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Headlight adjustment

C

chesjak

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south coast
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Accord I-ctdi
Hi Guys

Is it possible to adjust the headlights from left to right and if so where is the adjustor.

I think my left headlight is too far to the left and could provide a better light if it were adjusted a tad to the right.

Regards
 
[SIZE=14.4444446563721px]for reference, circuit diagram for motors and sensors is below[/SIZE]

each sensor is 3-wire +5/signal/gnd
each motor is 3-wire Vcc/signal/gnd (no idea if Vcc is +5 or +12)



SEA3E00000000000000EBAT00i009.jpg
 
[SIZE=14.4444446563721px]btw I'm not sure if you have [/SIZE][SIZE=14.4444446563721px]factory-fitted HIDs, [/SIZE]that circuit diagram is for the auto-levelling system, and you're after left-right adjustment, so may not be relevant :blush:
 
Hi guys,
Very interesting topic as I have a problem with my self leveling motors not working.
Mine is a 2005 EX with manual adjustment and I've been looking everywhere for a circuit diagram.
My fuse 20 is fine but there is no power on any of the yel/grn cables, either at the switch or on the motors.
As an aside they are actually yel/blue on mine. The blu/black is the same.
The earths are all fine to ground and there is continuity from the yel/blue at the switch to the same cables on the motors.
Just that there's no power anywhere with the ignition switch in any position or with the lights on. Only at the dash light cable.
I also checked for continuity from fuse 20 to the switch and there isn't any.
I have tried a new switch but no difference.
Any ideas most welcome.
Regards, Geoff
 
I take it that with the manual control there isn't a "Headlight Adjuster Control Unit" ?

If not, then the circuit and fuse could be quite different.

btw that circuit diagram is from the DVD for the 7th gen pre-facelift 2.4 Tourer

Jon (forum alias Jon_G) has a DVD for the 7th gen pre-facelift 2.2 Tourer, so if he looks on his DVD he might see the difference, but he won't know how to put the circuit diagram up ....will you Jon :lol:
 
btw, from your description, it still might not be fuse 20 then ("top-level" battery circuit in 2.2 might be different from 2.4)



quick question: obviously I've got the dreaded auto-levelling system on my car: I would have preferred the manual adjuster any time. In case I ever decide to do a conversion, I take it that there are 4 positions for the headlights, controlled by that switch in the right-hand diagram, and that there are trim resistors on the headlight motor drive circuits in each light ?
 
Could be, I'm going from the fuse listing at the top of the forums.
Having said that, I checked every 7.5A fuse in the fuse box.
The position selection switch on the dash, has 4 positions and resistors in the circuit. So it supplies different voltages to the motors.
What circuitry is in the motors that decode those voltages I have no idea.
From what I've gleaned the motors are the same on both systems.
If you have HID lights they should be auto leveling to meet MOT standards.
Have been trying for over a week to find my fault, although they have never worked since I bought the car 6 months ago, because both motors are inoperative I suspected wiring in the first instance.
Changed the selector switch, but have two replacement motors on order, which I will plug into the wiring sockets to try before I look at running a bypass live feed to the switch.
Wouldn't bother if it wasn't dark so early. LOL
Geoff
 
geoffdragon said:
What circuitry is in the motors that decode those voltages I have no idea.
Click to expand...
those drive circuits will be not a lot more than a power transistor with a pre-amp, the resistors on the switch will make the pre-amp alter the current through the power transistor.

why not try connecting from battery +ve direct to the yel/grn (or yel/blu in your case) feed to one of the motor drives (via a fuse just in case, and you'd have to remove the original yel/blu feed to be sure too). If that works then you need to trace the feed back into the loom, if it doesn't work then also try a couple of resistors from the blu/blk to ground (remove original blu-blk). If it still doesn't work then the drive circuit must be dead, and if one is dead, then the other on might be too. Unless the motors are both duff of course (test those for resistance maybe).
 
Thats the way I was thinking of proceeding.
I'll wait till the replacement motors come to check before I start cutting wires.
If I have to I'll find a switched feed and connect into the yel/grn at the control switch.
Did have a quick look at the loom to see if there are any plugs that could be loose and got very frightened at the sight behind the dash.
Fairly sure I found the fuse number from the owners handbook.
Can usually sort out electrical faults but this one's a bit baffling - working in the dark (pun) before I saw the circuit diagram.
Will come back when I'v tested with new motors.
Thanks, Geoff
 
geoffdragon said:
Can usually sort out electrical faults but this one's a bit baffling - working in the dark (pun) before I saw the circuit diagram.
Click to expand...
I guessed as much ;)

glad the circuit diagram is useful ....I really never even looked at the section on the right !!! :eek:
 
I've no idea why I've just thought of this, but there should be a simple way to check the manual level-change system.

1. Pull the plugs off the connectors on both of the lights, set the selector switch to position 3, and use a multi--meter on volts to check 2 and 3 below.

