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Removing AC completely

beneverard

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2.2 CDTI
Hi all,

This might sound a bit strange, but I'd like a little opinion/input from you all.

My AC isn't working all that well and honestly I'm not bothered about fixing it. My car (54 2.2 CDTI tourer) is just reaching 200,000 miles and the amount of work needed to keep it alive is increasing somewhat.

There's loads of AC related pipework and components in the engine bay that are currently useless, and I like the idea of removing it all so working within the engine bay is easier.

I've already seen some posts about removing the AC compressor and using a shorter belt to compensate, and I know I'd have to get the AC system emptied by a professional.

My question is, is this a bad idea? Anything that I perhaps should be concerned about in doing this?

Thanks :)
 
What is wrong with the existing A/C ?

Electrical (relays/matrix controls ) ?

Mechanical (Pulleys/belts/compressor/clutch/radiator) ?

Fluids (radiator / matrix / piping / venting /empty ) ?

Transfers (cabin filters/air vents) ?

When was it last working ?
 
Ah cool Graham, good to know!

Hi Stephen, I think it's the radiator... but as I mentioned I don't care about getting it working again. This car is more of a run-around (taking crap to the tip, etc), I'm more wondering if there was a solid reason for me to not remove AC parts from the engine bay so it's easier to work on the rest of the car.
 
There could be a weight saving of course, better economy, and passing the old kit onto somebody else.

When I replaced the VSA module I don't recall anything that couldn't be moved out the way, will removal really give you room to work on important things ?

My only reluctance would be the multitude of brackets under the bonnet that might serve a dual purpose (is the radiator piggybacking onto something else, or does the compressor , belts and pulleys have a second function) ?

A/c is fitted to all type VII variants in the world ? If not then have a look at the engine bay exploded diagram for one that doesn't have it.
 
Hi Ben

I managed to repair my AC by replacing the condenser, it was badly corroded anyway so I took a semi - educated punt. Replaced the seals, filled it with the right amount of lube and got it recharged and it seems to have held.

I did however come across an AC diagnosis service provided by Halfords Auto Centre for £40 which I thought was OK value, for that they'll diagnose what's wrong and do a leak test.

https://www.halfordsautocentres.com/air-conditioning/air-con-pre-inspection-service.

Of course it's up to you whether you take them up on the repairs but if you have one nearby it might be worth a punt especially as the weather seems to be getting hotter, fine if you have a sunroof but as I don't I needed to fix mine.
 
It’s only worth removing if you want to gain something from it, otherwise it’s not worth the time and effort to do. If it’s not working there’s no harm in keeping it in. But if however your doing it from a performance point of view i.e weight saving, less load on engine, cleaner bay etc then go to town. Remove the ac pump, condenser, ac lines that go through the firewall and if you want to go full tilt remove the dash and take out the ac evap unit.

Of course if you do this you’ll need a shorter auxiliary belt to compensate for the lack of ac pump pulley.
 
The only benefit I see there is no more than a few kilograms of weight saving. The condenser and the compressor are roughly 10kg together.
If you would remove the condenser you would not gain much usable space, due to it's location. However, you would have better airflow to the fan and radiator.
On the downside you would expose your radiator to stone chips and you would need to install a grille or mesh to protect it. (I have done this anyway, to protect the condenser in front of it.)
By removing the compressor you get some usable space, which comes handy when changing the (shorter!) serpentine belt.
The removal of those few AC pipes should be easy, but again... nothing much gained from it.
To remove the evaporator you would need to remove the dashboard, I would not recommend doing this.
I'd say: leave it as it is. :)
 
Hi all, I know I am a bit late to this post but here goes - I have 2005 2.4 auto exec tourer, air con stopped working around 2 years ago - took it to my local air con service centre to get it re-gassed - they said compressor was not working, ( I asked them for a price to get it working again but am still waiting for them to contact me !! ) they emptied the system and since then I have developed a horrible rattle ! into my local garage to find what it is - alternator sent away and fully checked out and it is fully working, mechanic said it was definitely a pulley related rattle ***ociated with the serpentine belt - but could not exactly pinpoint what the cause was, told me to " let it develop " been like this for about 300 miles now but still no worse or no better, I would love to get it sorted - BUT I think it would be very expensive and uneconomic, my car has a sunroof also - So I would like to take a punt and fit a shorter serpentine belt and bypass the compressor completely - Can anyone tell me what belt would be needed ? nobody seems to be able to tell me !!!!!!!!! Can anyone on here offer any help or advice please ! I love my car and have owned it since 2008 - This seems the most financially sensible option - if it works ! Any advice very welcome - I don`t want to wait until it " fails " because it could cause a lot more damage !

Thanks in advance
 
I would heed the advice in the post above yours.

My aircon hasn't worked for six years but everything is still fitted including the excessively long belt.

I have noticed a rattle in the past few days (that always goes out before I open the bonnet, then remains quiet until closed).
Soon I will catch it and deal with the fallout then, there is another injector seal and other bits to deal with beforehand
 
My rattle is there constantly with bonnet open or closed, I am happy to leave all the ***ociated parts on the car - I just want to bypass the compressor as that is what I believe the rattle to be. it started shortly after they drained the air-con system of refrigerant and discovered that the compressor was faulty ( not activating ) so I don`t have a problem leaving all the original parts in place, its annoying and worrying in case something in that area fails ! Apart from this problem my car drives like a dream, does`n`t burn any oil or anything - I trust my car totally with this one exception ! I just want to fit a shorter belt - but nobody seems to know which belt is needed - it seems a number of people have fitted a smaller belt without any problems, but it is like it is some kind of secret !
If anyone has ANY idea, please let me know - its driving me crazy !
 
