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Difficult to change down through the gears

Dan Robinson

Grand High Plumber
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Location
Henlow, Beds
Car
06 EX Tourer i-CTDI
I began to notice a good while ago that changing down through the gears is getting harder.

It's not all the time, and it is not necessarily when driving hard.

The main problems are 3 to 2, and 5 to 4. Reverse and first can sometimes be an issue.

The transmission oil was done last year at HH, and the problem was apparent before. Changing the oil helped a little then; but today I had some very worrying episodes.

Please someone tell me it is something simple :(
 
Probably with the clutch 25k ago. I will search the forum/manual for the procedure... cheers bud, that would be s relief if it was that.
 
Clutching at straws here but its not going to be simple as gearboxs are pretty complex way too many bits in them. Could it be the linkage is worn or the selectors? Does it crunch at all if so that could be the synchro's, I take it she's had a clutch before now as well?

Hopefully someone who is a mechanic can shed some more light on it mate, but if its not play in the linkage then its prob time to save up for a box...... or upgrade to an 8th gen there's a few about for 11k now.
 
Selector rods were one of my concerns. When driving energetically I have crunched 3 and 4, but I thought it was me, and the box not really designed for rapid shifting.

It feels like your pushing against the gate of the box... or that the slot is simply not there.
 
Change clutch fluid first mate its a quick job but I'd say its something else.
 
Dan start with the clutch fluid mate, I think it was Waj who had a similar issue and he got it sorted by clutch fluid change.
If it aint that we can then investigate further right
 
Just checked with the missus and she has noticed it too - which thankfully rules out my driving style :lol:

The owners manual is delightfully vague abotu the change procedure.

Will have a more thorough search.
 
I just undid bleed nipple and let it gravity feed through till new fluid flowed into the bleeding kit container, needed someone to operate the peddle though once I had fresh fluid coming thru. Its the same as bleeding the brakes mate.
 
Would you not introduce air into the system when you pump the pedal, I though you had to syringe it out or something?

Dan definately Get it bled first, any change in pedal feel and where is the biting point.
 
Will get it changed ASAP - probably not worth my time on this one... I shall have a chat with my van's garage - half the price of Honda and happy to turn away work if they feel they're not up to it (like with the cloutch swap).

Clutch pedal feels the same as always - not any heavier, biting point seems OK. Have the dude's sports day tomorrow, so will test it properly.

Fingers crossed!!!!
 
Gulp..:(
 
Well, went to the garage this morning, and although the boss guy wasn't around one of the others had a look - the fluid levels are OK, and mentioned it could be the salve cylinder :(.

He recommended trying to double de-clutch to help eliminate the hydraulic side of things. But i am not hopeful.

My spidey senses are directing me to autotrader; but we'll see what we can do.
 
Dan
Doubt that its the gearbox as there are usually seperate syncro hubs, if these go its usually one gear only eg 2nd.

Sounds like clutch is not fully dis-engaging.
Is it possible to view the slave cylinder and see how much physical movement you have, ideally need to compare this against a car not experiencing the problem.
Hopefully this will help diagnose issue being hydraulic as I do not think we have any external clutch adjustment
 
Clutch fluid change is a half hour job really very easy to do. I hope its something simple like this, keep us posted.
 
Clutch fluid with air/moisture in it will cause this mate so change that first and use Honda fluid only.. and yes transmission fluid can also cause this.
 
Does anyone know where the drain plug is for the clutch fluid?

Would transmission fluid need doing after 10 months/25K miles?
 
If you look between the airbox and the engine, right above the gearbox (towards front of the engine) you'll see a small bleed nipple for the clutch fluid. If you want to do this yourself and have patience then loosen the nipple and let it drip and keep topping up the reservoir. Don't push the pedal or you'll get air into it...
 
Is this what you mean Faddy?

IMAG0030.jpg

IMAG0029.jpg
 
OK, so I presume you take the rubber cap off and undo the nut.

