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Ctdi problems starting after been sat for a while

silverVTEC

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I have had a problem with my 2.2 diesel over the past few days where she won’t start after been sat for a few hours the only way I can start the engine is by pumping the fuel pump a few times under the bonnet anyone know what’s the cause of this problem? I was thinking fuel filter as when I bought the car there was a new one in the boot but it’s the wrong one help appreciated. I need to sort this problem ASAP
 

antdad

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Sounds like fuel starvation so might as well start with the filter, go to your local motor factors or even eurocarparts. Plenty of threads here about that.
 

silverVTEC

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Thanks will go and get a new Bosch filter in the morning from euro parts by the looks of it the filter hasn’t been changed for a while
 

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Please don’t get one from your local motor factors or ECP.

You need to use a genuine Honda fuel filter sourced directly from Honda.

Give Holdcroft Honda a call and mention you were referred by the TA team.

Once you’ve done the filter, then look at the injectors. Run a leakback test to see if one has excessive leak back. Other thing it could be is the fuel pressure relief valve on the side of the rail (17mm nut)

If it’s not fuelling, then it could be a faulty glow plug or sticking egr valve.
 

silverVTEC

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Ok I will try and source one from Honda I read somewhere that Honda fuel filters are made by Bosch? That’s why I was going to get one of them from euro car parts, I will get the other things checked over it the car still plays up after fuel filter change, getting car booked in for a terra clean aswell
 

antdad

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Apologies if my advice was incorrect, this is my first Honda and besides being shocked by the price of OEM parts I have a general suspision of those that insist on using them or there isn't a good enough aftermarket equivalent. Having said that I'm more than happy to bow to Fahad's years of experience and know how on this matter because frankly he has it and I don't, atb.
 

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Completely understand where you're coming from and there are many alternative parts for many components on the Accord that are fine. The OEM fuel filter on the diesels however is an absolute must. This forum and others are littered with people who've had problems fitting non OEM alternative fuel filters on iCDTI. Trust us on this one, it's the only viable option if you don't want problems to persist/return.
 

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The parts that Bosch make and sell for Motor factors are not the same as the parts that they make for Honda.
Honda stuff is exhaustively tested and any parts that don't measure up are not boxed for Honda.
I remember reading about someone who had a job measuring parts for something small like a trim piece for Honda and if the part was not 100% correct out of the pile he had to reject it.
This was an insignificant part but it shows their level of quality control which is after all what matters.

Toyota Lambda sensors were another part that only OEM Toyota supplied parts would work without fail, you could buy a NTK sensor that looked exactly the same but it would quickly throw up lights where the genuine article would not.
Japanese manufacturers are generally very picky about parts and go to great lengths to make sure replacements function the same.
My guess is that the OEM's get the very cream of the crop when parts are produced and parts that don't measure up or don't flow correctly etc are packaged up and sent out to aftermarket suppliers that box and sell them.
 

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I'm sure Honda's quality control is second to none when it comes to parts but if it makes keeping a car on the road unsustainable then it begins to defeat the object, sure there are some poor reproductions but the answer should be that the aftermarket stuff should be of a better quality and if not as reliable more reliable. I for example have fitted a replacement steering rack and steering clock spring in the last month or so which if purchased from my local Honda dealership would have cost about £2K, about as much as the car is worth. I read on this forum about a member replacing the exhaust of a very similar car and age to my own with an OEM unit for...£1600 I think, sure the fit and finish is second to none but it's an exhaust on a 10+ year old car but I suspect he could have gone to specialist and had a custom one made in stainless for much less, his money his choice in the end but we should have better choices.
 

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I'm not really talking about big ticket items like exhausts which can be made pretty well for reasonable money, more the smaller things like Genuine fuel filters and air filters etc, the savings you make by buying spurious can often be outweighed by the labour of having to do the job again and this can be either your own or paid mechanics time.
If I can afford to buy the genuine parts I will do so, having learnt through painful experience that spurious stuff is of very variable quality.
The likes of Blueprint is an example, some of their stuff is good, very good and some stuff is terrible.

Things like driveshafts are another example Honda ones last a long long time and even though they are prohibitively expensive other spurious brands have been shown to work sometimes or else give problems from the outset.
What do you do in that case? buy a Genuine one and pay the mechanic to remove the spurious one and refit the new one?

I am no fan of Honda part prices but sometimes the little extra is worth it, you can also source parts from outside the EU at better prices I have bought Genuine Subaru parts from a place in the UAE that delivered very fast by courier and cost a fraction of Subaru prices here.

