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P2004 - IMRC Intake Manifold Runner Control problems

waj1974

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Hi guys,

Was driving today and the engine light came on, checked it with a code reader and it come up with p2004 dtc.
Does anyone know what it means and how to fix it?
 

J4JAV

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INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER CONTROL STUCK OPEN

that's the problem....
 

waj1974

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Cheers jav does that mean that its the swirl flap that's stuck and I need to open and clean it or is it a sensor problem?
 

joooe

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Had exactly the same problem for a few months.
I did managed to clean the flap and the intake, but the error didn't go away. Checked all the hoses of the [font="Arial][size="2"]frequency solenoid valve (part nr 9 in the picture below), disconnected them all, cleaned all the electrical connections. Nothing. The error was still there.[/size][/font]
[font="Arial][size="3"]
[/size][/font]
[font="Arial][size="3"]

[/size][/font]
[font="Arial][size="3"]
[/size][/font][font="Arial][size="2"]The car was running just fined, so I didn't bother for a while. When I cleaned the error the light always came on when the car was at normal operating temperature.[/size][/font]
[font="Arial][size="2"]I finally ended up buying a new [/size][/font][font="Arial][size="2"]frequency solenoid valve, but that didn't worked either. Either way I left the new valve in the car [/size][/font]
[font="Arial] [/font]
[font="Arial][size="2"]Then, one day the light went off by itself.[/size][/font]
[font="Arial] [/font][font="Arial][size="2"]Coincidence or not I had changed the fuel brand two days earlier. [/size][/font]
[font="Arial][size="2"]Still didn't know what happened. There's now more than 5 months and the light never came back. [/size][/font]

[font="Arial] [/font]
[font="Arial][size="2"]If possible clean the intake and see if the flap moves freely. Check the solenoid valve, clean it and check the vacuum hoses. I remember I even cleaned the EGR.[/size][/font]
[font="Arial] [/font]
[font="Arial][size="1"]Good luck.[/size][/font]
 

beefy_634

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intermittant vac leak in the imrc frquency solenoid valve. the manufacturing process was changed to rectify the problem, as it is intermitant the fault may clear and not return for some time. replacing the valve should cure the fault.
 

waj1974

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Adam and nuno thanks for your advice and yes the light is intermittant. Could that also cause hesitancy if it has a vac leak?i will clean the swirl flap also
 

waj1974

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Ok so I cleaned out the swirl flap and the light went out but aftera bit of driving came back on and it was hesitating too so I unplugged the sensor clip light was still on but no hesitation car was smooth so I know now its definitely faulty
 

F6HAD

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Waj can you take some snaps of these parts that you are cleaning etc - this will make an interesting DIY..
 

waj1974

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Fahad the cleaning of the throttle body and imrc has already been covered I think by danger mouse or gathor with photos topic was egr cleaning but my problem was the frequency solenoid valve maybe other people with hesitation problems should get that checked out too
 

CJM

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Ok so I cleaned out the swirl flap and the light went out but aftera bit of driving came back on and it was hesitating too so I unplugged the sensor clip light was still on but no hesitation car was smooth so I know now its definitely faulty

Waj,


Just to clarify you un-plugged the sensor clip from the Frequency solenoid valve and the hesitation went away. How was the car from a cold start.

Adam mentioned that there was an intermittent vac leak fault with the frequency solenoid valve and a vacuum leak I suspect will cause the problems suffered by a few people, especially with face-lifts described as jerking.

You had a friend with this problem and were looking at the EGR, have you tried disconnecting the sensor clip on your mates car yet ? This could be the very exciting news that many people have been waiting for !! Fingers crossed :lol:
 

waj1974

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yes mate, i tried both from cold and hot and the car runs way better and smoother with the sensor on the frequency valve unclipped. I tried my friends car also but he still has the hesitation.

I think i will email nick aka nesh cuz he was having the jerking problem maybe he has the same problem, anyway i have ordered a brand new valve from Honda for £116 inc vat. and will be picking it up tomorrow morning so i will keep this thread updated....
 

F6HAD

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Waj, please do a fitting DIY with pics B)
 

F6HAD

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I'll ban him :ph34r:
 

waj1974

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Sal my brother long time where you been??? Give me a call sometime we can catchup right I'm off to get the valve fingers crossed it works.
 

kingnesh

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Following on from the interesting posts above I have a little dilema. (CJ you maybe the man to advise, but anyone feel free) I am having my car plugged in at the HH meet to see if it shows up any faults. Now obviously if I disconnect this part it will throw up a fault code straight away, which will then be picked up at HH and then may make it more difficult to determine the fault... not sure

I will definitely have one fault show up as I bought a replacement MAF and it wasnt connected/i forgot to connect it when started it so this will obviously throw up a fault. However I have two MAF now, neither of which I believe are faulty.

Finally when you disconnect this device and the MIL comes on, will the car not just go into limp home mode??? Because when my car was in that mode (when MAF wasnt connected) it didnt show any symptoms of jerkiness, but then again it didnt have any power and I dont think the turbo spools as the car obviously goes into a safe mode with default settings.

