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Clutch issue or More? - Newbie

SinghsatioN

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West Mids
Car
Honda Accord Type S
Hi Guys, very new to this forum (as of 10 mins ago!)

I have a 7th Gen 2.4 Honda Accord Type S, whilst driving the other day I found what i have been told as 'clutch slipping' this happend more from 3rd gear in the higher rev range applying power, but also getting some issues selecting the gears as smoothly now, reverse doesnt go in without a crunch! (which hurts everytime I do it) but now putting into 1st feel like it goes in with some force, occasionally 2nd.... sometimes its all fine

Is this just a clutch issue? or something more?

Thanks all in advance!

H
 
I suggest bleeding the clutch hydraulics as an initial fix. This wouldn't help with any slippage issues, but might help the clutch to operate properly and allow the gears to be smoothly selected.
 
Cheers! Is that something that's easy to do at home?... Might give it a shot on the weekend if it is... The clutch would not ruin the gearbox or anything would it? (sorry for the simple questions pretty new to all this)
 
Nice one... Sorry if I sound abit thick :$... Is the slave cylinder the 'piston' thing just above the clutch pedal itself under the dash?... My cruise control stopped working today today as well., but if I lifted the clutch pedal with my foot it comes on... I looked at the piston when I stopped and it looks 'loose' like it depresses about an inch before there is some pressure...
 
The master cylinder (CMC) is directly behind the pedal. It's the master that pushes fluid to the slave (CSC). The CSC is at the front of the engine and pushes the release lever that releases the clutch. You bleed the system from here.

If you have excessive play in the pedal that wasn't there before then you probably have a leak or air in the line. Did you check the clutch fluid level? Are there any leaks?

I suggest you flush the fluid first. When you do this you can inspect for leaks.
 
Regarding the gear change, is there a link that could be knakerd or loose? Something similar happened to a golf I had and all it was a little plastic clip which had come loose from a ball conection link.
 
It could be the linkage, absolutely, but seeing as you're getting a loose clutch pedal, I'd start with the hydraulics.
 
Hi guys sorry in delay!... It's all work work work... Well I looked at the master cylinder next to the pedal there wasn't any visible leakage the slave admittedly could not find but saw the reservoir thing and the level seems slightly low but it was ok... Went to the garage... They charging £400 for new 3 part clutch, gearbox oil and will sort out the (gear crunching) this all includes fitting and replacement of the master/Slave if need be... Good price? Few other garages waiting on quotes but they all around 250 ish...
 
I may have misunderstood the question, but £400 seems a lot if other garages are around £250. And it doesn't sound like the garage has done a proper diagnosis, they are just going to change things until it all works OK.

And £250 is a lot more expensive than just bleeding/flushing the clutch (which would be around £5 for some DOT4 brake fluid)!
 
It's £400 for a 3-part clutch kit (pressure, friction plate and release bearing), I seriously doubt that will cover the costs of the parts and labour. A clutch change in an Accord is quite labour intensive. Are you sure the garage knows what they're doing?

As for doing it for £250.... unlikely. What exactly are you asking to be done for those prices?
 
Right... I have checked the master =no leaks ... Checked inside and out Slave found it (finally) ... = no leaks.... The rubber grommit from it is Proper squashed though (like if u squashed the rubber from it back it's that size) ... When I got someone to press the clutch I saw it move about 2/3cm or so if that.... Is it supposed to move that much? Or more?. I am going to get some help for the bleed/flushing and try that first defo! Getting to the slave seems like a mission! .... Much rather pay a few quid than a few hundred!!
The garage who quoted me 400 I have used lot and it a friend of one of the family... (maybe a mates rates?) They havent failed me yet on any work on the cars iv done in the past... It's not a small backstreet garage either, they work on cars for dealers to. But he did say what u guys mentioned that they would heck check the master/Slave cylinders first... (but I will check exactly what parts they have me for)...
I went to a few garages to get some ideas on price for the worse case scenario should it be the clutch.. (they are all going to call me tomorrow though with their right quotes) ... places I have requested a quotes for iv told exactly what happens... That I get a lot of gear crunching going into reverse, difficulty selecting other gears Sometimes and there is slight slipping when I apply power especially in the higher rev range.
I'm not all clued up on the size of the task involved my knowledge of my Honda has come through drips and drabs as iv had to sort things out... hence I'm here looking for the great Oracle knowledge of you guys :)
 
Well on the slave, yep, it should move about 2-3cm - can't remember the exact difference. But here's the thing, if it should move 3cm and it only moves 2.5cm, can get a crunch! Now, it could be a pressure plate, or an internal leak in the CMC, so that's why we are suggesting that route first. It's much cheaper.

Get the fluid flushed and re-inspect the master and slave - then I'd look at more expensive things.

As for mate's rates, it's about 7-8 hours of labour on the Accord's clutch if you've done it before. It's a 2 day job if you haven't!
 
Right ok when I saw it move so little I thought that was it no pressure in the slabe ... The main crunch (which kills me everytime) I get is when in reverse, so I pressed the pedal all all the way as far as it could go put it in reverse and no crunch but a slight movement.. So like u said it's that half cm which could be the difference!

Am I right in saying would have to take the battery out and get to the slave that way... About an hour to do all all that?

