What's new

Rear Brakes ... pads and disk replacement

Pickles

Members
Messages
34
Reaction score
0
Location
Hampshire
Car
Accord Tourer 2.2
Cant see any DIY guide on this, I think I need to go out and take a wheel off to check rotor size first? Then that will determine whether it is handbrake or non handbrake calliper. If it is the one with the internal handbrake shoes, given how little wear these should get is there really a need to replace? Any advice or tips welcome.
 

vile

T A Terminator
Staff member
Messages
13,684
Reaction score
163
Location
Bristol
Car
8th gen 2.4 Manual
8th gen has the same rear brake set up as the 7th gen tourer with the separate brake shoes for the handbrake.
Iv replaced both calipers on my car from Euro car parts at around £80 per side.
 

Pickles

Members
Messages
34
Reaction score
0
Location
Hampshire
Car
Accord Tourer 2.2
brett said:
8th gen has the same rear brake set up as the 7th gen tourer with the separate brake shoes for the handbrake.
Iv replaced both calipers on my car from Euro car parts at around £80 per side.
Apart from leaving the handbrake off and chocking the wheels to stop the vehicle moving is there anything else I need to do to get the combined disk/drum off?
 

apintofmild

Members
Messages
902
Reaction score
179
Location
Yorkshire
Car
Golf GTD
If you're in a tourer you have shoes for the handbrake. They should only ever come into contact with a stationary drum and are unlikely to wear. Unless the handbrake causing you any problems I wouldn't bother changing the shoes.

Are you disks worn? I'm at >100K miles and mine are still in spec (there is a small lip) so I can't say how easy it is to get the disk / drum off over the shoes. From what I've seen it will likely be very similar to the 7th Gen ( http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/6607-tourer-rear-brake-change/ )

I've fitted two lots of rear pads to mine in the time I've had it. If you've done brakes before they should present few problems. If you get genuine pads they come with anti rattle shims and a little sachet of paste. The pistons just push in, rather than wind in, so no special tools required (possibly a G clamp).

Whilst you're at it I'd carefully remove the boots and sliders clean and regrease. It only adds a few minutes to the job and reduces the chances of everything seizing up.
 

apintofmild

Members
Messages
902
Reaction score
179
Location
Yorkshire
Car
Golf GTD
P.S. It seems a while since we've had any new DIYs, @Pickles perhaps you could document the process ;)
 

Pickles

Members
Messages
34
Reaction score
0
Location
Hampshire
Car
Accord Tourer 2.2
Thanks Matt, I've done fronts disks and pads before on my old 06 plate Accord saloon, and also changed the front pads on my 13 plate Accord Tourer and father in laws front pads Fiesta as well as numerous old vehicles that I owned back in the 80s, so hoping this won't be too problematic. I will try and take some photos and if I get time do a very brief write up.
 

Grayedout

Members
Messages
454
Reaction score
82
Location
Derbyshire
Car
2004 Accord 2.2
Replaced front and rear pads on a 2004 Tourer in the last couple of weeks and very simple and standard job.

I found the rear pads were a tight fit but the previous ones were the same so ***umed it to be correct.
 

vile

T A Terminator
Staff member
Messages
13,684
Reaction score
163
Location
Bristol
Car
8th gen 2.4 Manual
You say you have the tourer in the 8th gen.
In that case you won’t have the handbrake shoes and will be pads that do both like the 7th gen saloon.
For some reason Honda swapped the break system around.
 

apintofmild

Members
Messages
902
Reaction score
179
Location
Yorkshire
Car
Golf GTD
@Greyedout I learnt the hard way on both my 7th and 8th gen tourer rear pads to lightly file the paint from the contact points to prevent binding. If the pads aren't free to move they wear away in no time. And thats with genuine pads...
 

apintofmild

Members
Messages
902
Reaction score
179
Location
Yorkshire
Car
Golf GTD
@Brett, you were right the first time. The 7th and 8th tourer has shoes for the handbrake.

Double check Matt as I’m 99% that the tourer in the 8th gen has no mini break shoes and Honda put them in the saloon like mine instead.
 