Any thoughts comments appreciated.. Should I try or wait till HH????
 

F6HAD

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Well, if you try it and it doesn't jerk then fault code or no fault code, you'll know it's this part :ph34r:

If it still exhibits the problem, then you can ignore the fault code coz you know it's not that...

So I'm not sure i understand the problem actually?
 

CJM

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Well tried this this morning and the car is running fine and that is without cleaning the Swirl or EGR.

Really easy to do, but I'm sure Waj is going to take care of the DIY on this.

I think a few rep points on this as it is sure to help many other members and save many Accords being part exchanged!!

Personally the problem was just showing itself and slowly getting worse and starting to drive me mad, I was going to get it put back to stock and diagnostics.

Question is whether you replace the filter as well as the solenoid ?

So it certainly is one possible candidate for the jerking issues, after replacing fuel filters first though ! It will be interesting how many people find this works for

Thanks to everyone involved
 

F6HAD

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Excellent!!!

I've also just had confirmation from Waj that his problem is fixed by replacing the part. He will post pics up soon :)

Time to make this a sticky me thinks :ph34r:
 

kingnesh

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Well, if you try it and it doesn't jerk then fault code or no fault code, you'll know it's this part :)If it still exhibits the problem, then you can ignore the fault code coz you know it's not that...So I'm not sure i understand the problem actually?
Alright clever cloggs.... :) The only reason I said is because when the MAF was disconnected it didnt show symptoms! so it may not show them when any other device is disconnected as it will prob go into a safe mode when the MIL light is on.

I might just give it a go anyway but before ordering anything, get the HH diagnostics on there as well. Oh and see if the part Waj ordered has sorted his out!

Cheers Guys

Oh and Cheers Carl for the PM its much appreciated and any pics would be great :ph34r:
 

kingnesh

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Excellent!!!

I've also just had confirmation from Waj that his problem is fixed by replacing the part. He will post pics up soon :)

Time to make this a sticky me thinks :ph34r:
Ohh Im excited now :D :D :D :D
 

F6HAD

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:ph34r: back at ya clever clogs :)

But this is really big news actually as it gives you guys seeing this problem a solution now :D
 

kingnesh

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I know Fab news... disconnecting mine before I leave work.... if I am disconnecting the right part that is. Carl has given me a fair description as well as the stuff Waj has put. This could be the best news yet!

Glad its a sticky, cheers Fahad and well done Waj... if it sorts mine that is :)

Wonder if it will sort my smoking issue!!! :ph34r:
 

F6HAD

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Well if it's affecting any of the air/fuel ratios (I'm not sure what this part does) then there's a good chance it wil help for sure.
 

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I am watching this thread with much interest! I still have a slight jerk on very slight acceleration although it is much better (or appears to be) after putting some bg244 in it. Although mine only does it when warm or very nearly at full operating temperature. :ph34r:
 

nodrogs

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This is a very positive result. Is it a common part for both pre and post facelift models?
 

F6HAD

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Must be because disconnecting it has worked for Waj (pre facelift) and Carl (facelift) :ph34r:

It's always the little things isn't it.
 

waj1974

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Right guys, the news you all been waiting for. The Frequency Valve WORKS... :ph34r: no jerkiness, no hesitation and above all my car now pulls like it never did before lol anyways guys as promised here are the photos of the fitting etc... I hope it solves many a peoples problems and please please please before buying the EGR like i was make sure it is the part thats faulty as its very expensive and Honda wont take it back.

I would also like to say please do not blame the hesitation or jerkiness on the Elite remap as that only highlights the problem which in theory means the part was on its way out anyway. Fahad has done a brilliant job on the remaps and would like him to thank for his great work for all us members with remaps :D

Ok heres the Frequecny Solenoid Valve which i bought from Honda. £116 inc VAT.



And here it is in its full glory


The valve attached to the top of the intake manifold i believe



Ok so you unclip the sensor, slide off the vacuum pipes and with a 10mm socket undo the nut and off comes the valve.
Fitting is the reversal of removal.



I knew straight away when i took it for a drive that it had cured the problem. Ok for other members, this problem was never highlighted for a long time and i wondered for months is it the egr valve, engine cylinder misfire, fuel filter which i changed religiously many a time lol air filter etc etc

I only found out when the MIL came on with the code, and a little help from members pointed to the valve. Guys you can all try taking the clip sensor off the valve and if it drives better than you know for DEFINITE that its the problem.Your car will not go into limp mode but will drive better than before. Bear in mind that once you take off the valve sensor clip you dash will throw on CEL, which you need to clear using an OBD2 reader or equivalent.

I hope this helps some members out there as i know how frustrating this jerkiness issue is, and if you have found it helpful please dont forget to send me a rep point :)
 

F6HAD

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To think this part was the cause all along :ph34r:

Waj - thank you very very much for being the first to fix it. I also agree, this is the likely culprit for quite a few of the hesitation problems the guys have been experiencing and will hopefully now put an end to the endless speculation.

Good work bud :)
 
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