Well if he charges me 400 for all that and it should be a lot more I ain't going to say nothing! Lol I think they have done it before... I haven't asked how long he would need the car for...

First things first this bleed! Wish me luck!... Better get ready! Lol
 
SinghsatioN said:
Right ok when I saw it move so little I thought that was it no pressure in the slabe ... The main crunch (which kills me everytime) I get is when in reverse, so I pressed the pedal all all the way as far as it could go put it in reverse and no crunch but a slight movement.. So like u said it's that half cm which could be the difference!

Am I right in saying would have to take the battery out and get to the slave that way... About an hour to do all all that?

Well if he charges me 400 for all that and it should be a lot more I ain't going to say nothing! Lol I think they have done it before... I haven't asked how long he would need the car for...

First things first this bleed! Wish me luck!... Better get ready! Lol
A slave cylinder is about £60 for a pattern part (ADL) and fitting takes about 1 hour to include a bleed. Yes, you remove the battery to get at the slave, I'd imagine you wouldn't have to, but I did. Also make sure that you use a flared wrench on the hydraulic line - it's really soft!

BTW - bleed is a pain, you'll need to compress the slave to remove all the air.
 
I'm still confused re the £400? If that's just for the slave then it's way too much.

If it's for a clutch and potentially a slave, I'd think it's too little.

What are you getting for the £400?
 
Yeah I have seen a slave cylinder which I am going to order but just going to do a bleed first... I tried putting my hand down front of the engine and Prob just get enough room... Well I think I have YouTube'd the life out how to do it, i find out when I do it lol...
Another question If I can... Would the gearbox oil be beneficial to change aswell?... Help with the gear crunching? Just saw a few videos and got me me thinking something while the battery is out I can replace? (If something that is on a manual - sorry it's a dumb question lol :$)
I'm going to be going by the garage tomorrow and I'll ask them for a list of what what they are quoting... I did ask ask for clutch to be replaced but I'll find out tomorrow and let you know...
 
Sounds like the clutch and hydraulics need looked at.

Slipping in 3rd whilst accelerating certainly is indicative of worn clutch material regardless of what condition the hydraulics are in.
 
SinghsatioN said:
Another question If I can... Would the gearbox oil be beneficial to change aswell?... Help with the gear crunching? Just saw a few videos and got me me thinking something while the battery is out I can replace? (If something that is on a manual - sorry it's a dumb question lol :$)
I'm going to be going by the garage tomorrow and I'll ask them for a list of what what they are quoting... I did ask ask for clutch to be replaced but I'll find out tomorrow and let you know...
Changing the MTF is unlikely to fix the crunching - unless the wrong fluid was put in there in the first place (wrong friction additives). However, the box really loves a fluid change and it's a low cost item. What you get with tired fluid is the gearbox is stiff and notchy. Hard grinding is more likely related to the clutch not releasing properly.
 
Hi Guys, sorry about the delay!... well i had a little intresting turn in events... just cruising around getting all this stuff for the clutch bleed... slowed down went to put it into 2nd which sometimes goes in with a little nudge and heard what seemed to be a 'slight thud' - i thought that something had hit the underside of the car because i felt it in around the ball of my foot which at the time was on the clutch pedal I so I got home and checked around the clutch pedal underside just incase didn’t see anything, looking around the clutch pedal there was 'play' when I depressed the clutch and the bracket was warping shifting to the side when pushed down with my hand. Looked to the far left (bolt that is pretty much hidden) the bracket which holds the clutch pedal onto the back had snapped from the left bolt! (Very wierd!) - took a picture ill upload this. So I have ordered another clutch pedal luckily from a breaker for cheap in good nick and working rather than the £90 Honda were going to charge me (Thing just done seem to stop going wrong sometimes!). I have rested the car and once the new pedal comes I will have to get the tools and spanners out and do it all then, inc the bleed. (I topped up the fluid and felt a difference in the pedal)
I also went back to the garage Jayok who quoted em the £400 and got them to print a list of what they were going to do. Included was :-
1 - 3 Part Clutch ***embly
2 - Gearbox Oil
3 - Clutch bleed
4 - Labour
He had a little look at it and did say that it could be just the slave cylinder but he would check the car before any major spending £££s
 
So the clutch pedal metal frame failed? Believe it or not that's a common enough fault on the Acura TSXs (the American equivalent). But it seems to affect mainly LHD cars, I've only seen one other post on here with regard to a RHD failure. It certainly is a cheap fix.

Chaging it isn't difficult, but Getting at the top bolt is a pain, as a suggestion, remove the climate controlling solenoid you give you access to the bolt. Should take about 30 mins to do then.

Re the clutch change. £400 is a steal! I wish it was that cheap over here (costs circa €900)
 
Yeah the metai fram around it, i thought hat was very wierd as the metal looks to be pretty thick. I got a pedal from a 2.2 Honda Accord 2003-7 that should be ok?...looking at the diagrams etc all seems to be the same.

Is the climate control solenoid the thing nearer the centre console? yeah it looks to be a few botls, but gives me a good chance to check out the master cylinder also.

Well i knoww £400 is a goodprice now! lol you could bring it here and get it fixed and take it back still be cheaper? lol :)
 
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