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Power loss under acceleration 7th gen 2.2ctdi

Sichedelic

Sichedelic

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Location
South london
Car
Accord 2.2ctdi
Hello everyone. I am new hear and would very much appreciate your help.
I have an 04 2.2 ctdi tourer with 145000 miles.
It has a fault with acceleration at motor way speeds.
Really noticeable in 5th 80 85 mph it feels like it is about to stop.
Major dead spot which is repeatable but not always the same worse under hard acceleration.
It is also apparent in 4th
Around town and in lower gears it feels fine.
Reading up here people suggest the fuel filter.
I have changed it for one I had which is not bosch but the fault is the same.
I had a poke at the egr but I guess you have to remove the manifold as well to try and clean it.
The are no obvious fault lights
Does anyone have any suggestions
I am due to drive to Austria in a couple of weeks.
Alternatively any recommendations for someone to fix it plus possibly re map ideally located in south London
Many thanks
 
If on 4-5 or 6 gear at good push on pedal revs rise quick but speed rises slowly= clutch skidding.
 
No it feels like no fuel.
Massive hesitation in acceleration.

I have only just read up on the timing chain issues for an 04 ctdi.
Guess mine is ready to fail at this mileage
 
If it's lack of fuel it would be problem at high revs at any gear where fuel consumption is high.
Yes timing chain is common issue for that engine but not related with performance, just rattle/noise...
 
The timing chain have nothing to do with power loss excetp if the engine is out of phase because chain "skiped" one tooth but before that happen you shold be able to hear the chain rattle which is common because of wear.
You shoud connect it to an tester and check the parameters
 
Thanks.
I realise that the chain is a different issue. How likely is it to fail?

The problem is the loss of power
I guess it's electrical.
Will a diagnostic find a fault if there are no lights up ?
 
Needs a proper diagnostic, could be leaking egr or a boost issue.

I'm in london early next week, drop me a line for details.
 
Sichedelic said:
Thanks.
I realise that the chain is a different issue. How likely is it to fail?

The problem is the loss of power
I guess it's electrical.
Will a diagnostic find a fault if there are no lights up ?
Click to expand...
Keep an ear out for how the chains sound. If they get noisy, then they'll need doing pronto.

Best thing you can do in the meantime is to ensure it gets oil changes every 6000 miles.
 
The chains sound ok to me.
I think I will change the oil though.
Didn't realise it is such an issue.
Best keep an ear out
 
I don't think you can rule out fuel filter until you have a Bosch fitted.
 
Change the fuel filter (Bosch is a must)
Mine when I was putting my foot to the floor was starting to shake an going to a stop with the EML on.
Changed the fuel filter to a Bosch one,as before was a noname and everything is running smooth.
 
maybe i will change it for a second time but the fault is the same before and after the filter change.
Both the old and new are non genuine though.
I think i need a diagnostic.
am tempted to get a throttle position sensor as it is cheap and easy, but i doubt it is the problem.
Turbo veins sticking appears to be a possibility too
 
If you haven't put a genuine Honda fuel filter on it then definitly the first thing to try.
These are very sensitive/fussy on fuel filters and so many similar threads on here fixed by simply fitting a genuine one. People are sometimes reluctant as the one they have is new, so they look elsewhere for the problem first.
For 30 quid I personally wouldn't look elsewhere until you've tried that.
 
Yes I would agree regarding the filter, I've just read the post properly.

A non genuine or blocked filter will give all sorts of weird running issues and especially a loss of power.
 
Thanks for the advise
I have ordered a bosch filter but wont get to fit it until next weekend.
should have used a genuine one before as it is not a 5 min job.

Is it worth me trying to clean the egr valve?
I guess you remove the manifold it sits on with the actuator on top
Do I need to replace the gaskets if I do this and is there any point as it looks like an awkward job

would still like to get a diagnosis if you think it is worth it F6had and you are in london
 
If you do, get F6had to remap it and permanantly block off the egr while he's there. You won't regret it
 
Having read a bit more on this site i now realise that there must be a leak from the exhaust manifold
I had noticed fumes in the cabin
sticking my head under the bonet I can smell diesel fumes

Would this be likely to be the cause of the problem ?

if so how serious is it,
do I need to replace the manifold asap or could I get away with it until I have time
how difficult are they to replace?

once again many thanks
 
You may well have an exhaust manifold leak but that's not causing your issue. You can try cleaning the egr but it's most likely knackered and not shutting properly, I see it every week.

