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Cleaning EGR Valve

CJM

Dr. Diesel
Messages
3,229
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Location
Greater Manchester
Car
56 Accord Ex i-CTDI
I decided to clean the EGR Valve today, we already have some great DIY's on cleaning the EGR, but they are for the pre - facelift, there is not much difference but some of the pictures might be of use to those with the facelift model.

As there are already some DIY's on here I started the job not intending to do a DIY, therefore most pictures are after parts are removed, I re-used some from the DIY on MAF and MAP cleaning

I actually removed the EGR, the IMRC Valve and the EGR pipe, however you do not really need to remove the EGR pipe and it is a pain to remove!

I would however recommend removing the IMRC valve as it aids in cleaning the port on the inlet manifold.

The IMRC valve is relatively straight forward to remove apart from the top 12mm nut, which you need an open ended or ratchet spanner for,rather than a socket and the bolt that holds it onto the stabiliser bracket, which I used two extension bars and gained access via the opening underneath the car.

this is what the IMRC valve looks like this,

DSCF1754.jpg


Whilst the IMRC valve is off you may as well give the port a good clean.

EGR Valve

The EGR valve looks like this,

DSCF1762.jpg


To remove the EGR firstly you may find it easier to undo the bolt that holds the dipstick to the block and also the two 10mm bolts that secure the the radiator expansion tank, this will enable you to move them slightly to gain better access.

Next bolts to do are the two 12mm bolts that secure the EGR valve to the EGR pipe ,you can see one in the picture above with the yellow blob of paint to the left of it, now there are various words that could describe these, but basically they are "show stoppers", if you cannot get them undone then the job cannot be done.

Spray some penetrating oil on each bolt from the top, now the access to these isn't great, ideally if you cannot get a socket wrench in, use a breaker bar, you may actually need to tighten the bolt slightly first, to help break the hold so to speak, then try again to loosen, just be careful as they will bite you otherwise!

***uming you have success on the two "show stoppers", the EGR is now only held on with two 12mm bolts and two 12mm nuts all accessible and that's it EGR Valve will come off , oops no, sorry it won't, you need to take the Vac pipe off the top as well!

***uming you have taken the IMRC Valve and the EGR valve off you should see something like this, pretty gunked up

2011-03-12121201.jpg


Here's a couple of the EGR valve itself

2011-03-12121305.jpg


2011-03-12121333.jpg


First off I found it best to clean the EGR Valve starting at the port to the inlet manifold, get as much of the gunk out as possible with either a screw driver or an old bicycle spoke

I then used an old rag, with brake cleaner sprayed on it to clean out the surface, I stuffed the rag in with the screwdriver, you want as much of the carbon out as possible.

Next step is to clean the underside i.e the valve port, my valve was completely closed, again clean as much of the carbon off then once that is clean you need to ensure that that the valve seat is clean, the way I did this was as follows, I used an extension bar to depress the valve open as the valve opens the gap at the diaphragm dish gets larger, I then used the handle of my 1/2" socket wrench to hold the valve open, keeping it as central as possible. With the valve open I was then able to clean the seat with a rag sprayed with brake cleaner wrapped around a thin screwdriver.

2011-03-12122656.jpg


Next step is to get all the gunk out of the ports on the inlet manifold, personally I used an old bicycle spoke which seemed to be well suited to the job, to the left of the opening is a channel that also needs de-sludging. You can use the screwdriver to push the rag through the port from the IMRC Valve through to the port of the EGR as in this picture.

2011-03-12124956.jpg


Don't forget to clean the sludge from the top of the port, I then went around the port with the rag again sprayed with brake cleaner, once your happy it is pretty much putting it all back together, making sure all electrics are connected and all vac pipes are connected to the EGR and the IMRC Valve.

Here is a picture of the EGR pipe condition, just a basic soot deposit, so if it looks like this it really isn't worth the graft of taking it off as the other side will be the same.

Here are the links to the other EGR related DIY's should you require info for the pre-facelift.

By Gator (Dan)
By Danger Mouse (Ian)

In respect of how the car feels, seems quieter and more responsive, but early days.
 
Thought that first sensor you arrowed was the map sensor? Should give you a few more mpg after cleaning out all that.
 
Thought that first sensor you arrowed was the map sensor? Should give you a few more mpg after cleaning out all that.


Yes you are correct Tony, the arrow is pointing to the MAP sensor, that's the picture I used for the cleaning MAF, MAP and IMRC DIY, it's just that I had stripped it all out before deciding on doing the DIY and therefore there was no picture to show the location of the IMRC Valve.

For clarity the IMRC valve is connected to the inlet manifold and is to the right of the EGR valve and has a smaller vac diaphragm attached to it , the MAP sensor is the black sensor bolted onto the top of the IMRC Valve.
 
Top work Carl, another great write up!
 