Grayedout

Members
Messages
454
Reaction score
82
Location
Derbyshire
Car
2004 Accord 2.2
Matt said:
@Greyedout I learnt the hard way on both my 7th and 8th gen tourer rear pads to lightly file the paint from the contact points to prevent binding. If the pads aren't free to move they wear away in no time. And thats with genuine pads...
I did that with the previous set but when the new ones were also tight I thought that must be how it should be.

Will review them in a couple of months and then file if needed.
 

vile

T A Terminator
Staff member
Messages
13,684
Reaction score
163
Location
Bristol
Car
8th gen 2.4 Manual
Just checked on lings and indeed the tourer States handbrake shoes.
Can members with 8th gen tourers confirm this.
 

smokingman

Members
Messages
200
Reaction score
27
Location
Lincoln
Car
Accord Tourer 2008/9
Hi Brett.

I can confirm that the Tourer indeed has handbrake shoes, checked all mine earlier in the summer.
 

vile

T A Terminator
Staff member
Messages
13,684
Reaction score
163
Location
Bristol
Car
8th gen 2.4 Manual
smokingman said:
Hi Brett.

I can confirm that the Tourer indeed has handbrake shoes, checked all mine earlier in the summer.
Cheers bud so all 8th gens must have the same setup now
 

shaun75

Members
Messages
113
Reaction score
7
Location
Warrington
Car
Honda Accord iDtec
You need to remove the stainless shims & clean all the crap off them. They just lightly clip out. There is no need to file the pads.

Yes all tourers 7 & 8 have brake shoes for the handbrake.
 

Pickles

Members
Messages
34
Reaction score
0
Location
Hampshire
Car
Accord Tourer 2.2
13 plate Accord tourer diesel 2.2 Have just been out this afternoon and fitted new pads and disks. Definitely have handbrake shoes under, you need the 305 diameter disks. Matt I know you asked if I would do a write up but the light was very poor so taking pictures was out of the question.

The right hand side centre of the disk still seems to be getting hotter than the left not sure if the calliper is binding or whether there is some other issue, can't hear the wheel bearing grumbling probably have to take it all apart again. Anyone have any thoughts as to what this might be?

I now need to adjust the handbrake can anyone advise how to do that? I will check through other threads as well, but if anyone can point me in the direction would be appreciated.
 

shaun75

Members
Messages
113
Reaction score
7
Location
Warrington
Car
Honda Accord iDtec
Remove them stainless shims on the cast carrier & clean.

The adjuster is around 12 o'clock best adjusted while the disk is off.

With plenty light & good eye angle you will see the cog wheel adjuster through the black grommet hole use a medium flat blade screwdriver & rotate till you feel it bind then back off one click. Practice with the disk off 1st.

Good luck I've owned these cars for 8 years now aa a taxi & know the rear brakes well
 

Pickles

Members
Messages
34
Reaction score
0
Location
Hampshire
Car
Accord Tourer 2.2
Looks like I'm taking it all apart again tomorrow (weather permitting). Will be well practised and thanks for the advice.
 

csak1981

Members
Messages
101
Reaction score
14
Location
Scotland
Car
Accord Tourer 8th Ge
I replaced my rear pads today going by the workshop manual on my pc. It says that the stainless steel retainer clips that pads slide on are different top and bottom. I did the right side first and noticed that they are indeed different the one at the top had two holes in it and has rippled surface not flat which gives it a springing effect. The bottom one had no holes and a flat surface which keeps it tight against the caliper.

However when i did the left side they were the other way around so looks like whoever changed pads last time has mixed them up and i don't know which way is correct. Going by the honda parts catalogue the clips look the same top and bottom.

Anybody know which is the correct orientation?
Cheers
 

csak1981

Members
Messages
101
Reaction score
14
Location
Scotland
Car
Accord Tourer 8th Ge
Actually revisited the workshop manual and the one with the holes goes to the bottom.

