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Cleaning your turbo without removing it?

ship69

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Hello

Have any of you tried to clean your turbo just using chemicals/additives/sprays?

e.g. Product: "Wynns Turbo Cleaner"

"How to clean TURBO without removing"
https://www.youtube....h?v=_09bUZMgTh4

"How To Clean A Turbo On A Diesel Without Removing Using Wynn's Turbo Cleaner Spray"
https://youtu.be/zacCSz4c8G8


e.g. Product: "CRC GDI IVD Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner"

"How To Use CRC Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner || Does it work? Testing It On A Turbo"

https://www.youtube....h?v=204zFZGVnrI


e.g. "TerraClean" ??
http://terraclean.co.uk


e.g. "Revive Turbo Cleaner"
https://reviveturbocleaner.com/


What have you tried? Did anything work?

Many thanks

J
 

F6HAD

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Cliffordski said:
Italian tuneup.
Normally I would agree with you cliff but on these idtecs once the vanes are clogged it really needs a strip down and clean. I have advised the OP already but he seems intent on finding another cure.

I’ll leave the thread open for others to share their experience in relation to the specific products he wants to know about.
 

stellamon

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F6HAD said:
Normally I would agree with you cliff but on these idtecs once the vanes are clogged it really needs a strip down and clean.
Hello Fahad,

Many thanks for the work you did on my car a few weeks ago, it goes really well.
You did mention maybe I should be giving my turbo a strip and clean, could you explain whats involved please.
I had a look today and not sure if I'd need to order some new gaskets before taking it off.
Would I need to drain the coolant at all?

I had a look at the photos on your facebbok page but still unclear what needs to be undone to remove the turbo.
 

F6HAD

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Hi mate, I don’t have a step by step I’m afraid and it’s my mechanic that does the work so I don’t really get involved.

Fundamentally though you need to get the turbo off the car which involves removing the dpf to access the turbo. You’ll need to clamp the oil and water feed pipes or find a way to prevent loss of fluids while the pipes are off.

Consider replacing the metal gasket for the oil feed pipe and also paper gasket for the coolant pipe.

Once the turbo is on your bench, then really it’s a case of disassembly, thorough cleaning and careful reassembly. It’s basically the vanes you need to get to which you can see in the Facebook pictures.

Also check the shaft for lateral movement, some very slight play is normally acceptable on a used car but if you can see scoring against the walls or can feel it’s close enough to catch them then the bearings are likely shot and it’s worth considering replacing the whole cartridge.

I’ve probably missed some critical info in there so if anyone wants to add, feel free.
 

Channel Hopper

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F6HAD said:
I’ve probably missed some critical info in there so if anyone wants to add, feel free.
I only have experience of Citroen BXs and a Saab 99T from years ago. Plus a Kawasaki 750T

If you can clean off as much road dirt with a jet wash in the right areas the day before (make sure the engine is not hot when you do this).
Spray any bolts you have to undo with a decent penetrating fluid when the engine is slightly warm and leave for at least half a day before undertaking the work.

Undoing bolts (especially blind hole ones), make sure you have the right tool for the job, one that allows you to 'feel' for any seizure of the thread.

Clean all threads before reassembly - cotton wool buds are excellent. lightly oil the end of each bolt and use loctite where the turbo manufacturer or Honda recommend.

Don't start work on, or under a hot engine.
 
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