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How to diagnose and replace a faulty over pressure relief valve on a 2006 2.2 i-CTDi

Thanks Fahad.

All 2.2 i-CTDi engines have this valve on the drivers-side end of the fuel rail. If it becomes leaky then the fuel rail will struggle to reach enough pressure during cranking, which results in either a long cranking time during starting or even a complete failure to start (often worse when hot). This problem has been discovered quite a few times and a complete fix can easily be undertaken once the problem is confirmed.
 
Thanks for this. Very useful.

I've been looking at all posts related to poor starting and I think I saw one in which the Bosch part number for the over-pressure relief valve was mentioned.

Now I can't find it! Tried the search facility but no joy.

Does anyone have the part number (and a supplier)?
 
Found it on the civinfo site.

Listed as HONDA RENAULT COMMON-RAIL PRESSURE REDUCING VALVE BOSCH PART NUMBER F00R001166 on ebay.
 
Hi Chris,

There's quite a lot of info in the Civinfo link in the first post, above. Hopefully you can open it? I've just copied some info from that thread for you...

The valve is a Bosch part at ~£150. Note the fuel rail number eg xxx-RGB-xxxxx. A common number on the part found on the old and new valve was F166. On the part receipt it was called a "pressure limiting valve" p/n F00R001166. Use this information at your own risk.

And this supplier is also mentioned as one who was recently used...

Evelyn Hewing
31 Roundwood Road
Ipswich
Suffolk
IP44LU
United Kingdom

Phone:07703903751
Email:andyhewing@gmail.com

who can order the part for £102 plus £4 P&P plus VAT for a Bosch one, not a copy so will do that tomorrow morning.


Or google 'Bosch Service Centre' to find a distributor in your area... note that Honda do not sell this item on its own, but make you buy the entire fuel rail for over £1200!

Have you positively confirmed that your valve is leaking? Excessive injector leakback can also cause the exact same issue with long cranking problems, often worse when hot. I saw a recent thread where someone discovered that the rail over-pressure valve wasn't correctly seated on its o-ring, and the problem was solved after re-seating.
 
Thanks Jon,

Realised I was searching typeaccord not civinfo! Not too bright sometimes.

I only have a problem with cold starts. Hot is fine, engine runs normally (no smoke, no hesitation, normal power). Difficulty starting increases with time left standing so after 4 hours it can flatten the battery without starting. I will do leakback test (as described in civinfo) when I get the chance.
 
For completeness, here is the Civinfo thread where the valve wasn't seating and it was apparently the o-ring at fault... http://www.civinfo.com/forum/engines-transmission/112798-problems-starting-but-runs-fine-2-2-cdti.html


cpgaccord said:
Thanks Jon,

Realised I was searching typeaccord not civinfo! Not too bright sometimes.

I only have a problem with cold starts. Hot is fine, engine runs normally (no smoke, no hesitation, normal power). Difficulty starting increases with time left standing so after 4 hours it can flatten the battery without starting. I will do leakback test (as described in civinfo) when I get the chance.
Cold starting problems may not be this valve, but easy to check the valve outlet for leakage anyway!

Possibly the fuel is running back to the tank due to an air leak on the fuel line? This was reported recently on TA. Have you had a new fuel filter recently... maybe a pipe was refitted badly?

Or a below-par battery can sometimes crank over too slowly to achieve the necessary 200bar rail pressure.

Or a duff glow-plug relay? But this normally brings an an ECU error warning.

Is yours a pre-facelift or facelift model? There are minor differences to the fuel system, and those Civic part numbers may not be the same for an early Accord!
 
I suspected an air leak at first. I've looked at all the connections I can find and they all look OK. Not ruled it out though. I'm wondering if I can put a piece of clear tube in the fuel line just before the low pressure side of the pump to check for air bubbles. Can't think of another reliable way to check for suction leaks.

Fuel filter is quite new (Bosch, I changed it about 8K ago and starting was fine for 7.5K). I've got another on order just to be sure.

Glow system is fine. I tested each plug in turn and they all work the same.

Car is 2005 05 registration. Very end of the 05's so I think it's pre-facelift.

I'm ***uming that as long as the valve fits the thread on the rail that it will be OK.

If I find it is leaking I'm going to try just removing and refitting the valve, if I can get the thing out. Might be lucky!
 
Welcome. I still I fight with my problem p1065 and P0087. Perhaps, the loss of pressure at the fuel rail is caused by a broken valve. Today I did a test and I have one question. In the description of the check valve, someone wrote "Turn over the engine for about 10-15seconds" My engine start after 3 seconds. There was no fuel in the bottle, but ( this is the question) Is it normal that the fuel begins to flow from the metal tube?? This is return pipe than why flows the other way ??
 
If you suspect an air leak allowing fuel to drain back, pop the bonnet and give the priming bulb a few squeezes until it goes hard and then try starting. If it starts ok then you may have found your problem.
 
Yes, Jarek, some fuel will come back up the pipework. This is because the return pipework to the fuel tank is also used for the injector leak-back flows, which always means some fuel will be flowing along the return pipework and will take the path of least resistance.

It sounds as though your over-pressure valve is OK. Those DTCs suggest low fuel pressure when running, so I'd look at fuel filter first, then consider maybe if the fuel pump is worn. I think we discussed this before?
 
