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Clutch help 2.2 i-CTDi

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classfreedom

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Accord 2.2 i-CTDi
Hi everyone, new member here.
Picked up an immaculate Accord i-CTDi on a 2007 plate with only 56k genuine miles.
Car works perfectly and is strong in all the gears, but i notice when i give it a bootfull or overtake in 3rd and 4th gear when it hits 2500rpm the clutch will slip momentarily, once backed off, the clutch will catch and i can carry on accelerating. (this is sporadic)

I guess the reason for the post is i have read every single thread on this site and the civic site about all the 2.2 engines clutch issues and troubles and am terrified ive just bought a car that needs a £850 clutch change could this be a case of early clutch failure ? self adjusting pressure plate not working correctly ? or this cruise control switch adjustment not correctly positioned ( what even is this mechanism can it be self adjusted) ?

any help would be appreciated, seen people having to replace the DMF and clutch but not untill 150 to 200k miles so what could be happening in my case ?

any help would be appreciated !
 
Most garages can tackle this car now, and you don’t need to replace the flywheel unless it’s out of tolerance. A lot of flywheels get changed just because it’s easier to do while the transmission is out. A clutch kit is not expensive and labour should be typically around £200.
 
classfreedom said:
Hi everyone, new member here.
Picked up an immaculate Accord i-CTDi on a 2007 plate with only 56k genuine miles.
Car works perfectly and is strong in all the gears, but i notice when i give it a bootfull or overtake in 3rd and 4th gear when it hits 2500rpm the clutch will slip momentarily, once backed off, the clutch will catch and i can carry on accelerating. (this is sporadic)

I guess the reason for the post is i have read every single thread on this site and the civic site about all the 2.2 engines clutch issues and troubles and am terrified ive just bought a car that needs a £850 clutch change could this be a case of early clutch failure ? self adjusting pressure plate not working correctly ? or this cruise control switch adjustment not correctly positioned ( what even is this mechanism can it be self adjusted) ?

any help would be appreciated, seen people having to replace the DMF and clutch but not untill 150 to 200k miles so what could be happening in my case ?

any help would be appreciated !
Click to expand...

Has the engine management been remapped ?
 
classfreedom said:
Hi everyone, new member here.
Picked up an immaculate Accord i-CTDi on a 2007 plate with only 56k genuine miles.
Car works perfectly and is strong in all the gears, but i notice when i give it a bootfull or overtake in 3rd and 4th gear when it hits 2500rpm the clutch will slip momentarily, once backed off, the clutch will catch and i can carry on accelerating. (this is sporadic)

I guess the reason for the post is i have read every single thread on this site and the civic site about all the 2.2 engines clutch issues and troubles and am terrified ive just bought a car that needs a £850 clutch change could this be a case of early clutch failure ? self adjusting pressure plate not working correctly ? or this cruise control switch adjustment not correctly positioned ( what even is this mechanism can it be self adjusted) ?

any help would be appreciated, seen people having to replace the DMF and clutch but not untill 150 to 200k miles so what could be happening in my case ?

any help would be appreciated !
Click to expand...

It only needs a new clutch if you going to continue to give it a bootfull in 3rd or 4th. Drive it steadily and the current clutch can last for 10's of thousands more miles.
 
Don't forget to order 325 spare part ending number clutch kit, if OE kit (which from right place is good price ;)
 
F6HAD said:
Most garages can tackle this car now, and you don’t need to replace the flywheel unless it’s out of tolerance. A lot of flywheels get changed just because it’s easier to do while the transmission is out. A clutch kit is not expensive and labour should be typically around £200.
Click to expand...
OK

Time for a replacement as the last trip out was scary with slip in every gear unless being gentle.

Whilst I think £200 is unrealistic are there any garages nearby that can do the deed for under £500 ?

I have checked the subframe under the radiators and all good. I will risk not chaging the flywheel as the Tourer has been geartrain smooth in the nine years I have owned her.

I can get a new one ( rather than remanufactured for the £20 difference) though the one question is over the other thread from F6HAD and early wear take up.

Both new and remanufactured listings state two model numbers
22105-PGE-305 and
22105-PGE-315

Was there ever a later style clutch part number that made this earlyslip a thing of the past in order that Honda stopped replacing under warranty ?