Hi Channel Hopper, sorry for the delayed reply, I recorded a short video of the problem but I could not work out how to upload it to this site - However, I consulted an RAC patrolman near me and he pointed the problem, it is the Tensioner Drivebelt Pulley ( non ribbed ) I have bought the Honda ( Pulley Comp., Idler ) part No. 31180-PNA-003 for £34 from my local parts supplier and its being fitted by a local mechanic on Friday it is NOT the full Tensioner ***y., AUTO No. 31179-RAA-01 so I will let you know the outcome when its done - I just hope it is NOT the full ***embly, fingers crossed ! How the original mechanic missed it the first time around I don`t know because he had the belt off and the alternator off and I took it to the specialist and had it checked - had it not been OK he could have re-furbed it for not a lot of money and I must admit mine was VERY noisy !!
Anyway I will let you know next week how it has gone - you can bet the bloody alternator bearing will go bad next !!!!
 
Just to add - if this works I don`t actually NEED the shorter belt but if I can find out which one it is I will do it anyway !
 
Update - new pulley fitted - Not the problem, turns out it`s the Alternator after all ( the one that was checked by specialist and told it was OK ) SO I now have a new pulley cost £34 and just bought re-con Lucas alternator cost £155 AND the mechanic found the size of the shorter belt so bought that
as well cost £18 the belt is a Continental CONTITECH 7PK 1605 ID 30662 for anyone else that needs one, I am hoping to get them fitted tomorrow so will let you know how it goes - :) I will keep the original belt in case I decide to get a replacement A/C compressor at some point - and fingers crossed that should solve my rattle problem and back to fully functioning trusty car again - Watch this space !
 
Further update - its NOT the Alternator !!!!!!!!! its the water pump ! can not get one till Tuesday next week - will post on result !!
 
I may have been a bit hasty then.

I eliminated the pullies and AC from the equation, and came up with the alternator. I did not consider checking elsewhere, though upon reflection (and having recently fitted a new thermostat to attempt getting the heating to work - no change), I may have the same issue.

Stupidly I also araldited the outer cover shut as only one bolt was keeping it watertight.

Would a 2.2 i-ctdi run for years without a functioning waterpump though ?
 
Hi, the mechanic removed the belt and showed me the water pump pulley that when spinning it was noisy/rattled and you could actually feel it was the bearings - so ! alternator and shorter belt returned and they refunded me, which was good of them.
when listening to the alternator with a long screwdriver, it sounded really noisy - noise was transfered through the engine so it sounded as if that was the problem - anyway the water pump should arrive tomorrow so we will see ! I am also having him do an oil ( PETRONAS fully synthetic ) and filter change since he already has the car - I only ever use top quality oil, its very expensive but worth it !
I will post update when its fitted .
 
Hi, mine sounded similar but much worse - got the water pump this morning, mechanic striped the old one off - wrong pump - returned and refunded - could not get another till Thursday, ordered one from Honda - twice the price ! but will be ready for collection tomorrow ! This is turning out a nightmare BUT when its done - its done - will let you know. how did you upload to youtube ?
 
Hi, Yes it was the water pump, I now have a quiet drive again - £164 from Honda, one listed on eBay for around £48 - looks the same but if it was wrong its just wasting time again returning it etc., so bit the bullet and done !!!! If I could have waited I would have give the cheaper one a go - but there again thinking about the price difference, it does seem VERY cheap so is it worth the gamble risking the engine ? Also he did an oil and filter change - I provided both ( PETRONAS Syntium 7000 fully synthetic ) I have always used best oil - expensive but worth it to look after your engine ! total cost for everything and all the messing about £100, I dread to think what Honda would have charged !!!!
Anyway good luck with yours and I hope I have helped a little.
 
Thanks for confirming.

Looking at the access it seems I have to reove the alternator to get to the area where the pump sits (which I really dont want to do as the belt and tensioners have been in place as long as I have had the car)

Can you confirm before I bite the bullet ?

The noise does appear to change hourly btw. sometimes staying absolutely quiet for a day or so, then starting up again. There is no real pattern.

I've drained the coolant out for the time being and filled with potable water to flush as much of the corrosion out of the pipework before doing anything major,
A trip of abouut 100 miles on Thursday was uneventful (except at the beginning where the temperature dial went beyond half way, turned out to be an airlock that I bled out enroute).

I think the new thermostat is working as the gauge now moves within about three miles of driving, still no hot air from the matrix however.
 
Hi, the alternator does NOT have to come off - the Serpentine belt does ! Its a pretty straightforward job to be honest, just a bit fiddly - there are a number of good videos on youtube - the worst bit I think was having to remove the plastic undertray and small plastic cover near the drivers side front wheel, as I said I personally did not carry out the work as I am not fit enough these days - having said that the mechanic that did the work is 70 years old so its certainly doable - check the videos, my air con is not working and I knew that anyway - Again not a big job but a replacement compressor is expensive and I did not want to spend that much BUT having said that I might make some enquiries re. having the compressor refurbished - new compressor around £200 + £60 re-gas + cost for mechanic around £80 total around £340 just in case the weather gets hot - not worth it in my opinion
 
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