Replace your filter first and then look at everything else.
 
Hello Guys.
Just an update.
I replaced the filter in the week with a bosch one.
Was hopefull but unfortunately it is still exactly the same.
Accelerating in 4th hard makes it stall (dead spot where it feels like car wont accelerate at all) at 70 then it picks up by 80
5th is worse as it happens at 80 and feels like car is going to stop going until about 87 then it picks up again.
I found that taking my foot off and back down made it pick up but then the dead spot would re appear at a higher speed . I can do this 2x in a row and have a dead spot at 95 instead.
I have bought a second hand egr off ebay.
Just swapped it out and am going for a spin, whats the chance? guess I may be swapping it back later.
any other ideas.
no warning lights fine otherwise.
I am tempted to try a throttle position sensor as it is cheap.
Where would I buy a genuine egr new?
so I am thinking possibly turbo veins ? not sure about the details.

will update you when I get back
Thanks again
 
Turns out the traffic is gridlocked.
the joy of the south circular.
will have to wait until late to test it
 
See if the egr swap makes any difference at all. It's hard to diagnose a car without seeing it but if you've already bought the egr then it's worth a shot.

If it makes no difference at all then yes sticking turbo vanes or slightly weak turbo actuator most likely causes
 
Hi Fahad
Thanks for getting back to me.
Egr swap makes no difference either.
It was only 44 quid delivered,
the turbo however is a bit expensive.
Not sure what to do now.
Is it worth getting the turbo off to inspect or clean or should i try some sort of diagnostic to confirm first.

I hope its not a terminal fault, as i am unlikly to fix it before driving abroad and am worried it wont make it.
Thanks for your help. Si
 
You can vacuum test the turbo

sent using tapatalk
 
Yes check all the vacuum pipes and boost pipes very carefully at the back of the engine for any splits or leaks.

If your car is the facelift model then you'll notice your egr and turbo solenoids are identical parts only held in by two 10mm bolts. It's worth swapping them over to see if it helps, you might just have a weak solenoid.
 
Good point fahad any vacuum leaks will cause turbo loss although you are more expert in Diesel than I am

sent using tapatalk
 
How does one actually check the turbo? Has anyone here actually installed a manifold pressure gauge?

I'm a bit new to variable vane Turbo units..
 
Not a million miles different from a regular turbo.

Instead of boost being regulated by the waste gate, the actuator does it by adjusting the trim on the blades, effectively like changing the cross sectional area of the exhaust housing.

Due to the nature of diesels, the vanes and their mechanism soot up and the actuator then cant move the arm.

When I bought my car, they were stuck open. It was like having a regular turbo with the wastegate shut, lagged like hell, then went like stink.

You may have some sticking around some point. Removing the actuator will allow you to feel if the arm moves freely, but then again a turbo removal, strip and clean isn't too difficult a job, just fiddly.
 
Thanks for the information.

I was getting a fault code P1237 when towing a caravan under heavy load, secodrey fuel fault. I went through Honda diagnostic procedure with a final out come of turbo failed "replace". However I was not convinced. Over the previous 6-9 months I had noticed that when I started up from a cold there was a burst of exhaust smoke, I put the down to valve stem seals, car was driving well with good MPG.

Whist I had checked all pipes and joints for any sine of leaks many times, including turbo pipes, intercooler, air box I found nothing. Whilst checking the engine bay for the Nth time I got my son to start the engine and blip the throttle. I spotted a small puff of smoke from the back of the engine, not constant. It wasn't until I striped off the heat shield of the exhaust manifold that I found sooty deposits. Striped down fist cat, turbo and finally exhaust manifold and it was then that I found a small crack in one of the manifold weld's. Now replaced manifold, and all gadgets. All seems fixed now including the puff of smoke on cold start.

Hope this is of help to someone else.
 
Sorry, I believe that the engine was over fueling on start up exhaust smoke and when under hevey load P1237.
 
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