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I-Dtec Clutch Won't Spring Back UP Occasionally

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Charis007

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Location
London
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Vaxual Corsa
I just got a 2009 8 Gen Honda Accord i-dtec Ex which has done 106000 miles @ £5k from an independent dealer, the car was a dream car to drive, after two days, I started noticing a couple of faults which I did not see before buying the car. 1st the driver side speaker is blown, both cigarette chargers are not working, a small crack on the widescreen. All these I can fix without breaking the bank. but the major problem is I was at the traffic light and wanted to pull away and the clutch pedals won't come back up. I had to use my hands to pull it back up. I thought is was a one off, but it has happened almost 5 times in a week. The clutch does not slip and seems to work fine until it stays down and won't come up especially at traffic stops when I have to press it down for a while when 1 gear is engaged.

I called the dealer he said it may be because the car was not driven for about 4 months and there could be some rust at the pedal spring or maybe the it needs bleeding. I am a bit worried that it may be the entire clutch system that needs replacing and I am sure it can cost up to £1k to replace the entire clutch system. The car has mechanical warranty for 6 months. The dealer as me to bring it back so he can have his mechanic check it out. If it happens the entire clutch system needs changing, I would prefer that being done at Honda as I have read that most garage can't really fix it right. I will take it to the dealer tomorrow and see what he says after all as I do not expect to pay for a new clutch after paying £5k cash on a Honda Accord. What are your thoughts?
 
Have you got loose mats fitted? the lighter sockets are fused I blew it when pumping up my bike tyres, although doing the car all is good?
 
Steady on!

A drop of oil in the pedal box might be all that's required!

Don't start worrying about big bills until the simple stuff has been explored and ruled out. Your warranty may or may not exclude clutch wear, but in any case I'd fight for a free fix if it's a genuine fault ***ociated with the clutch.

On your speaker issue, you might find this handy...

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/22654-removing-front-door-card/
 
Hi
the return spring on the clutch pedal locates in two plastic bushes which can be got at and some grease applied, which may help.
 
An update on the clutch issue, So I took the car back to the dealer and I received a call from him today that the slave cylinder of the clutch is bad and needs replacing. I have read that if you change the slave, you also have to change the master. Does anyone have any experience with this? I am trying to avoid making frequent trips to and fro the dealer as he is about 70 mins away from me.
 
edgeoftime said:
Have you got loose mats fitted? the lighter sockets are fused I blew it when pumping up my bike tyres, although doing the car all is good?
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info, I have no mats fitted and the dealer has confirmed its the slave cylinder that needs replacing. Would you know where I can find the fuse for the cigarette lighter in the car? is it located at the fuse box in the engine or do I have to rip off the cigarette lighter compartment. Can I get these to buy at Halfords?
 
Matt said:
Steady on!

A drop of oil in the pedal box might be all that's required!

Don't start worrying about big bills until the simple stuff has been explored and ruled out. Your warranty may or may not exclude clutch wear, but in any case I'd fight for a free fix if it's a genuine fault ***ociated with the clutch.

On your speaker issue, you might find this handy...

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/22654-removing-front-door-card/
Click to expand...
The dealer said its a faulty slave cylinder which he is happy to replace. Can the speaker be fixed or do I need to buy a new one and replace the old one?
 
Try the dealer for all faults first, otherwise you will need to buy some new ones-plenty of info on here about replacement and which to buy.
 
Hi there in regards to clutch being stuck could be a number of these;
  • cracked or warped clutch pedal (common problem)
  • faulty master cylinder (common problem)
  • contminated clutch fluid
  • faulty slave cylinder
 
You don't need to replace the master cylinder if it's not faulty.

Basic checks in addition to advice already given, would be check the reservoir is not low, check slave for leaks (sometimes need to pry the boot back), bleed the clutch.

Was it main dealer purchase?
 
Hello everyone and thanks for all your comments so far. I thought it will be useful to post an update here on the clutch issue.
After the dealer change the slave cylinder, it was ok, I drove for 70 miles on the motor way with little traffic and no issue. The next day, I drove to the city center and it happened once.
Called the dealer who offered to send someone to come collect the car, that person drove for 70 miles on heavy traffic without an issue. But the kind dealer decided to strip the entire clutch system where they found out it has rusty plates. He decided to change the entire clutch system. When I picked up the car, it was like I was driving something different with the new clutch installed. But I noticed something else which might not be an issue. Is it normal for the rev counter to be at 1000 when the car is stationary? I thought it has to be at 0? I was thinking maybe during the cause of changing the clutch, some settings where not properly adjusted.. what are you thoughts guys?
 
