with oxides of all metals.

Unless there is a severe electrolysis effect between copper and alloy (which I doubt, but will check), there seems no real need for this steel part, which is only 4cms long and does not impact on the routing of the connector. So I removed it and cleaned up all mating surfaces before putting things back together. The resistance between negative battery terminal and ground does not appear to have changed (shorting the meter leads directly shows 0.4 Ohms , with the connector adding 0.1 Ohms more) however the earlier corrosion might have an impact on delivery of maximum cranking current to the starter solenoid. I did not have the desire to start checking the positive side of the wiring loom yesterday but might have a closer look another time.

Some pictures of what is under the battery platform, and before/after removing of the waste metal.
 

Attachments

  • 20210520_150846.jpg
    20210520_150846.jpg
    180.4 KB · Views: 14
  • 20210520_150916.jpg
    20210520_150916.jpg
    159.1 KB · Views: 14
  • 20210520_151227.jpg
    20210520_151227.jpg
    153.4 KB · Views: 14
  • 20210520_151450.jpg
    20210520_151450.jpg
    144.1 KB · Views: 14
Be aware that the electrons travel on the outside of the wire and that a corroded and dirty wire will effectively reduce current carried on a wire.
I would make a new one from welding cable and get it crimped or solder it with some flux, this might make a more significant difference.
 
Be aware that the electrons travel on the outside of the wire and that a corroded and dirty wire will effectively reduce current carried on a wire.
I would make a new one from welding cable and get it crimped or solder it with some flux, this might make a more significant difference.


The copper in the connector cable itself isn't in bad condition (the picture enhances the dirt ;) ).
There are no broken strands visible and so if I wanted to go whole hog I would probably redesign the route to dramatically shorten the cable, which I think could be under 30cms as opposed to the 70cms it is currently. Then one other connector running from the block to a main steel structure behind the engine so it stays dry.
 
As I was feeling generous last week I thought I would treat her to a new battery.

A quick shout out to parts2clear for selling a genuine Yaesu battery for under £80 delivered. Four year guarantee as well.


Yes it's not a part recommended for the Tourer (I think the original is a 76 / 680, this is 80 / 720 ), but since the old one could be shoehorned into the plastic housing I thought why not.

Starting is now on the button, engine both cold and now hot, which has been a bit of a gamble for the past couple of years.
 

Attachments

  • New Battery.jpg
    New Battery.jpg
    196.5 KB · Views: 6
Top