Then, either let it drip down through the engine bay, or put a piece of tube over the end and channel it down.

Then open the cap of the reservoir and gradually pour 250ml of fluid in as it comes out the bottom, ensuring the reservoir never empties fully..

When the last of the fluid is poured in, you tighten the bleed nut and put the reservoir cap back on.


According to my info, the Transmission fluid is supposed to be good for 75K or 8 years, so, bearing in mind it was done 25K miles ago at the HH meet, I think that should be OK.

I'll give either HH or Honda Letchworth a call tomorrow and see how much the fluid is... DOT 4 can't be that pricey can it? It has been a while :D
 
Can anyone confirm this for me? Got a couple of long journeys planned and want to get to the bottom of this if possible.

Cheers.
 
Well with a bit of help from CJ and faddy I got the fluid changed this afternoon. Like the fuel filter it is much easier than your first fears lead you to believe, and doing the right thin in the right order is vital. There were a few schoolboy erros on my part, but mainly because I was worried abouty goosing my gearbox.

Anyway... regardless of its effect on the downshift problem I have, it was well worth doing as the befroe and after shots of my clutch fluid show:

IMAG0043.jpg


The resevoir half way through:
IMAG0037.jpg


Sorry about the image quality - this new Desire is not a patch on my old HD2. What do you guys reckon to the state of that fluid? would you expect problems, or is it too hard to tell from pictures?


Anyway; this is definately a two man job; and I now need to source that little rubber cap for the bleed nipple. I need an oil filter and air filter soon (pending PC's new version) so I will give HH a call.

I took the dude for a test drive just now and the problem only happened once, and that was with a very aggressive 3rd to 2nd change at realtively high speed - so I am not really surprised. Got to pick the missus up from the station later so will give it another try. There is a noticeable difference in the clutch action, So hopefully we are on hte right track if it is not already fixed.

If it is the slave cylinder, then it is not the end of the world I suppose.

Fingers crossed...
 
Good write up buddy as shabz said is there any improvement in your gear changing.
 
I reckon you may have a duff slave cylinder bud , whilst speaking to over the phone after the flush the pedal wasn't building any progressiveness... which is worrying.


when you took the car for a spin how did it feel.
CJ if it is the slave cylinder, what sort of costs are involved in replacing this?
It does sound more like the clutch ***embly is fine and its the slave cylinder. However not sure what the cost is to replace this?
 
Just got back form the station run (5 miles or so with a few roundabouts and a bit of parking. I have a feeling there is still a problem that has been masked by the fluid change. It almost feels like there is a little hand guiding your gear change stroke off course.

I'll do a proper how to in another thread later when i have dealt with an underling having trouble with a boiler. :(.

The gear change is definitely improved,

CJ, when we were on the phone, I made the mistake of not closing the bleed nipple when lifting the pedal - so we were sucking in as much as I was pushing out (as the actress said to the bishop.

Lings has the cylinder in for £120+VAT - I ***ume it is one to two hours for the change.

Can selector rods be an issue on Accords? I had this with an old Fiat once. In our old Pug the gears were impossible to find as there was no sensation of the gate... A few plastic parts were needed and it cost next to nothing.

Life would never be that easy though ;).
 
B__2323.jpg


Are you talking about item 23? I can't find the image for the ***embly that connects to that rod.

I noticed that either on that ***embly, or the bit that attaches to it (can't remember now), there was a loose disc on the rod (looked as if it might have been a cap for a boot). I pushed it back into where I thought it located and there was a faint click. Can't see it doing any more than stopping crud getting in somewhere - but where and how vital?

Will go outside and take a piccy... And grab a cold beer on the way;).
 
Right - it looks like it is part of item 3 or 2 that is loose - a small plastic disc that is on the push rod, but clips into item 3.... The push rod seems to be firmly attached though

Sorry about the image quality:

IMAG0044.jpg

IMAG0046.jpg


You can just make it out under the bend of the pipe that goes into the top of the slave cylinder.


You gotta love that Lings site :lol:
 
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