2. On one of the plugs check for +12V between any of the three terminals in the plug and ground (should be yel/grn wire or equivalent). Then check the other plug.

3. On one of the plugs check for +4V between any of the three terminals in the plug and ground (should be blu/blk wire or equivalent). Then check the other plug.

If no volts found on any terminal on both plugs, then the problem is in the +ve feed to the circuit (i.e. the fuse or somewhere).

If +4V is found but not +12V, then there is a fault in the loom somewhere.

If +12V is found but not +4V, then there is a fault at the selector switch.

Finally, if both +12V and +4V are found, then set the multi-meter to ohms and check the remaining terminal in the plugs for zero ohms to ground (should be blk).
 
Hi. Hope you didn't lie awake thinking of that one. I think that's the way I checked it out first but have done it again this morning. Tried all combinations with ignition on and lights on, but no joy. No volts anywhere. Earths fine. Pulled every 7.5a fuse on the car. Under dash and under bonnet but they are all ok. Fyi the handbook says fuse 30 in car is ig hac. I guess that's ignition headlight aim control. Looks like I have a broken feed wire somewhere and I will have to find a new one. Thought wiring problems had gone away when I gave up on French cars. Lol
Regards geoff
 
Ok. Just tried an external live feed, disconnected the motors, and put a jumper off the dash lights 12v on the switch to the yel/grn on the switch.
12v at the motor plugs on yel/gn and between 7v and 2v on the blu/blk cable depending on the switch setting.
I think that proves there is a failure in the power supply.
Don't want to risk trying the motors off the dash light supply and unless someone can come up with a definitive fuse number for the circuit,
I think I will run a new supply, probably off the front cigar lighter socket, with a 5A inline fuse before the adjuster switch.
If anyone has any other ideas for a supply that will be easier to access I'd be most grateful.
Regards, Geoff
 
geoffdragon said:
Hi. Hope you didn't lie awake thinking of that one.
Click to expand...
LOL, no I was dealing with an extremely high maintenance female (feline variety) when a vague outline of the circuit diagram flashed in my head with the thought of the way the wiring to the headlights is shown differently on the right hand side. That's when I saw that the selector voltages could be checked by looking into the plugs, and indeed that if they were present then the fuse must be intact. The testing logic evolved as I typed.


geoffdragon said:
Ok. Just tried an external live feed, disconnected the motors, and put a jumper off the dash lights 12v on the switch to the yel/grn on the switch.
12v at the motor plugs on yel/gn and between 7v and 2v on the blu/blk cable depending on the switch setting.
I think that proves there is a failure in the power supply.
Don't want to risk trying the motors off the dash light supply and unless someone can come up with a definitive fuse number for the circuit,
I think I will run a new supply, probably off the front cigar lighter socket, with a 5A inline fuse before the adjuster switch.
If anyone has any other ideas for a supply that will be easier to access I'd be most grateful.
Regards, Geoff
Click to expand...
I can think of someone else with a 7th gen 2.2, who has electrical/electronics knowledge, who could check what fuse 30 does in their car B)
 
Your wish is my command, Brian And it gives me a chance to demonstrate my cut & paste skills. From my Honda service manual, for a 2005 diesel (CN2 model)...



Fuse to Components Index - Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box(5D: N22A)


Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box

Fuse Number


Amps


Wire Color


Component(s) or Circuit(s) Protected


1


———


———


Not used


2


———


———


Not used


3


15A


RED/WHT


Daytime running lights relay


———


Multiplex integrated control unit (with daytime running lights)


4


20A


WHT/BLK


Front passenger's recline motor


5


20A


WHT/GRN


Audio amplifier


6


10A


WHT/BLU


Audio unit, Ceiling light, Courtesy lights, Trunk light, Vanity mirror lights


7


10A


WHT/RED


Alarm control siren, Combination light switch control unit, Gauge control module, Immobilizer control unit-receiver, Imoes unit, Navigation display unit, Navigation unit, Ultrasonic sensor


———


Multiplex integrated control unit


8


20A


———


Multiplex integrated control unit (+ BAT door lock)


9


15A


WHT/RED


Cigarette lighter


10


7.5A


WHT


SRS unit


11


30A


GRN


Windshield wiper motor


12


———


———


Not used


13


7.5A


RED/YEL


Multiplex integrated control unit (for rear fog light)


14


20A


WHT/BLU


Driver's power seat slide motor, Driver's power seat front up-down motor


15


20A


RED/BLK


Seat heater


16


20A


WHT/RED


Driver's power seat recline motor, Driver's power seat rear up-down motor


17


20A


WHT/GRN


Front passenger's power seat slide motor


18


15A


BLK/RED


Alternator, ABS or VSA modulator-control unit, ECM, Glow plug control module, Mass air flow sensor


