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Rear Brakes

grentuu

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Bolton
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Accord SE Executive
Hi guys.

Two years ago I had the rear discs and pads changed. 12 months ago during the MOT the brake line to the rear burst and was replaced.

Two weeks ago I noticed a thudding on braking. On stopping and checking both rear discs are rusted, it looks like both calipers have seized.

Is it usual for both calipers to seize simultaneously? BTW, front brakes are working fine.

Can anyone point me in the right direction of a supplier for calipers/discs/pads where I will get a decent deal?

Car is W reg Accord 2.0i SE Exec auto.

Thank-you.
 
Cliffordski said:
Brakes International. But you could try freeing everything up / lubricating the sliders first.
Thanks Cliff, just spoke to local Brakes International. He said he would put the car on the lottery that the calipers hadn't seized and that it was the sliders.

Do you have a link for a how to?

Thanks again.
 
With the car safely jacked up and on axle stands (Safety is number one priority!) it's a pretty straightforward job.

Calliper is held on with 2*12mm bolts, as is the carrier - 14mm. The bolts are threadlocked though, so may take some effort to break them free.

Once you've got the calliper off, the pads can be prised out of the carrier and the carrier removed. If you need to, the discs can be removed after taking out the retaining screw (large-head phillips screw). If they are stuck a couple of taps with a hammer from the back of the disc while you rotate it will wiggle it off the hub evenly.

The carrier has 2 pins that the calliper bolts into with rubber boots sealing between the pin and the carrier. These can tear and let in water which rusts them and gives the trouble. I found spare bits here.

Clean the rust off all parts with a wire brush (eye protection & dust mask advisable) and protect with paint if you like
20160430_192344_zps5c8xzl7d.jpg


Reassemble the carrier with new pins, grease & boots and put everything back together. The calliper piston needs to be wound back in - loosen the brake fluid reservior cap to allow the fluid to push back up easily. Then fit the pads and slip the calliper around them.


Hope this helps and makes sense! Although I've just found https://youtu.be/khW8LENJ4Hk on YouTube which pretty much sums it up
 
ChrisC78 said:
With the car safely jacked up and on axle stands (Safety is number one priority!) it's a pretty straightforward job.

Calliper is held on with 2*12mm bolts, as is the carrier - 14mm. The bolts are threadlocked though, so may take some effort to break them free.

Once you've got the calliper off, the pads can be prised out of the carrier and the carrier removed. If you need to, the discs can be removed after taking out the retaining screw (large-head phillips screw). If they are stuck a couple of taps with a hammer from the back of the disc while you rotate it will wiggle it off the hub evenly.

The carrier has 2 pins that the calliper bolts into with rubber boots sealing between the pin and the carrier. These can tear and let in water which rusts them and gives the trouble. I found spare bits here.

Clean the rust off all parts with a wire brush (eye protection & dust mask advisable) and protect with paint if you like
20160430_192344_zps5c8xzl7d.jpg


Reassemble the carrier with new pins, grease & boots and put everything back together. The calliper piston needs to be wound back in - loosen the brake fluid reservior cap to allow the fluid to push back up easily. Then fit the pads and slip the calliper around them.


Hope this helps and makes sense! Although I've just found https://youtu.be/khW8LENJ4Hk on YouTube which pretty much sums it up
Thank you so much. I've been and bought a slider kit so hopefully all will go well. Just hoping I can undo the bolts without the need for heat!

thank you again.
 
Thanks guys. The sliders were locked tight. Bought a new set from Brakes International and all is working well again.

thanks all.
 
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