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Clutch Suggestions For 2.2 CDTI Stage2

I

immynanj

New Member
Messages
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Location
Bromley
Car
Accord 2.2 i-CDTI
Hi guys and gals,

So its been a couple of days since Fahad did my stage 2 remap, (Thanks again!) but now I have a problem, as soon as I hit boost my clutch slips. So now I'm driving around keeping it under 2000revs. Its like I'm in limp mode!

So, I want a clutch that will last and I'm thinking of the CG stage 2 (http://www.clutch-specialists.co.uk/cg-motorsport-stage-2-clutch-kit_p31002418.htm). I'm scared to take it to an independent but Honda by me wont fit it, they will just fit what they supply. Anyone have recommendations? I'm in south London/Kent.

Also, Is it worth getting a flywheel? My car has 150k on the clock so shes not new. Cox motor parts have a good price on this, (http://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/honda-accord-luk-dual-mass-flywheel20032008-p-1339.html) but then, its going to cost more in labour I suppose? Obviously I'd rather do them together if needs be, don't want to have to fit a flywheel 20 miles after the clutch.

Sorry if i'm blabbering, its just i can feel the hole burning in my pocket!
 
Sorry to hear about the clutch dude.

Go for the dual friction setup
 
I had my stage one done at 130k and my clutch started slipping badly, it was probably already on its way out. I replaced with a standard stock LUK clutch, I didn't go for the flywheel option even though the mechanic insisted because I wanted him to check the play in the flywheel first, if it's within the limiter marks it's supposed to be good. The flywheel was good so not changed and the stock clutch worked well, I then upgraded to stage 2 remap and the clutch is handling perfectly fine. I tend to drive at 2000 Rpm. I found that the stage 1 was higher in torque at lower speeds up to 50/60mph and stage 2 is not as torquey in low gear speeds but more torquey after 50/60mph, so the clutch probably is pushed more if you throttle at top end. This is just my driving experience technically I could be talking nonsense. My new stock clutch has been in for 10k and it drives and handles stage 2 perfectly fine.
 
Spoke to the guys at CG they told me to go for the 666 setup, I told them i was recommended the dual friction clutch and he told me (his words) "whoever told you that is an idiot!" oh dear! well I trust you Fahad, and with the 666 setup being double the price i thought this a bit fishy.

Anyway, I've been quoted £780 for fitting, YES FITTING ONLY, and Honda have quoted £650 with the clutch but they will only fit parts supplied by them.

To be honest I think I may do what my namesake in Rochdale did and get a Honda one.

Now all i have to do is book in at Lookers Orpington, you wouldn't believe how hard it is to even get a call back from them, let alone speak to someone straight away!
 
Lol then it's confirmed.. I'm an idiot.
 
Nope i had my dual friction clutch from them teplaced the dmf too
Thabks to fads wprk shop:) its soo much better :)
-the 666 clutch kit i think its gonna b harsh on the pedel
 
I'm ***uming the problem with that CG uprated clutch has something to do with civic owners, unrefined maps, and wheel spins in McDonalds car parks.

It'll be up to the job, provided you're not a melon.
 
There are plenty running our stage 2 on standard Honda clutches without issue. Just depends on how you drive it.
 
Exactly. Mine's done 7000 miles on that map now, with a stock clutch, and it's not had a sniff of slip.

DMF and clutch kit were virtually new at the time of the map, and despite the throttle getting used regularly, the car doesn't get abused on the clutch.
 
F6HAD said:
Lol then it's confirmed.. I'm an idiot.
Click to expand...

Your not a idiot .. i have dual friction clutch from CG on my Accord...y car has been remaped to 185 hp and 435 NM.. this clutch is the best solution for every day driver...
 
I've done tons running that clutch, it's perfect for a tuned Honda. I've no idea why they would supposedly slate one of their own products.
 
Hi everyone

Fahad did stage 2 on my honda too about 8 months ago.car works brilliant after it.
I knew the clutch was used slightly before he did it. I drive on it till now, but I can feel that it's getting worst and worst especially around 2000rpms when I want to accelerate hardly. I asked few mechanics about quote for replacing just a clutch cause I think flywheel might be still good.i also asked them if they can check fly wheel during the work. Price is around 600-700 pounds for labour plus parts, most of the mechanics say that I have to change fly wheel and clutch together. One on the mechanic told he can change just the clutch but without guaranty.
What do you think guys, from your own experience? Any chance I can check flywheel my self during driving?
Is it worth to change just a clutch if flywheel seems to be OK? I got accord 2.2ictdi executive 2004 118k.
Is there any special way to drive remapped car to have fun and don't damage the clutch too much?
 