Thanks in advance.
 
yeah, I'll snap you some pictures of one this weekend, got an oe honda set laid in the garage waiting for install
 
mlkehunt said:
gallery here
https://imgur.com/a/mEItlKZ
Click to expand...
Thank you. It is quite an eye opener to see the various clutch options from aftermarket suppliers marked with identical Honda reference numbers, though I ***ume the genuine box of parts was somewhat more than £120.

The only common links are the diameter - 240mm - and the number of bits in the box unless somebody knows different.


I will have another browse during next few days, the tourer won't be driven too many miles in this heat.

I'm still on the lookout for a local mechanic with reasonable charges, whilst I did replace suspension components two years back I don't think I could contemplate getting under her again, moreso after the split pin incident.

Thanks again.
 
Last edited:
no problem
I paid £579 ex vat for the kit with a LUK dual mass flywheel, coxmotorparts sells the kit without dmf for about £300
It's probably fair to say that the LUK set 100% identical to the OE honda set since they're the OE supplier, but if it's anything like other pattern parts vsOE parts then the quality control is more stringent. Quite common for ball joints, bearings etc, and is definitely the case with the OE denso fuel strainer compared to aftermarket ones

idk where I read it, might've been here or on civinfo but the "uprated" clutch sets from places like CG motorsport/clutch specialists all use the 325 pressure plate + the sporty clutch discs are just a stock friction disc carrier with the rivets and abrasive removed, replaced with their own compounds
 
OK, I took the plunge on pay day and bought the kit that claimed to have compatibility with the 22105-PGE-325 version (and two earlier numbers).

Since I was also entitled to a 20% discount on the day I got the clutch/plate/bearing for a shade over £100 so ***ume it is identical to the type used in the first i-CTDI but I might be disingenguous to the seller.

Trade number on the side is ACL 1045 and is somewhat lighter than I was expecting, pictures later.

Looking ahead I suppose I will need to drain out fluids before disasembly, aircon, brakes , radiator, plus exhaust removal - hopefully - somewhere other than the manifold, or is it more straightforward than that ?

Still looking for someone that can do the deed locally
 
Channel Hopper said:
Looking ahead I suppose I will need to drain out fluids before disasembly, aircon, brakes , radiator, plus exhaust removal - hopefully - somewhere other than the manifold, or is it more straightforward than that ?
Click to expand...
I can tell you that the ESM replacement procedure does not call for engine removal and fluid drain bar gear oil. I can print out the procedure to a pdf for you but I recommend this excellent video as reference. the only thing he skips bar torque specs is pressure plate preload with a sac tool
 
mlkehunt said:
I can tell you that the ESM replacement procedure does not call for engine removal and fluid drain bar gear oil. I can print out the procedure to a pdf for you but I recommend this excellent video as reference. the only thing he skips bar torque specs is pressure plate preload with a sac tool
Click to expand...
You are an absolute star.

I think from watching everything so far (the dismantle and cleaning of the bell housing internals) I might just be able to carry it out here.

Just looking at the raft of tools the only thing I am missing is the second set of axle stands and the leccy torque tool, though I do have the mechanical version plus a Halfords cogless ratchet thingy.

I will give the car a good jetwash above and below this weekend and see if there is anything that might throw a fish into the air conditioner.
 
Quick question

Once the gearbox oil is drained, and the appropriate suspension bolts removed, do the driveshafts really pop out like in the video or have I missed something ?
 
unless you have a really stubborn circlip or crusty splines, yeah they just pop out. swift and decisive prying/hammering works better than trying to ease it off
 
Jetwashed inside and out and everything looks accessible but has shown up the continued demise of two of the engine mount rubbers.

One cheap battery ratchet wrench on order.
 
Good luck with the job! I did this a few months ago when it started slipping. 210€ for the clutch and 15€ for the alignment tool, done it in a day.
 
Ah, alignment tool.

The kit comes with a plastic threaded version, (and the paperwork mentions a pressure dial)

Should I be looking at getting more bits before stripping down ?
 

Self-Adjusting Clutch Tool | VS011 | Sealey

1 Year Guarantee - High quality die-cast aluminium tool. Suitable for pre-tensioning clutch plate combination prior to re-***embly.
www.sealey.co.uk www.sealey.co.uk
I have one of these, fits 100% but check with mechanics locally, maybe someone can lend you one on a weekend? It's kinda steep for a once in a lifetime job, but I need it since we have 3 diesel hondas
can be had for £100 less on amazon
 
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