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Clutch Master Cylinder - Accord 2009 2.2 i-dtec type s Saloon

David16256

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Hi Everyone,

I have just bought 2009 2.2 I-dtec, type s and experiencing some issues with clutch squeaking noise.

I have read some of the threads here and it seems to be a known Honda issue. I have sprayed coupled of times with silicon grease & white grease, but after a couple of days it keeps coming back.

I have now decided to replace the master cylinder, but can't decide which one to go for. Honda genuine with over £200 seems a bit expensive and it looks like its one of their weaknesses.
I am thinking to go for an aftermarket with cheaper option but don't really know which brand would be best.

Can anyone advise which aftermarket brand to choose for this solution please.

Many thanks in advance for you support.
 

csak1981

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If it's more like a creaking noise than a squeaking noise then it could be the spring mechanism at top of clutch pedal high up that's impossible to get to and grease.

I'm hoping to remove the whole clutch pedal tomorrow in order to get to the spring to clean and re-grease. I've always noticed during warmer days the creaking comes and is worse the warmer it gets or the longer the car is driven.

This could be your problem rather than the cost of replacing master cylinder, I'll be sure to post the results of re greasing.

My only concern is according to my workshop manual honda states to use multi purpose grease which is lithium based I believe and the contact areas have plastic bushes which could degrade with the lithium content. I'm in two minds whether to use silicon grease instead
 

David16256

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I thought It was a spring too, but as soon as I spray into cylinder squeezing noise goes away in matter of no time. So the affect is immediate.

I was going to spray with lithium but decided not to for the same reason.

Hope it all works out for you tomorrow, fingers crossed
 

F6HAD

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What you need is molykote grease, designed for o rings. Lithium and silicone greases tend to dry out quickly and actually harden the rubber making the problem worse.

get some molykote in a syringe and use some earth sleeving on the end push as much as you can into the cylinder and keep pumping the pedal to help it get past the piston. Messy job but it will solve it. It’s a common issue on all Honda manual cars, they all share the same setup.
 

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csak1981

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I attempted to remove clutch pedal yesterday and was halted as couldn't get access to left mounting nut which secures the pedal ***embly as well as the master cylinder. The right mounting nut and top bolt seem to be easy enough.

Anybody got any tips on how to get pedal out?

My honda worktop manual on cd-rom lists procedure as,

Remove dash under cover - easy
Remove pin and retaining clip - easy
Remove 2 nuts and bolt - can't get to left nut (was really itchy too!)

No mention of removing nearby parts to get to left nut (itching now unbearable lol)
 

146fossil

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Same issue with the creaking noise on the clutch pedal and wanted to remove the ***embly but how on earth do you get to that left mounting nut. Wanted to grease that top spring and the master cylinder rod or even replace it.... However cant get to that left nut....:rolleyes: Has anyone been successfully and point me in the right direction?
Honda accord 2.2 i dtec estate.
 

csak1981

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Hopefully somebody will be along soon to relieve the itch as I've still to revisit this
 

David16256

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Hopefully somebody will be along soon to relieve the itch as I've still to revisit this
Hi, molykote grease, designed for o rings Farhad suggested applied this good couple of month ago and haven't had any problems since.

Make sure you apply into master and slave cylinders
 

csak1981

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It's the left nut that we are looking to get off in order to get the pedal ***embly out to get to the top spring so we can lubricated the the bushings were the spring pivots.

This is the only part I've not been able to lubricate due to access but can't get the left mounting nut off that secures the pedal ***embly as well as the master cylinder to the firewall. I managed to squeeze some silicone grease into master cylinder rod when I first got car which got rid of part of the noise I was experiencing but the creak definitely sounds like it could be the top spring.

Also would be helpful if somebody could post an image link of the specific grease to use for the master cylinder as when i do a search for molykote grease there are many variants.
 

146fossil

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Update... So this morning I removed the drivers seat for better access and can confirm the car was built around that left nut at factory... I still have absolutely no idea how to get to it...

So instead I gave the clutch pedal ***embly a good greasing over, focusing mainly on the master cylinder rod by getting as much grease into the cylinder when the pedal is pressed down. Also to mention with the seat removed you can get some good access to that top spring but you will have to feel around blind.

After all this I can report the creaking noise has gone for now but I'm convinced the master cylinder is on its way out and the noise will return at some point.

Also to note, if removing the drivers seat (disconnect the battery first) before disconnecting the SRS yellow plug under the seat... This will should stop any warning lights on the dash when putting everything back together....
 

csak1981

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Good work and write-up, hopefully the noise will stay away and your master cylinder will be fine.

Just wondering though how on earth any garage would go about getting master cylinder off if ever needing replaced.

I can actually see the mechanics at Honda having a hard time with this as I thought I would be having an easy job of it as I have the official workshop manual on cdrom with the official procedure.
The official procedure just says to remove bolts with no mention of anything else needing removed first.

Somebody must know how to get to it???
 

Channel Hopper

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Good work and write-up, hopefully the noise will stay away and your master cylinder will be fine.

Just wondering though how on earth any garage would go about getting master cylinder off if ever needing replaced.

I can actually see the mechanics at Honda having a hard time with this as I thought I would be having an easy job of it as I have the official workshop manual on cdrom with the official procedure.
The official procedure just says to remove bolts with no mention of anything else needing removed first.

Somebody must know how to get to it???
In most cases, disa ssembly is the reverse of a ssembly so if there is something getting in the way, the chance is it needs removing.
 

146fossil

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Good work and write-up, hopefully the noise will stay away and your master cylinder will be fine.

Just wondering though how on earth any garage would go about getting master cylinder off if ever needing replaced.

I can actually see the mechanics at Honda having a hard time with this as I thought I would be having an easy job of it as I have the official workshop manual on cdrom with the official procedure.
The official procedure just says to remove bolts with no mention of anything else needing removed first.

Somebody must know how to get to it???
This is the left nut fitting position with the pedal removed... Looks so simple just one little nut a bolt..:mad::mad::mad:
Web capture_21-1-2022_163719_www.ebay.co.uk.jpeg
 

Bounder

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I had a look at mine tonight and I think with a 1/4" or 3/8" socket set and a longish extension with a universal joint it is accessible from the front if you drop the panel just below the wheel and go straight in.
 

csak1981

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You mean the panel below the steering wheel?
As I've had this off and still can't see the nut from any angle. All the gubbings for the climate are in the way I actually think the master cylinder was installed before the dashboard at the factory.
I'm going to stick my endoscope camera in to actually see the nut then go in as you say with long 1/4" extension and see if I can get it on the nut.
If I could get the nut off going in blind I don't fancy putting it back on blind so hopefully the endoscope can be a bit of reassurance
 

Bounder

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There looks to be a small electronic unit with a green plug that obstructs the access to the nut, you can see this from underneath the dash. I didn't have time to have a decent look at how to remove that but I think that is the main obstruction.
 

csak1981

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Yep I think that may be one of the motors for the flaps for climate control. I'll see if there are instructions in my workshop manual cdrom for removing.
It's strange why the official procedure for removing clutch pedal has no mention of removing any other parts first apart from the dash undercover.
Usually the procedures list everything that needs removed in correct sequence in order to get to what you need to
 
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