This is what they said to me, but when i phoned Honda, they said the Flywheel only needs changing if on inspection it the movement is outside its limit markers. The garage i used insisted that I MUST change the flywheel at the same time as they often get customers returning a few months down the line with a faulty flywheel. but I told him to first check it, if it is outside the limit markers then replace it, i mean they only have to phone for the parts and they get delivered rather quickly. I guess they dont like to have a car up on the ramp waiting for parts to arrive. Anyway the mechanic i used changed the clutch only, when i asked him about the condition of the flywheel, he said it was actually okay. The reason they insist you change it at the same time is because the labour hours are still the same they still have to take the bottom end of the car off, its a big job, so if your flywheel was knackered later they would still charge about the same as they charged to replace the clutch.

I have mine mapped by Fahad to Stage 2 running on LUK clutch from Eurocarparts, covered 10k miles, no issues so far.

I think this fool at CG should be held accountable




kamil10 said:
Hi everyone

most of the mechanics say that I have to change fly wheel and clutch together. One on the mechanic told he can change just the clutch but without guaranty.
Click to expand...
 
Tolerance for flywheel play is 6 - 36mm. If it's within those limits it should be ok
 
f2raf. How is your honda behave with new clutch around 2000rpms when you press acceleration hardly down on second gear? My one is sliping, 3Rd,4th and 5th gear even more.

I will probably use mechanic I used before, if I'll be lucky I'll pay around £700 if not double price.
I thinik I'll use luk clutch, guys are happy about it, should be ok for weekend driving.

Thanks
 
With the new clutch i had installed, i have covered about 10k miles, the car is running strong, the clutch does not slip, even when i floor it the revs can push up to 4 & red line and the clutch does not slip, i dont drive like that but when i do want to put my foot down i am able to do so. Here are my thoughts, i found that the clutch slipped more with a stage 1 remap because the revs shoot up faster, when you floor it, but I find the stage 2 remap is designed to prolong the revs so that you have longer more power at the top end so the revs move along slower, if that makes sense. I feel the stage 2 remap is probably much suited to a stock clutch as it can drive without strain under 2000 revs. Im probabbly talking a load of nonsense but just going of how may car behaves. I didnt have my flywheel changed and I was charged £400 for the clucth & fitting, they used a LUK clutch from eurocarparts, i believe Honda use LUK clutches. Hope that helps, would be good to have a Forum meet this summer so we can see how cars behave before & after remaps.


kamil10 said:
f2raf. How is your honda behave with new clutch around 2000rpms when you press acceleration hardly down on second gear? My one is sliping, 3Rd,4th and 5th gear even more.

I will probably use mechanic I used before, if I'll be lucky I'll pay around £700 if not double price.
I thinik I'll use luk clutch, guys are happy about it, should be ok for weekend driving.

Thanks
Click to expand...
 
Thank you for all infos.
I will go for luk clutch too, I think it should hold for a while, I am not driving like fast and furious but as you said, I want to be able to use it from time to time without clutch sliping. It's helpful in the city.
 
Mine has started slipping too so this thread has been of interest to me.

A trusted local garage has quoted me £400 for labour if I supply the clutch.

Fahad recommended I contacted CG as their specs do change from time-time.

I Contacted CG who too recommended the 666 setup for the stg2 BHP/Torque figures.

Id rather not spend £750 for a Setup that includes an SMF I don't need.

Im never going to use it on track and im not that heavy footed so do I:

1) just change it for a std LUK clutch and be careful, saving a couple of hundred quid
2) Go for the dual friction unit that many on here use but will "perform more adequately" in a tuned turbo diesel vehicle" and has a stronger pressure plate
3) Go all out for a 666 unit, safe in the knowledge that it will handle mountains of torque but spend a fortune in the process and have to put of with extra noise/judder that many have reported.

I appreciate that I have probably just answered my own question there!, but want to know that im making the right choice before spending a small fortune.
 
Chris £400 is way too pricey just for labour. My mechanic does them for £200
 
F6HAD said:
Chris £400 is way too pricey just for labour. My mechanic does them for £200
Click to expand...
Blimey - I thought it was an 8hr job as the front sub-frame needs to be unbolted. I will get back onto him as thats mean't to be a "mate's-rate"!
 
Yes it is about 8 hours but really most garages will give you a fixed labour rate instead of an hourly rate. Honda used to supply and fit for a fixed price of around £595.. So you might as well take it to a dealer if you want to spend that much
 
Thanks Fahad. out of interest which of the 3 clutch options would you suggest? If I go with OEM then can take it to a dealer however an upgraded unit would require an independant
 
I would stick an oem Honda clutch in it and find someone prepared to take the job on at a more palatable rate.
 
You're welcome to bring it up to my mechanic, drop the night before and collect following evening. Train stations are probably 15-20 min walk
 
Thanks for the advice guys - its in as we speak (Fahad - would love to have taken it to Halifax but my work commitments have prevented that).

Getting the LUK kit fitted as per your advice and also a new DMF since the car has done 102K miles now and I don't really want to take the gearbox off again!.

Latest feedback from the garage is that the release bearing and pressure plate were "knackered", but the friction plate and DMF were also heavily worn.

Fingers crossed it should be fine
 
cool - hopefully you're not paying £400 labour!
 
Im not, but I will be paying more than £200 however - garages are tight here in Nottingham!
 
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