19


15A


BLK/YEL


Immobilizer control unit-receiver, Imoes control unit


20


7.5A


YEL/GRN


Windshield washer motor, Sunroof open relay, Sunroof close relay, Rain sensor


21


7.5A


YEL


Back-up light, Combination switch control unit, Door multiplex control unit, Gauge control module, Relay control module


———


Multiplex integrated control unit


22


10A


WHT/RED


SRS unit


23


———


———


Not used


24


20A


YEL/RED


Left rear power window motor


25


20A


YEL/BLU


Right rear power window motor


26


20A


GRN/BLK


Front passenger's power window motor


27


20A


GRN/WHT


Driver's power window motor


28


20A


GRN


Sunroof motor


29


7.5A


YEL/BLU


Headlight adjuster unit (without HID), Headlight adjuster switch (without HID), Headlight adjuster control unit (with HID)


30


7.5A


BLK/YEL


A/C compressor clutch relay, Blower motor relay, Climate control unit, Condenser fan relay, ECM, Fan control relay, Power mirror actuator, Power mirror defogger, Radiator fan relay, Rear window defogger relay, Recirculation control motor, Seat heater relay, Magnet valve Optional connector


31


———


———


Not used


32


7.5A


YEL/RED


Accessory power socket relay, Audio unit, Audio amplifier, Navigation display unit, Navigation unit, Optional connector, Rear accessory power socket relay, Accessory power socket relay ('05 KE model)


———


Cigarette lighter relay


33


———


———


Not used
 
Hi freddo. No worries. Checked the live wires were not going to ground and run a new feed from the lighter socket. 5amp fuse inline and joints soldered and taped. Bit of a nightmare with the soldering iron in these temperatures but worked eventually. It's all working fine now. Both motors running nicely. Will have to call in mot station to get alignment checked. Had it done last Saturday as I'd given up trying to solve fault. Thanks very much for your input. Very welcome. By the way for the original poster, the left right adjustment is on a little cog on the inside ends off the headlights. You can see them easily and adjust with a screwdriver levering in the teeth. Thanks again. Geoff
 
geoffdragon said:
Hi freddo. No worries. Checked the live wires were not going to ground and run a new feed from the lighter socket. 5amp fuse inline and joints soldered and taped. Bit of a nightmare with the soldering iron in these temperatures but worked eventually. It's all working fine now. Both motors running nicely. Will have to call in mot station to get alignment checked. Had it done last Saturday as I'd given up trying to solve fault. Thanks very much for your input. Very welcome. By the way for the original poster, the left right adjustment is on a little cog on the inside ends off the headlights. You can see them easily and adjust with a screwdriver levering in the teeth. Thanks again. Geoff
Click to expand...
That sounds hard work in this weather.

It looks like you were probably typing your post when Jon inserted a fuse-list from the 2.2 service DVD (post #20).

From that, it looks like the fuse for the headlight adjusters in the 2.2 is fuse 29.
 
Oh well thats what I get for being impatient.
The fuse listing ( which is brilliant an which I'll copy and print out ) shows fuse 29.
Guess what, I havent got a fuse in position 29.
Think I'll leave it out now that I've powered from elsewhere, and forget about it.
Wonder why the fuse is missing ?
hey ho.
Best wishes, Geoff
 
geoffdragon said:
Wonder why the fuse is missing ?
Click to expand...
maybe a previous owner "cannibalised" it to replace another blown fuse, and never replaced it



geoffdragon said:
BTW, I've now got a spare switch and two motors that I'm going to test and then sell on.
Geoff
Click to expand...
if they were from a dealer you'll take a big hit when selling them on
 
No they are off fleabay. Could be a case of someone thought the fuse was more useful in another slot. Not de soldering now just to try. Have made a note on the service record so anyone in future won't be confused. Cheers, geoff
 
geoffdragon said:
No they are off fleabay. Could be a case of someone thought the fuse was more useful in another slot. Not de soldering now just to try. Have made a note on the service record so anyone in future won't be confused. Cheers, geoff
Click to expand...
If you bought buy-it-now less than 14 days ago, distance-selling rules apply and you can send them back (hopefully they "look" unused). If the seller used auction, then distance-selling rules don't apply.

Relief that you didn't pay dealer prices though :ph34r:
 
Yes that could be the way. My curiosity aroused, I just took my online fuse out and stuck a fuse in slot 29. It blew instantly. Put the inline fuse back in and no problems. There must be a fault somewhere on fuse 29's circuit.
Geoff
 
Ouch, at least you now know where the fault was. Strange that the inline fuse stays intact, it should route backwards into the same fault point in the loom. Either the wiring close to the fuse has rubbed against a ground and burnt through, or someone has búggered about with the wiring somewhere for some reason.

Aren't circuit-diagrams and fuse-lists magical :D
 
Absolutely. The fault must be isolated from the motor circuit, so I guess that is lucky.
Just struggling to get my Garmin satnav that the wife uses to talk to the computer, so I can update it.
Don't you just love electrical cable problems. Ha Ha.
Geoff
 
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