Guys thanks for quick respond, if valve is ok and two weeks ago I changed fuel filter (OEM Denso) what else I have to check ?? I remind you, when I drive and rpm 2200 (exactly on this rpm on 3th 4th 5th gear, engine starts breaks) after 2200 is perfect till 3200rpm. Then totally I can feel no power and engine turns off with two faults p1065 and p0087.
 
"Starts breaks" means jerks, interrupts. Like it doesn't get enough fuel.
 
Dave G said:
If you suspect an air leak allowing fuel to drain back, pop the bonnet and give the priming bulb a few squeezes until it goes hard and then try starting. If it starts ok then you may have found your problem.
Yes I've done that. I got the AA to come out (just in case the guy had come across the same thing before) and when he repeatedly squeezed the priming bulb whilst I cranked the engine it started after about 10-12 seconds. What puzzles me is that I can't see anything wrong with any of the connections. This morning I put vaseline over the ends of all the connections I could see which should seal any small leaks, at least temporarily, and it made no difference. I still think the symptoms point to an air leak - JUST CAN'T FIND ONE! That's why I thought I'd try the clear tube trick - if I see bubbles at least I know there IS a leak somewhere.

Even though the fuel filter is quite new I think I'll change that first, at least it eliminates one possibility. New one arrived today - now have to wait for the rain to stop!

Another strange thing is that other than the cold starting issue there are no other problems. If there were enough of a leak-back problem (either valve or injectors) to cause the starting issue I would expect problems at high load or maybe rough idle - but the engine runs really well. Similarly if the pump were on it's last legs I'd expect something to show up while driving.

Also I haven't had any engine lights or glow plug lights so I don't think the ecu has seen any faults.

Really frustrating.
 
It is usual for i-CTDi cars with starting problems due to excessive injector leak-back or the rail valve leaking to run perfectly OK... the fuel pump has surplus capacity (maybe if you were really hammering it uphill with a full load you'd notice lost performance?)
 
Back again,

I did a leak-back test today - no problem with the over-pressure relief valve but two injectors are returning far too much fuel.

Does anybody have any advice about removing injectors? I know this can be difficult but I'd be willing to give it a go if I hear from anyone who's been successful.

Thanks
 
Well done for finding the likely problem.

Member GAZB has replaced injectors recently (and also overcame a few problems along the way). Search for his recent thread (last week or so) or PM him.
 
Hello guy i v got honda accord ictdi face lift model 2008 7th generation i got starting problem some time car start normal and most of time struggle a lot no EML light on nothing if i switch ofc engine and start after around 30 minutes stuggle a lot changed genuine fuel filter oil filter put fresh oil no luck pls pls help me out thanks
 
Just to reboot this thread.

Had the fuel filter problem about 6 months ago, cured and the car ran well for the intervening, no problems starting, then on the French motorways this month I suffered the EML come on when full power was used in top 2 gears, with limp mode engaging.

Diagnostic gave P1065, no other codes. The car would start easily except the first time after it had been stopped when the EML had come on and we were in limp mode.

Walked though the linked Civic infotest with some telephone help from local fuel injection specialists.

Gave them the common rail part number as a check. They said this fault is now very common and they keep the part in stock. Collected the part and fitted it.

The biggest problem is getting the 17mm bolt undone.

If you are in West Kent their contact details may be helpful:

http://www.kentinjection.co.uk/

Part was roughly £108 + VAT. Installed and running, checked, no problem so original fault code cleared.

Car is an early 2008 reg.
 
I had a look at doing this yesterday as my PRV arrived.
I don't have space to remove the old one, and ideally I want to get a socket/impact on the end of it as the old one looks like someone had a go already (and failed).

I've circled the things I think I need to undo, and of course disconnect any clips, does that seem about right ?
Honda-FPRV-01.jpg
 
In the Civic writeup (within first post), the releive valve is the only bolt that is undone.

I would recommend using the best six point socket you can find in your toolbox (buy one if needed), and a long piece of scaffold pole on the end of a 3/8 wrecking bar. Do not use a ratchet.
 
In the Civic writeup (within first post), the releive valve is the only bolt that is undone.

I would recommend using the best six point socket you can find in your toolbox (buy one if needed), and a long piece of scaffold pole on the end of a 3/8 wrecking bar. Do not use a ratchet.

My car is an Accord, you can see the steering pump is in the way, it's not exactly the same unfortunately or I would have done it.
 
Ah, it's been a long time since I looked closely under the bonnet.

You might be better off loosening off the steeing pump, or buying a long six point ring spanner (Britool CEHM17 or similar).
 
Ah, it's been a long time since I looked closely under the bonnet.

You might be better off loosening off the steeing pump, or buying a long six point ring spanner (Britool CEHM17 or similar).

Not worried about tools ;)
20210107-155311.jpg



But I 100% need to take it off to get the Milwaukee M18 impact on it, the spanner wrench isn't going to work (I can see/feel it wont).
Also as I mentioned, the new valve is longer than the gap, so I doubt it'll come out/go in. Happy to remove the pump but I fear it'll just be a bigger mess than diesel from the looks of it.

Just trying to get a plan of attack so I can do it before work.
 
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