The rev counter should be around 750 not 0 this is the value decided to keep ticking over and move off. With heaters and lights on will be around 1000 rpm

Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk
 
honda_saj said:
The rev counter should be around 750 not 0 this is the value decided to keep ticking over and move off. With heaters and lights on will be around 1000 rpm

Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Thanks Saj, you completely answered my question.
 
Charis007 said:
Hello everyone and thanks for all your comments so far. I thought it will be useful to post an update here on the clutch issue.
After the dealer change the slave cylinder, it was ok, I drove for 70 miles on the motor way with little traffic and no issue. The next day, I drove to the city center and it happened once.
Called the dealer who offered to send someone to come collect the car, that person drove for 70 miles on heavy traffic without an issue. But the kind dealer decided to strip the entire clutch system where they found out it has rusty plates. He decided to change the entire clutch system. When I picked up the car, it was like I was driving something different with the new clutch installed. But I noticed something else which might not be an issue. Is it normal for the rev counter to be at 1000 when the car is stationary? I thought it has to be at 0? I was thinking maybe during the cause of changing the clutch, some settings where not properly adjusted.. what are you thoughts guys?
Click to expand...
Hi, What or where are the rusty plates?

Reason i ask is, i notice my accord to have done the same thing, clutch pedal not go up fully. In about 6 months this has happened about twice, on both occasions i had the clutch pressed for an extended period of time while waiting in traffic.

When this occurs, the biting point of the clutch changes, total travel to where the pedal sticks is about two inches, so the clutch bites nearly immediately once i start to let the pedal up. What does this point towards, could it be clutch fluid related?


In general, i find the clutch to bite higher in the 8th generation accord than say for example the 7th generation accord. Is this typical, i have compared another 8th gen i know of, and this is the same. This is something i have got used to, and pass no heed of, however when i drive the 7th gen accord, it is the first thing i notice, a much "more normal" clutch operation, if that makes sense. Bites lower.

In older clutch systems, the higher the biting point the more worn the clutch plate is, but my understanding of the accord, is that the clutch adjusts itself to maintain the same biting point? Am i correct? Based upon this, and the fact that i haven't had the clutch slip, im of the ***umption my clutch disc, and pressure plate are ok?
 
I have not heard of rusty clutch plates I'm a little suspect about what dealers say sometimes I could stand corrected. As said before water gets into clutch fluid and therefore a flush fixes most issues if not then check master cylinder, cracked clutch pedal, slave cylinder and piping. It's correct that hydraulic clutch adjusts itself unlike old clutch systems, I replaced my clutch pedal which was cracked and new master cylinder with new fluid used vacuum pump to bleed and the car has been good, better than the day I purchased her.

Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk
 
Example of rusty clutch housing



Symptoms were very different on this one though.
 
Thanks salim as said different symptoms I don't trust dealers personally and like to have my work done in front of me. I had dealers do a service once and forgot to put engine oil back in after a drain.

Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk
 
honda_saj said:
I have not heard of rusty clutch plates I'm a little suspect about what dealers say sometimes I could stand corrected. As said before water gets into clutch fluid and therefore a flush fixes most issues if not then check master cylinder, cracked clutch pedal, slave cylinder and piping. It's correct that hydraulic clutch adjusts itself unlike old clutch systems, I replaced my clutch pedal which was cracked and new master cylinder with new fluid used vacuum pump to bleed and the car has been good, better than the day I purchased her.

Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Maybe im too fussy, but i wouldnt be inclined to let anyone, other than my self service the car.

