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Clutch gone down again

honda_saj

honda_saj

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Location
london
Car
honda accord
Yesterday after leaving the petrol station I couldn't select any gear prior to that the gears were stiff but selectable the night before I had some juddering while driving.
Checked fluid and was really low topped up and no joy the clutch pedal is not springing back up ?
About four months I replaced the clutch master cylinder along with clutch pedal and fresh fluid didn't have tools to strip so will look at tomorrow what are you suggestions I will obviously re bleed to see if that works also there is a lever by clutch slave cylinder anyone know what that is for ?

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The clunch on my wife's civic did this before as the the hydraulic piston wouldn't extend far enough to release the pressure plate from the clutch.

I made a longer clutch pish rod to use up the remainder of the clutch plate as the car's an '01 so it wasn't worth firing the money catapult at it

That was about 4 years ago. It just keeps going through MOT's so we still haven't scrapped it and the clutch still works quite happily.
 
I would guess you have a leak somewhere if the fluids low. Have you checked the slave by pulling back the boot and checking for fluid?

System must have air init that's why the pedal not returning.

You said in another thread you use a vacuum bleeder, if that doesn't work try the two man method, and manually pulling the pedal up each time.
 
Yes I'm gonna strip tomorrow and see hoping it's that I left bleed valve loose or a cracked pedal again I will I use vacuum pump its excellent tool

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If not looking at cmc csc or line

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Here is guide sorry no pics job was done on roadside.<br /><u><b>Clutch Master / Slave Replacement, including Vacuum bleed<br /></b></u><br /><br /> * Using syringe or you vacuum bleed kit empty clutch master cylinder reservoir, release using screwdriver and disconnect hose by squeezing clip<br /> * To remove clutch pedal you will need to remove heating mixer this is done by three brass screws and one connector this will allow you enough space to remove pedal nuts.<br /> * Remove 1 or 2 sensors by disconnecting and unscrewing thread, then remove 1 bolt above clutch pedal and 2 nuts holding clutch master cylinder and pedal together<br /> * Remove clutch master cylinder remove hose by squeezing clip and to disconnect you will need to remove U shaped snap ring <br /><br /> * If you want to remove slave cylinder then remove battery and tray to get to two bolts that hold slave cylinder in place using a pinch punch tool remove 2 pins and remove from vehicle<br /> * refit is reverse of above, the only points to note are when refitting clutch slave cylinder ensure piston is in correct place before bolting down, when fitting clutch master cylinder fit top bolt to hold pedal in place then fit top nut first and then bottom nut after which you replace pedal switch(s) and heating mixer ensure the black rail is in top mount and bottom mount has white rail before screwing down or driver side heating will not work. <br /><br /><br /> 1. Bleeding after replacement of master or slave cylinder; I remove the battery and tray, then i undo 2 bolts on slave cylinder and lift up i connect vacuum pump after loosening bleed valve, fill master reservoir keep rubber and plastic clip out and ensure you keep topped up during bleed once air has reduced then push in slave piston to bleed all air from slave cylinder as you have just bled master cylinder then close valve, refit slave cylinder and top up or remove if excessive you should be under max with rubber and plastic clip fitted.<br />

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Replaced clutch master cylinder and vehicle back on the road however I am getting crunch in 3rd gear [emoji22] [emoji22] [emoji22] [emoji22]

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Yes mine is 2.4, I was thinking the same thing to use an ep3 gearbox and swap the internals do you know which year ep3 will fit ?

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When was the last time it had fresh gearbox oil?

3rd in my accord was crunchy when I got it, but an oil change cleared it up and it's been great for the last 20-odd thousand miles.
 
Goodluckmonkey said:
When was the last time it had fresh gearbox oil?

3rd in my accord was crunchy when I got it, but an oil change cleared it up and it's been great for the last 20-odd thousand miles.
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Probably never but problem appeared after clutch master cylinder failed will flush and see what happens no harm in trying fresh fluid

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ukcl9 said:
All years.use the 4.76 final drive to
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What that's I'm new to gearbox mods so you will have to explain ?

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The final drive is the cog that determineds your top speed.so the cl9 has a long 4.4fd so this will give you a high top speed,great for cruising.at 70mph you are probably at only 2500rpm.but is bad for acceleration.just by changing the final drive to 4.76 will bring your top speed down about 20mph,this will have a knock on effect to all gear.so each gear will achieve a lower speed to the limiter.but that equals better acceleration.as all the gears become shorter.but cruising at 70 will now be 3000rpm.

Next add ep3 gears 1-5 and 4.76 fd.the gears will be even shorter,car will accelerate very will and keep cl9 6th for cruising.a great mod.

I have got a 5.33 final drive and torque feel has increased by nearly 20% but 70mph is now 3800rpm.but the car accelerates like crazy.
 
Ok kind of understand the ratios is there formula to work out ratios ? Also how is your mpg on motorways ?

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Sounds like a really good mod. Honda boxes are easy to work on aswell. Though I expect will make it very revvy so no good if you like cruising.
 
You can use an online gear calculator

I did a 600 mile round trip and got stuck in a 20mile traffic jam of stop start stop start.otherwise doing 70ish and got 36.4mpg.i couldn't believe i got 260 motorway miles on half a tank

But this was a one off.i never normally have to use motorways

But my day to day drive is all b roads.so i use the gearbox a lot less.can be in 6th at 35-40mph and it still pull away pritty well

Yes getting up 80mph plus it starts to get revy.but it doesn't bother me

For cl9 use ep3 gears and final drive.you get the best of both worlds
 
Thank you so much for info and advice did you use ep3 gears and final drive to get 5.33 ratio ?

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When he says final drive, he means the diff pinion and Crown wheel combo.


Just changing that alone would shorten all the gears and pull them closer together.

The best Street setup for a daily though, is to have a close set of gears for acceleration (ep3 gear set with accord 6th), so you retain a tall 6th for motorway cruising, which is what ukcl9 is referring to.

It's both having your cake and eating it.
 
ukcl9 thanks have sent dinoc pm hopefully will reply soon.
 
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