In fact I'm changing your ***le name ;) Give me two ticks
 
Now give that kid his bike spoke back you bully :lol:
 
When I cleaned my EGR I found it best to simply fill it up with brake cleaner and leave it for an hour. When I tips the remains out it was clean as a whistle but then again it wasnt that dirty to start with.

Nice guide Dr D
 
Great write up mr D
 
When I cleaned my EGR I found it best to simply fill it up with brake cleaner and leave it for an hour. When I tips the remains out it was clean as a whistle but then again it wasnt that dirty to start with.

Nice guide Dr D

Sounds a good idea Andy.

It surprised me a bit on how filthy it was considering it is just around 48k. Always use Shell and VPD when I can get it. I suspect some of the it maybe down to when the IMRC solenoid issue in the recent past.
 
Sounds a good idea Andy.

It surprised me a bit on how filthy it was considering it is just around 48k. Always use Shell and VPD when I can get it. I suspect some of the it maybe down to when the IMRC solenoid issue in the recent past.

I think your right mate, I cleaned my IMRC from your excellent guide and it was no where near as dirty as yours. I think the solenoid issue must have played a big part in the dirt factor.
 
Top work CJ - I was just looking for an EGR DIY yesterday and wondered what the facelift differences may be and then today as if by magic...

That's now give me a full list of CDTi sensors and valves to clean this week, and I plan to do it after every service too. Can't hurt - especially seeing the crud that was in there. :)
 
Dude if you worked on it, I think we can all ***ume it probably wouldn't start EVER again :lol:
 
lol, sorry guys how difficulit is it to do this guys...im sure i could do with cleaning mine but dont want to attempt something just incase i mess it upnice write up by the way..
 
:lol: :lol:

Can you imagine the scene CJ under the bonnet of a diesel, it would be a whole new definition of Hammer Horror, well at least for the owner !!
 
lol, sorry guys how difficulit is it to do this guys...im sure i could do with cleaning mine but dont want to attempt something just incase i mess it upnice write up by the way..

sufian,

It's pretty easy,

You could do just the EGR, the main thing is to do the two bolts at the bottom attaching it to the pipe, once they are out, it is pretty much plain sailing.
Just make sure you put some penetrating oil on them.
The IMRC Valve isn't too bad to remove and mainly it helps in getting all the gunk out, but you don't have to take it off if your not too sure, you should still be able to get most of the muck out.

One main thing is to ensure that there is no carbon build up on the valve seat, preventing it from closing properly.
 
Thanks bud,it sounds simple enough and im always willing to attempt things, I will post some pics when I attempt this....cj under the bonnet of a diesel is like a hornet in a bee hive,LOL
 
Hah, I've just spotted this thread after adding to the end of Gathor's. I did my EGR this weekend too and noticed that there wasn't a guide for thefacelift model...and now there is!

My car has done 100k and the EGR is not as bad as yours. Not sure why. I don't use any VPD or fancy fuel additives at all. One thing I did notice though was I am sure they have re-arranged the IMRC valve and EGR so that the EGR feeds in after the IMRC. If I recall correctly it doesn't do this on the pre-facelift.

Here's my EGR and intake manifold port...

IMAG0040.jpg


IMAG0036.jpg
 
Thank you for the guide mate, I started doing the job last week and got half way through will complete the job this weekend hopefully! Can feel the difference already even with just a cloth and getting to what my hand could reach!!
 
Evening All,

I just been out trying to get the Inlet Manifold off but have come to a bit of a roadblock! I managed to get the EGR off, I have got all the bolts off that I can see but there are 2 that I just can't get too! Any advice how to get to them?! I have attached some pics of progress! The arrows show the ones I can't get to, do I have to take them off?


20151128_152913.jpg





Manifold.jpg


Thanks
 
You need to remove the fuel rail.
Undo the diesel lines at both ends, including the feed to the rail. Then remove the rail.

You wouldn't have been able to leave the rail hanging there without damaging a line anyway.
 
The fuel rail's the big metal jobbie with the metal fuel line coming in from the pump, and the 4 going out to the injectors.
 
Thanks Matt, it's not hanging its still bolted on, I've just uncliped the plastic thing that sat on top which is hanging about. Do the fuel lines come off quite easily?
 
Yeah, 14mm spanner. Makes sure you get them seated properly and done up tight when you refit.
Check for leaks before the engine cover goes back on.

I meant if you managed to remove everything else, and the rail was left hanging in the fresh air, it'd damage the lines.
 
Thanks Matt, another newbie question, what should I do with the pipes one I remove them? I was thinking to quickly undo the bolt that I needed and reattach the fuel rail?
 
Make sure you keep the injector pipes in the right order as they're all appropriately shaped.

When it all goes back together, you'll have to crank the car a bit till if fills the rail and bleeds itself.
 
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