And just to keep everybody informed going by the parts catalogue the slider pins look different. The pin with the flat sides go to the top and pin without flats to the bottom
 

apintofmild

Members
Messages
902
Reaction score
179
Location
Yorkshire
Car
Golf GTD
For what it's worth (very little!) the replacement slider pins I fitted to my 7th Gen some time ago both had flats on, but the originals were one flat / one round. The flats / no flats didn't have a noticeable effect when everything was back together. There must be a reason they leave the factory this way though.

https://jumpshare.com/v/yJADK2mcmAyOdwrVTosU?b=BeWHD7OnJYhyV465pCFH
 

csak1981

Members
Messages
101
Reaction score
14
Location
Scotland
Car
Accord Tourer 8th Ge
Yep I'm pretty sure i noticed mine both had the flats also. Good right up there I'm sure it's more or less the same for 8th gen
 

Pickles

Members
Messages
34
Reaction score
0
Location
Hampshire
Car
Accord Tourer 2.2
I removed mine one at a time and replaced them from where they came. Still haven't cured the issue that the rear right gets hotter than the other side. It can only be a sticky calliper? If replacing this do I need to have new washers for the banjo bolt or will I get away without replacing?
 

csak1981

Members
Messages
101
Reaction score
14
Location
Scotland
Car
Accord Tourer 8th Ge
Could be the handbrake shoes need backed off slightly on the hotter side. Through the little hole behind the rubber bung on the face of the drum. Rotate drum so hole is at roughly 12 o'clock and pull handbrake a click at a time until you feel wheel start to get stiff and then rotate the teeth on the adjuster through the hole with a flat blade screwdriver.
Can't remember which way it needs too adjust to loosen tho.
 

csak1981

Members
Messages
101
Reaction score
14
Location
Scotland
Car
Accord Tourer 8th Ge
Mine is adjusted so that with handbrake off wheels spin freely and on 3rd click i start to feel the shoes grab and by the 5th click its really hard to spin hub and by the 6th click hub can't be spun
 

Pickles

Members
Messages
34
Reaction score
0
Location
Hampshire
Car
Accord Tourer 2.2
csak1981 said:
Mine is adjusted so that with handbrake off wheels spin freely and on 3rd click i start to feel the shoes grab and by the 5th click its really hard to spin hub and by the 6th click hub can't be spun
I will try and find time to look at that, however I only recently started to notice (after three years of ownership) a hot smell from the back righthand side so would have been surprised if it was down to the hand brake, hence my thought of it being a calliper.
 

csak1981

Members
Messages
101
Reaction score
14
Location
Scotland
Car
Accord Tourer 8th Ge
If the handbrake shoes are rubbing then on a bit of a long run the entire disk will heat up. But sticking slider pins or a sticking piston would cause caliper to heat up.

I had problems with squealing on my fronts when almost at a stop even after cleaning and re-lubing it would come back after a while. I also noticed once stopped when taking foot off pedal Ian's car was on slightest incline i could actually hear the pads sticking and feel a faint grumbling noise through the floor when they were releasing very slowly. I used silicone grease for the pins and ceratec for the pads which would be fine for around a month but would just wash off.

I've since came across proslip product which comes with 3 different products in there own separate tubes 12 pounds roughly on Amazon.

There is one tube used for slider pins one for where the pads touch the caliper and tube for where the piston and caliper touch the back of the pads.

There are videos on you tube where the guy explains why 3 different greases are required for the 3 areas of the brakes.

So far all the problems i was having are gone, at first i thought it was a sticking piston but looks like it was the movement of the slider pins and pads them self not releasing that was the problem. Just make sure you put the same amount of lube on each slider pin.
 

shaun75

Members
Messages
113
Reaction score
7
Location
Warrington
Car
Honda Accord iDtec
I always thought the flats on the pins were there to help prevent them seizing in the cast carrier & to allow for more lube to left in there?

The shims I'll take a look at next time but since I started cleaning them over 7 years ago now I've never had a problem.

The fronts tend to squeal after 60% wear & then its intermittent but annoying, all cars suffer the same issues has the lube drys out.
 

Pickles

Members
Messages
34
Reaction score
0
Location
Hampshire
Car
Accord Tourer 2.2
csak1981 said:
If the handbrake shoes are rubbing then on a bit of a long run the entire disk will heat up. But sticking slider pins or a sticking piston would cause caliper to heat up.
Haven't had time today and at work tomorrow so will be out in the dark trying to do my best to sort it out, have ordered a new calliper as well, I must admit to being a bit peeved with this having already had it all apart twice ... cleaned everything up, fitted shiny new shims and greased everything, I even adjusted the handbrake adjuster whilst the drum was off. Could there be the chance that the handbrake mechanism isn't realising? and is there a way to check.
 
Top