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K24Z3 Interminnent metallic knocking/pinging noise

Trawa

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Location
Sheffield
Car
CU2 Modulo 6MT
Noise randomly appeared after taking the valve cover off to replace the VTC spring and check valve clearances. Nothing has been dropped into the engine, runs perfectly fine and and shows no codes.
It's interminnent, seems to come and go on it's own regardless of engine temperature. Frequency raises with RPMs, persists even when when ran without accessory belt. Chain and guides aren't worn, haven't checked the tensioner yet. Seems to be coming from driver's side behind the engine. There's slight scoring on one of the exhaust lobes but using the old screwdriver trick showed it's not coming from the valvetrain as I could only hear the usual cam/valve noise.

 
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Did you get the noise worked out? I'm now in the same position; replaced the VTC spring on August 26th, 3 days later started getting the exact same noise. Also like you I took the serp belt off and it's still there with the engine running. It's louder when the engine is cold, rises when increasing rpm, becomes inaudible after about 2500+ rpm as it's drowned out by the engine. In my case though it's all the time, not intermittent.

I used the longer and stiffer spring from the Spring Start kit, but I'm thinking about replacing it with the OEM style one to see if that stops the noise. Could then also check the tensioner arm is within the 5.5mm clearance as below.

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In my case it ended up being the timing chain stretching and slapping against the chain cover/guide. New chain sorted it out.

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Balls. Not the answer I was hoping for but one I anticipated. Did you replace the guides and tensioner at the same time? Anything else to note?
 
Guides, chain and tensioner all at once.

It's a pig of a job due to access but fairly straightforward, worth noting is the bolt next to the VTC solenoid - very well hidden and coolant line bracket bolt is the same so it's really easy to miss it.
VTC solenoid can crack upon removal if it's really stuck in the head, may be worth ordering a replacement beforehand, they're not super expensive.
Coolant line for the oil cooler needs disconnecting from the water pump housing and it'll **** coolant all over the place so a pan, cork and a gallon jug of fresh coolant will be needed.

Putting the chain on is definitely 2 person job as you need to get the timing right and then release the tensioner while also turning the crank to remove any slack on the intake side.
Guides need to be installed in a specific order or you won't be able to get the chain on the sprockets - iirc tensioner guide, front guide, top guide.
Get yourself two 5mm (or 5.5mm, don't remember) drill bits to lock the cams in place, much cheaper than the special tool.

If you're located somewhere near top end of the Midlands (Notts/Derby area) I'll be happy to help if you want to DIY it.
 
That’s real kind of you and I’m just a couple of miles out from Newark. I’m all for getting stuck in with these types of jobs, but the problem I’ve got is finding the time, especially as it’s our only car.

As it’s quick to do I’ll get the valve cover off again to swap in the OEM style spring from the kit and check the clearance between the chain and the arm. I’ll check the tensioner as well as that seems fairly straight forward, but if the chain is stretched I think I’ll probably have to get it replaced by one of the specialists.
 
Newark isn't that far from me so if you want to save a few quid just shoot me a message.
It's a days job if you've done it once, took me about 16 hours in total first time around going slow and steady with no prior knowledge and only service manual. Really not worth paying £400 in labour.
Don't swap the tensioner because it's nigh impossible to get the timing right without taking the front cover off, I made that mistake and ended up with timing 3 teeth out and the car stuck on my drive for a week.

FWIW I drove around with that noise for 6 months and nothing happened so get parts ordered from amayama and just do it yourself for £200 instead of £900.
 
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