Genuine doesn't have to mean expensive if you shop wisely.
 

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This goes back to my point. Much of the time, you can fit 3rd party parts, blueprint parts etc, but like any car, there will be one or two areas where you really need to stay OEM. My car's a patchwork of blueprint and motorfactor parts, as well as some modified, upgraded things like stainless exhaust and coil overs. It's fine to run the Accord that way. I've got various blueprint bearings and sensors and bushes and drop links etc... Only time I've replaced with OEM are a couple of very specific electronic things like headlamp adjusters and clutch as at the time it was on a price match promotion.

Although I own a petrol and haven't experienced the fuel filter issue first hand, I can tell you without hesitation, having been on this forum for almost a decade and seen hundreds of posts the same, the iCDTI will simply not function right unless it has the OEM fuel filter. When other things go wrong with your car, use the cost effective means of repair, don't kid yourself into thinking that you've purchased a diva of car, you haven't. But in this one instance, I ***ure you, you're safest using the OEM part. If you don't, the symptoms will reoccur soon.
 

antdad

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Ok understood , OEM filter it is when the time comes.

Well Huan, I wouldn't consider the steering clock spring I replaced a big ticket item but Honda still wanted around £400 for it, found one for £25.

Just curious, what can possibly go wrong with a aftermarket driveshaft?
 

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Stevearcade

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Regards shafts...

There are lots of reports of them experiencing vibrations after a while at certain speeds. The drive shafts and the CV joints come combined as single units on the Accords and blueprint driveshafts have been known to develop play in the CV joints whereas OEM tend to hold steady in that regard.

It's corrosion and rust under the mid-shaft bushes (designed to balance weight and absorb vibration) that destroys the OEM shafts :lol: .

Note that many early 7th gens have had issues with their drive shafts in one form or another and therefore there are many documented cases of people replacing with mixes results. Some with blueprint parts and they've been fine ever since. Some with blueprints who continued to have issues and eventually replaced with OEM at extra cost. My Honda garage acknowledged to me that they knew the Accords were bad on drive shafts and the replacement OEM part now is better than what originally put in at the factory.

Furthermore, online you're likely to find more enthusiasts who do daft things like lower their car which places further stress on the shafts. I lowered mine and after running lowered for about 3 years snapped my original shaft clean in half (it was heavily corroded, there's a thread about it somewhere). I was skint at the time so replaced with a blueprint part that 18 months later had about an inch worth of play in it. Both an MOT failure and safety hazard. I upgraded to Insane Shafts designed to handle heavier loads and sportier applications. Been fine ever since.

Generally drive shafts are less black and white than the fuel filter issue. Depends on the nature of your car, your driving and partly the luck of the draw on what motorfactor part you replace with should you go blueprint. Many opt not to gamble and just go OEM. There are loads of the drive shaft threads on the forum, so plenty of reading, but nothing to worry about. If you're not experiencing steering wheel vibrations at 30 and/or 60, you're probably fine.
 

silverVTEC

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Thanks for everyone’s input much appreciated she having a new fuel filter fitted today as the problem is getting worse cars started hesitating / bucking every now and then when I put my foot down was doing it on the motorway so definitely seems like fuel filter to me as it looks like it hasn’t been changed for years!
 

silverVTEC

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Just getting the new filter on now the amount of black crap that was in it is unbelievable really black inside and it was an old cheapo unbranded filter hopefully she runs better now, booked her in for a terraclean aswell
 

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I changed my fuel filter once a year, its not an easy job but its critical in terms of these engines performing and being reliable.
Best of luck with it they are super motors when looked after, I had no issues with mine.
 

silverVTEC

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The car is running good again now since fuel filter change, no problems starting and starts quicker now and also has abit more power, the previous owner must not have changed it for a good few years. I’m happy with the car now, also only run her on premium diesel
 

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A quick tip for anyone that experiences the same issues, before replacing the filter, run down the fuel level in the tank as much as you dare close to home (or if you are courageous enough carry a small amount of diesel in a spare can and run dry, but expect to flatten the battery when trying to get the new fuel up to the injection pump).

It will save you getting premature junk from the tank if you happen to run low on the new filter, which can also occur if you drive off quickly after a refill at the station, which can stir up what sits at the bottom of the tank.
I found the silt could also be disturbed when I ran somewhat quicker than I would have liked over a road hump (that came out of nowhere).
 
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