Howlinator
New Member
- Messages
- 23
- Reaction score
- 5
- Car
- 2009 Accord EX
Hi All,
My Accord has been subject to a few of the common faults that I see others posting about here. I just wanted to share a few adorable fixes, before you go out and replace expensive parts or fork out for a garage to repair them.
1. Passenger window switch - The relay in this is connected to a number of other electrical switches in the car and can cause problems with the boot opening, the electric mirrors and the rear window switches. This was the case when I bought my car 2 years ago. I removed the switch, sprayed the internals with contact cleaner, wiped them down with a cotton bud, reassembled. No problem since.
2. ABS + TSA + ABS Lights on dash - In my experience, this is caused by a sticking ABS motor. It can be expensive to replace or have reconditioned. Simple fix is to locate the motor, just under you windscreen filler cap, and tap it lightly with a wheel hammer or brace. It will knock off whatever residue was causing your motor to stick. May not be a permanent fix, but will at least buy you a few month and get you through an MOT.
3. Limp Mode due to Fault P00AF - This is cause by a dirty DPF causing soot to coat the turbo veins. The limp mode and fault can be erased with a OBD2 reader, but it will return, generally at cruising speeds or while idling. 2 step approach for this one.
1. Wynn Turbo Cleaner Spray. I've tried fuel additive turbo cleaners, but they are not effective. Bring engine up to operating temperature. Remove the pipe between the air filter box and the turbo and spray a can of Wynn Turbo Cleaner Spray directly into the turbo with the engine running in short bursts until the can is empty. Allow to idle for 3-5 minutes and then rev to 3000rpm 10 times. Refit fit the pipe and erase fault codes caused by having the MAF sensor disconnected.
2. DPF Flush - Spray a whole can of foaming DPF cleaner through the temperature sensor opening on the DPF. Leave stand for 30 minutes and then run the engine to clear out the residue. This should help to prevent the common DPF fault that others here have experienced, as well as preventing further clogging of the turbo veins.
I know there will be people here that will kill me for posting this and will insist that you always need to replace anything faulty with brand new parts, but these have all worked for me and have cost me less that 50 quid in total, so I know someone will be glad of it. It should also provide clarity on some of these faults, as I have seen a lot of incorrect information while searching for causes of these issues.
My Accord has been subject to a few of the common faults that I see others posting about here. I just wanted to share a few adorable fixes, before you go out and replace expensive parts or fork out for a garage to repair them.
1. Passenger window switch - The relay in this is connected to a number of other electrical switches in the car and can cause problems with the boot opening, the electric mirrors and the rear window switches. This was the case when I bought my car 2 years ago. I removed the switch, sprayed the internals with contact cleaner, wiped them down with a cotton bud, reassembled. No problem since.
2. ABS + TSA + ABS Lights on dash - In my experience, this is caused by a sticking ABS motor. It can be expensive to replace or have reconditioned. Simple fix is to locate the motor, just under you windscreen filler cap, and tap it lightly with a wheel hammer or brace. It will knock off whatever residue was causing your motor to stick. May not be a permanent fix, but will at least buy you a few month and get you through an MOT.
3. Limp Mode due to Fault P00AF - This is cause by a dirty DPF causing soot to coat the turbo veins. The limp mode and fault can be erased with a OBD2 reader, but it will return, generally at cruising speeds or while idling. 2 step approach for this one.
1. Wynn Turbo Cleaner Spray. I've tried fuel additive turbo cleaners, but they are not effective. Bring engine up to operating temperature. Remove the pipe between the air filter box and the turbo and spray a can of Wynn Turbo Cleaner Spray directly into the turbo with the engine running in short bursts until the can is empty. Allow to idle for 3-5 minutes and then rev to 3000rpm 10 times. Refit fit the pipe and erase fault codes caused by having the MAF sensor disconnected.
2. DPF Flush - Spray a whole can of foaming DPF cleaner through the temperature sensor opening on the DPF. Leave stand for 30 minutes and then run the engine to clear out the residue. This should help to prevent the common DPF fault that others here have experienced, as well as preventing further clogging of the turbo veins.
I know there will be people here that will kill me for posting this and will insist that you always need to replace anything faulty with brand new parts, but these have all worked for me and have cost me less that 50 quid in total, so I know someone will be glad of it. It should also provide clarity on some of these faults, as I have seen a lot of incorrect information while searching for causes of these issues.