The fluid in mine, looks very black/dirty, so i will replace it. Would there be a diy guide here regarding this
 
Not that I have seen very easy to do open slave cylinder nipple I removed two bolts holding slave cylinder then connected vacuum pump and kept topping up master cylinder until fresh fluid in container then to bleed slave cylinder push in piston and bleed then first close slave cylinder bleed valve refit bolts then close master cylinder cap, top up if necessary during bleed make sure there was air in pipes.
MAKE SURE RESERVOIR IS NOT EMPTY IF YOU WILL HAVE TO BLEED UNTIL AIR IS REMOVED
Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk
 
Thanks everyone for the comment. Well I did not see the replaced clutch, I just noticed it felt different after the dealer told me he had it replaced, I also saw the mechanic that replaced it. It has been all good so far.
I drove the car to Germany for the Christmas holiday, over 1000 miles round trip without any issues. My only observation was that the odometer was reading 300k revs at 100mph and I felt the engine was struggling to keep up and thus did not feel safe keeping a constant speed of 100 mph. Maybe it is just my imagination, but when I had my A6, I could do what ever speed I wanted and still felt I was in control or rather no fear I am going to get my engine blown out. Maybe I need do some engine remap/tuning. At 80 mph its all good, anything about this, was a struggle.
 
Thanks for information Charis007 I am facing simillar issues , I changed clutch master cylinder and car still have issue with pedal , mechanic told me that I need new clutch and flywheel , yesterday day before I supouse to drop car to mechanic clutch failed.
 
I have a 2010 Accord since 2014. Clutch pedal occasionally sticks down. Master cylinder replaced which made no difference. A clutch expert said it wasn't the Clutch or DMF as nothing was slipping. He adjusted the pedal position which helped the problem but it has not gone away. From this forum this is a problem with Accords but there does not seem to be a clear solution. Does anyone have any updates?
 
I am in the same boat, got my accord dtec since 1st of january 2020. Shortly after I got it it developed sticky pedal, however I found out that only when I hold the pedal pressed for a longer period of time. Replaced clutch master cylinder, no change. Occasionally when I floor it the clutch slips but only in high revs, this happenes only in winter by the looks of it. Since I got the car, I have made 15k miles and when I am not keeping the pedal pressed for a longer period of time, 5-6 seconds, all works fine. I have also changed the gearbox oil however no change.

Would also like to find out how to sort this issue.
 
This is exactly the same problem and symptoms. Mine has 120k miles. I have had it since 90k. It has a towbar from previous owner but I have no idea what loads it was towing. My current thoughts are that the Clutch gets harder to depress with age and this causes something in the clutch pedal mechanics to stick. My slave cylinder was not replaced but was deemed in good condition. From this thread even if the clutch isn't slipping, replacing the whole lot solves the problem......but that is min £1k! Was your Slave cylinder replaced at the same time as the master cylinder?
 
Sorry you probably missread, both of us replaced the master only. :)
 
OK! How many miles has yours done? Not sure what my plan is now. Adjusting the pedal height with the nut on the end of the slave cylinder piston, down in the footwell, did change the dynamic of the problem. The clutch pedal ended up higher but when the pedal sticks it is now lower and harder to flick back up with my toe. The guy that did the adjustment had made the pedal stick down and thought the problem was with the clutch pedal position and being in the same position for the life of the car,
 
I'm getting the same issue on my Accord.

There is a steep bank i have to go up in 1st and I'm on the clutch for around 2 minutes to get up.

After the hill climb, it seems when the car is on a bank, I cannot get the gear out of first. I have to drive to a flat bit and just about get the gear back in neutral.

The gear and clutch being stuck seems to be when I've been on the clutch for a long time.
 
I'm having the very same issue here with my 2011 Accord, did anybody resolve this issue or is it just a clutch replacement?
 
Hi all, have been off grid for a while due to illness.
I have a 2007 Accord EX Tourer i-CTDi 2.2 (in Milano Pink if anyone is interested!) with the same issues which is disappointing to hear it's on the later model.
the car has 140k on the clock but had a new clutch fitted at 110k.
Before my illness (6 years ago) I had a couple of issues where the clutch pedal sank to the floor so had the entire system flushed and fitted new Clutch Master Cylinder and Slave Cylinder. This didn't fix anything sadly!!
Now it's very possible to be the Clutch Pedal Housing as it's a recorded weak point.
Now that I have started using the car again, the clutch pedal is much worse and have a very stiff pedal as its about to fail.

Any thoughts. Car is no longer worth spending a fortune on it due to its pink paint job. Car is superb otherwise!!
 
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