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Rear Caliper L/R

Drejc112

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Hi
My right side rear caliper is stuck , pads were gone in few thousand kilometers, left side is like new.
Today i tested the piston , pushed it in with the tool and pushed the brakes , piston got stuck again. It does it every time, i looked at the piston and it was a little coroded, rubber was broke too, got a little split in it.

Soo ill get a replacement, i have found rear left OEM caliper, its is the left side part number, but my question is , can this part be used on the right side too, it has two places for the bleeder, left and right side.
Part nr. 43019-t0a-a02

the number 19 means left side , 18 would be for right side.
 

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stellamon

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I had a badly binding rear caliper last summer. I ordered a caliper service kit. Removed the piston and found some blistering of the chrome so rubbed it
down with fine wet n dry, applied red rubber grease and fitted new seals. Been fine since.

 

edgeoftime

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Maybe the lines need changing? when I had the same problem on my 7th gen we got rebuilt calipers from BIG RED, new pads from IBC, and new lines, never had the problem again.
 

Drejc112

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Thanks for the advice, but can caliper be used on left or right side ?
I can get it for 80€, new and original
 

smokingman

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From what I remember when I changed mine, the mounting for the main hose can be mounted either way left or right sided just that the port for the bleed valve is different (mine had not been drilled and plugged like this one) and may foul the hose or make it difficult to bleed. Other than that they seemed identical.
 

stellamon

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If you put a caliper on the wrong side it would be upside down, so the brake pipe connector would not be in the correct position
 

SayamaAccord

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Try Brakes International for a Budweg refurbished one, they use OEM parts and you send them your old one to get your deposit back, but don't get a Budweg new caliper, they are not OEM.
 

smokingman

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Stellamon, the pipe connector will accept the pipe either way, as the locating lugs form a + look closely by the red plug in the LH picture.
 

antdad

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It looks to be useable either side plus as you say you can swap over the bleed nipple to suit.

You've done most of the hardwork by removing it and diagnosing exactly what the problem is, you now just need to spend ten minutes removing all the corrosion from the piston and the bore with some emery cloth or similar and replacing the rubber. From your description I'd be reasonably certain of not needing to need replace with a new caliper and carrier imo.
 
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antdad

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There''ll be piston seals that'll come with the seal kit. I'm sure you already know but when you press the piston back into the bore use some lube in the bore and or on the seal, you can use brake fluid.
 

Drejc112

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I havent got the kit yet, but i took out the piston just to see how bad is it with the corrosion on the piston, i would say its one fifth of corroded area , tryed to sand it down with P1000 sand paper but it is not smooth where the corrosion is, the square seal was full of rust too, inside of the caliper was ok.. So I cleaned the seal , and all the rust where the seal goes in, lube the seal and edges of the piston, put it together, caliper still does not release the disk, it is hard to turn the wheel with hands.
Now i dont know if i should be buying new piston too, this one has too much corrosion on it i belive...
 

stellamon

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antdad

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The piston and bore need to be smooth so perhaps try using a fine metal file lightly to remove the lumps and bumps of the corroded areas. Post a pic of the piston and bore to see if they're worth saving, most can be.
 

Drejc112

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Will doo, just need to get the repair kit first and than ill take the piston out again....
 

Bounder

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I am amazed at how the brake seals manage to contain fluid even on very pitted pistons.
One thing that I do is to take the bare caliper with no rubber and heat it with a blowtorch, and let it cool.
This usually allows the corrosion and horrible sweaty brake fluid to dry off and its then very easy to clean with a small wire wheel on a dremel type tool.
Once the seal recess is clean and dry pack it with red rubber grease and refit the seal.
This prevents corrosion from being able to start behind the seal which causes binding as the seal grips the piston too hard for it to release.
There are other greases that are suitable for brake pistons, Wurth make a good one as well, but I have a large tub of RRG and its going to take me a long time to finish it.
 

Drejc112

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Some good points there from all of you, makes me more confident in what ill do to the piston , i have a small lathe for wood, ill use it to spin the piston and do a polish on it. Think thats how it will go and should go :)
 

Drejc112

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why cant attach a photo, it says too large, and I shrink it to the smallest size I could with the phone...
 

stellamon

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Just been experimenting and I managed to upload an image from my laptop only when the file size was below 100Kb.
20190209_151645.jpg
 

Drejc112

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I cant do less than 800kb from my phone, will get the pictures on the pc and than try to make them smaller.
By the way, those are one of the lightest rims i have had, shame i had to sell them with previous car...
 

Drejc112

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This is how it looks , but i did not use the old piston, bought a new one and new set of rubber seals... its still hard to turn the wheels on hand , both wheels, i did change the discs and pads after I refurbished the caliper...
what do you think i should do next?
when i did a test drive , both rear discs heated very hot, front was almost cool..
 

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stellamon

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That doesn't sound good. Did you grease the new pistons before fitting? Did you also service and grease the glide/slider pins?
 

csak1981

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Could be the brake lines, the rubber ones in the wheel well that connect to the calipers maybe they are past it and they are swelling so not releasing their pressure
 

stellamon

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Are you sure the new discs were the correct diameter, there are 2 sizes
 

Drejc112

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Could be the brake lines, the rubber ones in the wheel well that connect to the calipers maybe they are past it and they are swelling so not releasing their pressure
i guess thats the last thing i can change. It is just strange how both rear are hard to turn, first i had a problem with right rear one, it was always getting hot, left rear wasnt hot , now when i changed the pads and discs they are hot left and right
 
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