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Clutch Bite Point and Wastegate Stick

dmaguire

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09 Accord 2.2 I-DTEC
Hi all,

I've recently bought a 2009 Honda Accord with 186k miles on it, a bit aged I know and likely to have some issues, I'm ok with that, just trying to figure what exactly could be wrong and what the best way of going about fixing them is.

First Issue:
The clutch bite point seems to change, I noticed it first a few weeks after buying and went on my first longish journey maybe 200-250km the clutch started to slip (revs shooting up and no change in speed or wheel spin) this was on long straight roads where I just decided to give it welly happening at around 3k revs or so. Figured maybe it was an issue that only occurred when the car got good and hot on long journeys. after that I started to notice that the bite point seemed to change, if the clutch was held in for a while at traffic lights say the bite point might change from its usual 50% out to 20% out and I essentially dump the clutch letting it out expecting bite at 50%, there does seem to be some random variance where normal driving and no real pattern to it, any suggestions as to cause or solutions all welcome.

Local mechanic did say that the cllutch didnt seem to be great in it but could be left for a while but is causing me more issues than I'd like and am aware it may give up if the repeated dumping of it continues.

Second Issue: P00AF

Car is throwing check engine light up with error code P00AF after diagnostic from the local mechanics they've said that the waste gate is sticking when coming out at about 70% and holding for a second before clicking out, not so much of an issue to me as the car is driving grand, boost doesn't seem to be an issue and only ever went into limp mode a handful of times since buying but would like to have it fixed, I can get the turbo refurbished for 400 euros or get a secondhand from a breakers for 150 euros, would like to have any idea as to whether this is a problem that is going to continue to get worse with soot continue=ing to build if its blocked vanes or if this is something that even worth touching at all since its not currently causing any issues.

Any suggestions and help is appreciated, I have fallen in love with the car and would really like to keep it regardless of its age but need t weight up if its financially reasonable to keep.
 
You could try to bleed the clutch system in the first instance - a cheap fix potentially - I've been messing around with my slave cylinder recently and initially had some weird pedal engagement as i'd not bled it properly. If the clutch is original at 186k its definitely led a good life so it could just need changing though.

The wastegate issue, diesels aren't my strong area, but it could just be a case of cleaning it all out in the first instance. I imagine the gaskets etc would all need to be refreshed etc at the same time.

I found a thread here with a similar issue https://typeaccord.co.uk/board/threads/turbo-boost-p00af.19351/ - looks to just need a thorough disassembly and clean
 
Thanks Taylor,

On another note if anyone has any idea how difficult the turbo is to change out I'd happily do that myself, I know with some newer engine the turbos need some fine tuning with readout from the ECU which I wouldn't be comfortable doing but if its a simple case of take it off and stick the new one on I could do that, anyone have an idea of how much work is involved in actually fitting a turbo for an Accord correctly?
 
RE clutch.
I bought my '13 2.2 iDTEC with 190k KM on the clock.
For the 1st 2 months I had it, occasionally the clutch pedal would not return fully after lifting foot of the pedal.
I brought the car to the dealer and asked them to replace gearbox oil and brake fluid.
The issue occurred less and less frequently after those fluids were replaced and now it never happens.

Maybe changing those fluids solved the problem, maybe not. It could have been that the car sat idle for months before I bought it and something had partially seized.

Next time your clutch appears to slip, place your toes under the clutch pedal and pull it up. If its already up then the cause of your problem is not a stuck clutch pedal.
 
Yes, gearbox oil change is worth doing too as it's quite easy and cheap but something that is often overlooked. Just make sure you can remove the filling plug before you drain it out!

Turbo removal and replacement - have a look at the attached printout from the service manual - you can access that here https://typeaccord.co.uk/board/thre...p-manual-esm-on-windows-11.26630/#post-269101

I would say it's doable for a DIY mechanic but you do have to remove quite a lot of stuff (at least, if you are following the Honda instructions). I know from reading on here the bolts for the EGR pipe are difficult to access.

It doesn't say to do any kind of recalibration of the turbo vanes or anything like that, just to do the following:
Do the DPF regeneration.
Do the DPF differential pressure sensor initialization.

I believe you can trigger these through a good quality diagnoistic tool, or you can get a knock-off Honda HDS cable and software from Aliexpress et. You'd probably get away with not doing that anyway,
 

Attachments

  • Turbocharger and Exhaust Manifold Removal and Installation (Diesel).pdf
    105.3 KB · Views: 4
Hi Taylor,

Yea could definitely be something worth doing, didn't get any service history past 2012 on the car so have very limited information about whats been done on it, yea that does look doable, I'm confident to be able to strip a turbo off the car, my main concern was just if it needed any tuning once fitted but no indication there that anythings needed so I suppose I'll give it a crack.
 
update for anyone else experiencing a similar issue to the clutch issue, on recommendation of Taylor I bled the clutch and the brake fluid was as dirty as bog water, honestly could have been factory fluid, seems to have solved the issue of the bite point changing possibly to water absorbed boiling or air pockets,
 
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